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OEM vs Airtex E7142M

8K views 12 replies 7 participants last post by  gump1114 
#1 ·
*Little background story*
I was out of town, walboro 255 pump died. had the car towed to a firestone who replaced my whole pump canister assembly with a unit from Airtex (E7142M). Couple weeks later i noticed a fuel leak back at the tank and my gas guage has been reading wrong.

I decided to pull out the unit and compare it to the stock unit they pulled out. I took pictures of what i noticed to present to the forum.




canisters side-by-side:


as you can see the Airtex unit is slightly longer and has a different shape. also the level float is slightly shorter.

again side-by-side: showing the difference in the design of the sock filter.




one main difference is this check valve type vent in the Airtex canister:




The FPR seems basically identical and is 58psi.


On to the pumps: 255L vs Airtex pump


as you can see the Airtex pump is a good bit smaller, but from what i've read will flow more than the stocker. (likely not as much as the 255). I cannot confirm or deny this though. The designs however are much different.

bottom of Airtex pump:


bottom of 255l pump:


At this point i reinstalled the Airtex unit into my tank and everything seems to be sealed up (hopefully i fixed the leak).

I have plans to hack up my oem unit and install a bosch 044 pump and swap back.

But this does seem like an adequate alternative to the factory unit for anyone needing to replace theirs for whatever reason.

after doing all this last night i went and filled up the tank, i'll report back on whether or not the fuel gauge is now reading right. So far so good.
 
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#2 ·
i just put that same pump assy in my car last week. How loud is the pump in yours? Mine is pretty dam ass loud, i can hear it inside the car with the windows up. also outside of that car atleast 15 feet away. I hvaent gotten through a full tank of gas yet, but it seems like my fuel gauge is not reading the same as it used to. im at almost 200 miles on this tank and its like halfway under the 1/2 to 1/4 mark on the guage. when i put it in it was reading right before i filled her up. so im thinking that the gauge is accurate but it just stays in the full range longer and drops down to E faster once you hit 1/2 a tank.
 
#3 ·
yeah the pump is loud. I'd say comparible to a walboro 255. Also i can say, it doesnt flow near as much as a 255 because my car is way lean up top with nothing else changed but the pump. Looks like a bosch 044 pump is in my near future...
 
#5 ·
I'm almost betting someone is waiting for me to chime in -

TADA!


Stock 160-170LPH under the proper voltage, this is the best estimate I have if you have different, please post and we'll correct, or discuss the info.

S3 - 180-210 LPH * see above

Wally - 230-295 LPH Proper voltage, and to go above 255 you need a crack valve mod. They might live for 30,000 miles - might.

HFP - FLOW NOT ADVERTIZED - Estimated 170-200LPH. They say made for the SRT-4 but they dont fit, the only time I've seen one, or heard about them was tied to a "PROBLEM" - I'm going a direction here, see if you can guess where it ends on these fuel pumps... :eeeek:

AIRTEX - A.K.A. United Componets - These guys actually most likely made our OEM cannisters. Pump, IDK but you can almost bet it's a "euro" design rotor type with delrin or metal rotors. Flow should be stock as stock gets as they would have the specifications for our cars. You also may be looking at the losing bidders design for our cars. - It would appear this may be a more 044 friendly cannister. However, I've not inspected one myself other then pics. So thats a "daydream" thought at best.


Do I need to drop the 044 specs in here? - 300-380LPH 10-135psi - Bad mofo, in a good way. :thumbsup: My personal choice - see sig for DETAILED pics of how you can (ab)use 2 044's and some corn to destroy planets.


NachO
 
#6 ·
haha well your input is alway informative.

That is good info to add to this.

This seems to be a good quality alternative to an OEM unit. Though i dont know the cost of a replacement OEM canister to compare that aspect of it.
 
#8 ·
no idea where they got it from. The only part number i have to go by is what's on the sticker on the part itself. I'm going to trust that more than the picture from o'reilly auto's website. maybe for reference sake, you can order one to your store to take a look at it so we can know for sure.
 
#10 ·
well since i said i would report back on the fuel level issue.

this has me a little stumped but at this point, i'm done worrying about it...

when i fill up the tank the gas gauge goes haywire. it'll read empty with light flashing at me sometimes. it'll read half tank sometimes. it'll read full sometimes.

once the fuel level comes down a little bit under full the gauge will then read very accurate all the way to empty.

I have noticed however that at very low fuel levels (just before the light comes on) the pump seems to have a hard time sucking up enough fuel to prime the system for a startup. That being said, once started i've had no running issues and just drive to a nearby station.

now whether it does this because of a design issue, or if the gauge is actually reading higher than what is actually in the tank is debatable and is something i wont be testing. but for now, the unit seems to be working just fine.

side note* the pump is pushing enough fuel to support my power numbers without having to adjust the fuel pressure from how it was set with the walboro. I dont seem to be running any leaner than before.
 
#11 ·
the pump assy might have spun when u were tightening the ring down on it. i was holding mine with one hand whle tightening it (the pump assy fit looser thn the stock one) when i took it out a few weeks later it had spun like half an inch and the alignment tab was squashed
 
#12 ·
I know I know old thread. Was wondering about the FPR on it. you said it looked exact same as OEM and have 58 PSI on it which is good. I was looking to get a new Mopar OEM FPR and it's $190 through Modern performance! That exact canister you have and pump with FPR is only $40 via RockAuto! I'm thinking about just getting that and using the FPR. I'm blocking the FPR portion anyways with the AGP billet spacer piece. So I guess the 58psi doesn't matter. I just need the filter element really which is concealed in the FPR.
 
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