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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
WTF does p0068 mean anyway? I usually have access to a DRBIII or a datalogger but I wont for about a week.

S2
3"TB (no cat)
CAI
NGK's

@ Idle it lopes and misses, it never did this before today.

Car runs liek sh1t. It has been getting worse for two weeks & it came to a head tonight with this code.

The transition to boost is sluggish and the thing surges under load at low RPM mid boost levels.

Under WOT the power delivery is back and forth, it comes on slower than normal and feels like it is pulling mad timing.

Wires are good, coil is good, plugs are at .030 have tried all gaps.

If I throw it in 100+ mode it runs better but it still is shady.
 

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sounds like your plugs have crapped out, nothing visual to indicate when they die on you, your symptoms sound like mine when it happened to me. That will cause a mis sensation. As for a vacuum leak, could be one of many sources. Ever notice how many plastic and rubber vacuum lines touch other things in our engine bay, one of these days all srt-4's will end up with bad vacuum leaks somewhere down the road.
 

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Plugs = #1 suspect

Boost leaks? Or Vac leaks? which system?:)
 

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From here

http://mityvac.com/kits.html#silverlineautomotivekit

Fantastic tool, you can test any vac solenoid, line or actuator. Not to mention its a great brake bleeder, or hydraulic clutch bleeder, only damm thing that would work on the Nighthawks clutch.
 

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I had the same problem with hesitation under boost (when I stepped on it). I regapped my plugs to .040 and the problem seemed to disappear but I also seem to have lost some powere off the line. At the track this Friday, instead of spinning the wheels off the line in first it seemed to bog mildly before it would "wake up" and start hauling ass. Maybe I'll try a new set of plugs or gap them at .045. Any thoughts on this?
 

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You should never have to go below a .035 gap on the SRT. We're not making enough boost to blow out the spark, you gapped @ .030? That's too tight. Best guess for our boosted application around .038-.040 JMO
 

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So, you have checked the intake system for boost leaks, good, but it is possible (but admittedly very unlikely) that you have a vac leak. If you have not changed BOTH plugs and wires first, I would not look to the vac lines yet. My NGKs fixed my problem, but it returnd real quick, the wires were carbon tracked, screwed up the NGKs, replae boh wires and plugs with stock, stock gap, she's been fine since.
 

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Carbon tracking on the porcelin on the cylinder end of the plug. Looks like tiny lightning bolts drawn on insulator with a super fine pencil. Once this happens there is no hope for the sparkplug and it will have to be put down.

By a new set, mine are gapped at .052 and I have no problems at all others set theirs tighter. Try them and use what works for you.
 

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i got the 0068 code my last time at the track. we came up that it possibly was due to my s0 tip sensor still being in. once reset, i ran the run of my life thus far. i noticed the hesitation under any throttle input, but never really tried to drive it once that cel popped up at the end of my 1/4 run.

j.r.:king:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I forgot I had bought 2 sets of NGKs last time I ordered. I pulled the plugs today and compared them to the ones I had in it. (2400 miles)

HOLY CRAP

The NGKs were completely smoked. Check out the picture, it's blurry but you can see hole the electrode has lost all of it's material. The tip is completely ruined and the insulator is trashed. I threw in the new plugs ans reset the PCM.





:thumbsup: All of my problems are gone with the new plugs in gapped to .035. I can actually accelerate in 5th now and the sluggishness it about 95% gone.
I am sure they will last about as long as these did so I am going to switch immediately.

I am going to order some Iridiums tonight, these NGKs are garbage.
 

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I recommend the Denso ITV22 from sparkplugs.com. We set these at a gap of .028 This gives up the best results and fires everytime. Also DO NOT replace the stock coilpack with an aftermarket. I have personally seen this cause issues with breaking up and hesitation. We will make over 800hp with the stock coilpack I garuntee it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ant @ Psi-Fi said:
I recommend the Denso ITV22 from sparkplugs.com. We set these at a gap of .028 This gives up the best results and fires everytime. Also DO NOT replace the stock coilpack with an aftermarket. I have personally seen this cause issues with breaking up and hesitation. We will make over 800hp with the stock coilpack I garuntee it.
are those the same heat range as stock?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ant @ Psi-Fi said:
No they are 2 heat ranges cooler. If you are running over stock boost heck even stock boost I recommend it highly. There have been some REALLY BAD failures with the stock Champ plugs resulting in complete engine damage.
werd, i just ordered a set. 55.62 shipped!
 

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I had code 0068 last week in the highway, when the car was moving I got no problem, but every stop at a toll booth the car made something like this:

http://www.syon.com.mx/Gabriel/VIDEO/ERNIE.MPG

If I turn off the car and then turn it on it goes back to normal, I thought it were the wires or plugs...
Took it to the dealer, changed the plugs, bought Nology wires, and it seemed the problem was fixed, but on saturday the same problem happened
1. Could it be that the dealer didn't gap my plugs to .40???
2. Could I have any leak???

Ernie
 

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ive had that a few times. restart the car = no problems. i never let it get to me. everyone else was tellin me i need new plugs, but it had done that long before they knew & theyre still the same plugs.
again, restart = no problems is why i havent changed the plugs. plus its not like an everyday thing that i get that.

j.r.:king:
 
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