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Discussion Starter #22
WHAT exactly is .05? Iv'e got mine at 35 thousandths with no issues. BSBOB:cow:
According to the spark plug manufacturers, you should never gap iridium plugs. The fine wire center electrode is very fragile and can easily be broken if not gapped properly, so they will not warranty plugs that are broken during gapping. They claim that iridium plugs, at the factory stock setting will run better than nickel plugs at your vehicle's gap setting. That being said, your car will always run at its best at the vehicle recommended gap setting. There are proper gapping instructions on our site under the FAQs that, if followed, will allow you to properly gap your iridium plugs without breaking the center electrode.

The NGK LZTR series come with a stock gap of .050". According to the plug manufacturers, the vehicle gap setting for the SRT-4 is anything from .035" to .052" - Obviously someone is ill informed. I would look in your owner's manual for the proper gap setting and follow that.

If your vehicle is does not have any mods that have increased horsepower, you will want to stick with the vehicle recommended gap setting. If you have added hp, the hp rule of thumb is go 1 heat range colder for every 75-100hp added. What if I've added 25-50hp or 125-150hp, or anything that doesn't quite meet up to the criteria of having to use a different heat range? Then, lowering the gap setting will help the plugs to ignite properly in the denser air/fuel mixture.

So as a re-cap, if you've added up to 75hp over stock, start gradually gapping the plug down little by little until it purrs.
If you've added 75-100hp, go one heat range colder than stock and use the vehicle gap setting.
If you've added over 100hp, you're using one heat range colder, and its not running quite right-150/175hp, play with the gap setting.
and so on and so forth.

-Haven't heard of anyone having problems running nos with iridium, just don't run it with platinum.
 

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I have to confirm, AGP 50 trim , with all the mods, intercooler, hardpipes, fuel pump, return line catless exhaust. 21 lbs at 35 thousandths, NO BLOW OUT. The car pulls EXCELLENT. NOW with the WOT box, I'm BLASTIN' through the gears. YOU CAN GAP THESE PLUGS, just use needle noses and be GENTAL! I have 170 hp over stock. BSBOB:cow:
 

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According to the spark plug manufacturers, you should never gap iridium plugs. The fine wire center electrode is very fragile and can easily be broken if not gapped properly, so they will not warranty plugs that are broken during gapping. They claim that iridium plugs, at the factory stock setting will run better than nickel plugs at your vehicle's gap setting. That being said, your car will always run at its best at the vehicle recommended gap setting. There are proper gapping instructions on our site under the FAQs that, if followed, will allow you to properly gap your iridium plugs without breaking the center electrode.

The NGK LZTR series come with a stock gap of .050". According to the plug manufacturers, the vehicle gap setting for the SRT-4 is anything from .035" to .052" - Obviously someone is ill informed. I would look in your owner's manual for the proper gap setting and follow that.

If your vehicle is does not have any mods that have increased horsepower, you will want to stick with the vehicle recommended gap setting. If you have added hp, the hp rule of thumb is go 1 heat range colder for every 75-100hp added. What if I've added 25-50hp or 125-150hp, or anything that doesn't quite meet up to the criteria of having to use a different heat range? Then, lowering the gap setting will help the plugs to ignite properly in the denser air/fuel mixture.

So as a re-cap, if you've added up to 75hp over stock, start gradually gapping the plug down little by little until it purrs.
If you've added 75-100hp, go one heat range colder than stock and use the vehicle gap setting.
If you've added over 100hp, you're using one heat range colder, and its not running quite right-150/175hp, play with the gap setting.
and so on and so forth.

-Haven't heard of anyone having problems running nos with iridium, just don't run it with platinum.
What about running on a 7400 FT altitud environment, Whit 17 PSI. What plugs are right?
 

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Any chance that anybody will release a colder copper core plug. Never been a fan of the fancy metal sparkplugs.
also wish this would happen:mopar:
 

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Plugs

ok i see that the 2 step colder plugs are the LZTR7AIX-13 or 5107. also i see that you recommend only gapping with in +- .008 and the gap on those are .052. almost all of us are changing the plug gap to .030-.035 somewhere in there. i run a .030 gap. can we get the 5107 in a LZTR7AIX-8 with the smaller gap of .032 that way there is little gapping needed. the part number doesnt exist so can you help.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
ok i see that the 2 step colder plugs are the LZTR7AIX-13 or 5107. also i see that you recommend only gapping with in +- .008 and the gap on those are .052. almost all of us are changing the plug gap to .030-.035 somewhere in there. i run a .030 gap. can we get the 5107 in a LZTR7AIX-8 with the smaller gap of .032 that way there is little gapping needed. the part number doesnt exist so can you help.


That is correct - LZTR7AIX-8 doesn't exist. LZTR7AIX doesn't come in any other gap settings than -13. The only alternative is to use part number LTR7IX-11 - which is .044", so closer to your destination. You'll have to buy a socket that is slimmed down with an outer diameter of .780" at most in order to install them. We usually sell these sockets, but we don't have any right now.

The reason behind the .008" gapping max isn't so much that they won't work to start with - they'll work. But it pretty much breaks your longivity and warranty. Because the electrodes won't align the way they are supposed to, they won't last as long, and can't be turned in for a warranty exchange when they go capoot sooner than they should. So in the long run, its much cheaper to buy a socket and use the LTR's (which will run much closer to their full potential) than to only get half life out of the LZTR's and have to buy those replacements twice as often.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
so the thread length is the same just a fatter plug at the top. and there is nothing we can use that is in an 8(.032).
the thread length is the same, the hex size is the same, its just that the plug is shorter on the top side of the hex. Due to the design of the cylinders in the SRT-4 and PT Cruiser, the cylinder slims down around the base. Because the hex is down lower than normal a regular socket can't get down in to install it, so you need a socket that is slimmed down.
 
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