[ramptgt]

Hi.

One week ago washed the engine with a Karcher, there were only dust on it but the camshaft got a lot of mug as you know and spread a bit more of water on it, the rest of the engine was cleaned "fast". The car was parked until yesterday, I did a short trip, like 2 miles, turned off the engine and when I tried to start it again I couldn´t, it was death, did the key jiggle and got those codes. Waited a few minutes and the engine started again, when I was in my home tried again after 30 minutes and worked fine, turned off and tried to restart it and failed again and the codes remain.

Unplugged the camshaft sensor and cleaned it but the problem persists.

My question is if it is possible that both sensors got damaged or even worst the PCM (I spread a little of water over the PCM but it is not the first time I washed the engine)?

Thanks

 

[retro_1850]

The PCM and most wiring connectors, if fully seated and locked in place, are water resistant when exposed to intermittent spray. However, the use of a pressure washer stream on electrical connectors is always a bad idea.


Because the cam sensor was involved with direct water spray, that's more likely the one with the issue.
However, both the presence of voltage and ground should be checked with a volt meter for both the crank and cam circuits.

The cam sensor and crank sensor do NOT share the same +5v sensor power or the same sensor grounds. So testing one connector doesn't test the other.

Cam and TIP sensors share the same +5v power supply [VT/WT wire] (C1 PCM connector) and sensor grounds [BR/YL wire](C3 PCM connector). Cam sensor is easy to get at for this test. With Key On, Engine Off , unplug cam sensor 3-wire connector near the valve cover and check voltage between pin 1 and pin 2. Pin 1 is 5 volt side and pin 2 is the ground.

This will confirm presence of +5v power from the PCM for the C1 connector and a ground from the PCM for the C3 connector. If there is power and a ground at the connector, a cam fault would likely be the cam sensor and/or the sensor magnet.

If there is no +5 volt power at a connector, retest for voltage at pin 1 but using a body or battery grounding point rather than pin 2. If pin 1 shows +5v this time, then there is a sensor ground problem on this circuit.

The only way to test the sensor directly would be with a dealer scan tool or an oscilloscope. I assume these are not available options.

Replacing the sensor and magnet would be the next step. When replacing sensors, make sure the battery ground cable is removed as a first step.


The Crank, MAP, TPS and Vehicle speed sensors share another +5v sensor power supply and sensor ground (both in the C2 PCM connector). The +5V is an Orange wire at each connector (pin 1) and the sensor ground is the BK/LB wire at each connector (pin 2).

With Key On, Engine Off , unplug one 3-wire connector (the MAP sensor on the intake manifold is the easiest to get at) to check voltage between pin 1 and pin 2. This will confirm presence of +5v power and a ground from the PCM for the C2 connector.

Again, if there is no +5 volt power at a connector, retest for voltage at pin 1 but using a body or battery grounding point rather than pin 2. If pin 1 shows +5v this time, then there is a sensor ground problem on this circuit.

If there is power and ground at the MAP connector, I would delay changing the crank sensor until you can determine if the new cam sensor/magnet corrects the fault.
Also, replacing the crank sensor is a more difficult process because you have to access it from underneath the front end of the car. The sensor mounting bolt is also partially covered by the starter housing so that makes it a slower job.

 

[ramptgt]

The PCM and most wiring connectors, if fully seated and locked in place, are water resistant when exposed to intermittent spray. However, the use of a pressure washer stream on electrical connectors is always a bad idea.


Because the cam sensor was involved with direct water spray, that's more likely the one with the issue.
However, both the presence of voltage and ground should be checked with a volt meter for both the crank and cam circuits.

The cam sensor and crank sensor do NOT share the same +5v sensor power or the same sensor grounds. So testing one connector doesn't test the other.

Cam and TIP sensors share the same +5v power supply [VT/WT wire] (C1 PCM connector) and sensor grounds [BR/YL wire](C3 PCM connector). Cam sensor is easy to get at for this test. With Key On, Engine Off , unplug cam sensor 3-wire connector near the valve cover and check voltage between pin 1 and pin 2. Pin 1 is 5 volt side and pin 2 is the ground.

This will confirm presence of +5v power from the PCM for the C1 connector and a ground from the PCM for the C3 connector. If there is power and a ground at the connector, a cam fault would likely be the cam sensor and/or the sensor magnet.

If there is no +5 volt power at a connector, retest for voltage at pin 1 but using a body or battery grounding point rather than pin 2. If pin 1 shows +5v this time, then there is a sensor ground problem on this circuit.

The only way to test the sensor directly would be with a dealer scan tool or an oscilloscope. I assume these are not available options.

Replacing the sensor and magnet would be the next step. When replacing sensors, make sure the battery ground cable is removed as a first step.


The Crank, MAP, TPS and Vehicle speed sensors share another +5v sensor power supply and sensor ground (both in the C2 PCM connector). The +5V is an Orange wire at each connector (pin 1) and the sensor ground is the BK/LB wire at each connector (pin 2).

With Key On, Engine Off , unplug one 3-wire connector (the MAP sensor on the intake manifold is the easiest to get at) to check voltage between pin 1 and pin 2. This will confirm presence of +5v power and a ground from the PCM for the C2 connector.

Again, if there is no +5 volt power at a connector, retest for voltage at pin 1 but using a body or battery grounding point rather than pin 2. If pin 1 shows +5v this time, then there is a sensor ground problem on this circuit.

If there is power and ground at the MAP connector, I would delay changing the crank sensor until you can determine if the new cam sensor/magnet corrects the fault.
Also, replacing the crank sensor is a more difficult process because you have to access it from underneath the front end of the car. The sensor mounting bolt is also partially covered by the starter housing so that makes it a slower job.

Thank you for your reply.

Another question about it.

So is it possible that both sensors are damaged but sometimes the engine starts correctly and sometimes is death?

Regards

 

[retro_1850]

When starting the engine, if the crank and cam sensors do not synchronize within about 2 seconds, the ASD (automatic shut down) relay turns off the injector and coil circuitshis , and the engine stops. One sensor, either cam or crank, could cause that shut down.

If one sensor is intermittently bad, this shut down could happen at sometime after the initial start up. That is longer time period than 2 seconds .

 

[ramptgt]

Thank you so much.

Have a good night.