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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok, I just installed my AGP 3147 kit and return line setup.

Prior to this I was running a ported stock turbo on a S1 pcm and S3 injectors, so I used my DTEC to even out fueling.

To get the car up and running, we set the fuel base pressure to 58 psi, and didn't touch the dtec map. The fueling was great for regular driving. Now, when it's time to go WOT, I knew I'd need to use the regulator as a rising rate.

I have a vacuum line running from the compressor housing on the turbo to my mbc, so I T'd off of that and ran a line to the regulator, so I'd get a boost-only reference.

I set the WOT map to 0 across the board, and floored it. The turbo is pushing 16 psi, and by 5k rpm I was already in the 13:1 range on my wideband, so I quickly let off. Did it one more time to check, same results.

I figured the S2/S3 injectors on a return-line setup would support more than that. Did I do something wrong?

I checked my TechGauge after the run, and it read 100% on the injector duty cycle. ouch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
when I prime the fuel pump in the car, and it shuts off after 3-5 seconds, my fuel pressure is dropping back to 0.

Should that happen with an AGP return line?
 

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Run it lean.... we have shortblocks waiting... and cookies..
 

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you should only only be at 12psimax so you can pull some fuel. you need 750's for any big turbo or your not goig to make much power.
 

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If your losing pressure way to quick check to make sure you don't have a leak.

If not its time for bigger injectors :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
blue04intracy said:
you should only only be at 12psimax so you can pull some fuel. you need 750's for any big turbo or your not goig to make much power.
S3's on a return line with boost reference should be more than enough for a 3147 pushing 16 psi.

It's no different than a stage 3 fuel setup, which held 370 whp on my car with fuel to spare.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
RedSRT4Me said:
If your losing pressure way to quick check to make sure you don't have a leak.

If not its time for bigger injectors :thumbsup:

I don't see any external leaks, but I'm thinking I should check the stock regulator and make sure that tiny little O-ring is in place.
 

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did you bypass the stock regulator or not. also you should set up your return line to return back to the canister not the filler neck like agp does. it can cause the pump to starve under high load plus it basicly makes the last 1/4 of a tank of gas useless.
 

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so FP drops Fast?

you have a leak somewhere in your return setup. you should atleast be able to do 18 on the s2 inj.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I did bypass the stock regulator, but I'm thinking it might not have seated correctly when I put it back in. I'll have to check that this weekend.
 

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if your fuel pressure drops to zero after it primes you could have leaking injectors or your Fuel Pressure Regulator is stuck open. If it drops immediately its probably the FPR, if it is slow then injectors...get em cleaned.
 

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I was running my 50 trim at 22psi for a few days when I first got it and the base on the fpr at 58psi... was 10.3 by at redline (without a tune and with the 255 fuel pump). This was before the bottleneck fix or the 650cc inj

It takes about 30 sec to bleed the fuel presh down to 5psi and then it will sit at 5psi for several hrs or an hr or so.

Sound like somthing is wrong
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, solved the issue. Or rather, issues.

#1 - the fuel pump module is keyed to sit in one position only. When I put it back in, I had it slightly off, thus keeping the tank from sealing correctly, making my fuel gauge read too much fuel in the tank, and who knwos what else.

#2 - The blue rubber gasket that seals the pump to the pump housing at the bottom could be spun around the pump by hand easily. It's a hair too big, but since it's the one that came with the Walbro, thought nothing of it at the time of install. Fortunately, I had my old one still, and that fits nice and tight.

#3 - That f#%*$&ing little black o-ring at the base of the stock regulator. I made sure it was in place before installing the regulator, but somehow it came off, and the edge of the metal tube tore it in half to boot. Fortunately, we were able to find a workable replacement.

The car now hold pressure fine, and it goes up with boost. Instupidly rich, so I need to pull some fuel out with the dtec, but at least it works right. :)
 

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Pit Viper said:
Well, solved the issue. Or rather, issues.

#1 - the fuel pump module is keyed to sit in one position only. When I put it back in, I had it slightly off, thus keeping the tank from sealing correctly, making my fuel gauge read too much fuel in the tank, and who knwos what else.

#2 - The blue rubber gasket that seals the pump to the pump housing at the bottom could be spun around the pump by hand easily. It's a hair too big, but since it's the one that came with the Walbro, thought nothing of it at the time of install. Fortunately, I had my old one still, and that fits nice and tight.

#3 - That f#%*$&ing little black o-ring at the base of the stock regulator. I made sure it was in place before installing the regulator, but somehow it came off, and the edge of the metal tube tore it in half to boot. Fortunately, we were able to find a workable replacement.

The car now hold pressure fine, and it goes up with boost. Instupidly rich, so I need to pull some fuel out with the dtec, but at least it works right. :)
rookie hehe... :eveilgrin
 
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