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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
With Stage 2 being "re-released" and many folks on the forum finally getting them into their hands, I thought I might share a few observations and tips regarding the installation in the hope that it may assist others.

1. Pulling the fuel pump relay on my car prior to removing the fuel line was unnecessary. The car wouldn't even start with it pulled. Let the car sit overnight, as I did, and just put a rag under the connector to catch the little bit of gas that dribbles out. There will be fuel in the rail, so if you tip it, it will pour out. Pull the rail and injectors out as one piece, fit the new injectors to the rail, then install as one piece (don't forget the retaining clips!)
2. As Lucy also mentioned in her write-up, I couldn't get the PCM and bracket in as one piece. I took them out separately, too.
3. You need a Torx#20 screwdriver to remove the MAP sensor from the manifold.
4. The TIP sensor was the hardest thing to get out, believe it or not. I had already reinstalled the airbox after changing the PCM, which in hindsight was a bad idea, but I was too lazy to take it back out. I just bent the bracket down to finagle the sensor off, and bent it up to remove the white vacuum line. I reversed the process for the installation of the new TIP. BTW, if you can fit a screwdriver in there, the bracket can be pried out and the popped back in when done.
5. Wastegate wasn't tough, as I had already removed/replaced the top heat shield when I did my O2/exhaust install a few months ago and I didn't tighten them to death like the guy at the factory. I had to adjust my wastegate to get the proper 4mm preload on the wastegate arm. Just make sure when you put it all back together that there is no interference in the wastegate arm's movement.
6. I did the install in the following order and it took me about 3 hours taking my time (it was nice outside): injectors, PCM, MAP, TIP, wastegate.

The car actually seems to idle smoother, spool up faster, and PULLS GREAT!
The Mopar BOV is noticeably louder, too. In the brief time I've driven it, I can say that it was well worth the $$. :thumbsup:
 

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What was so hard about removing the computer with bracket attached?

I had mine in and out in less than 5 minutes...and thats removing the 3 10mm's, taking it all out, removing old pcm from bracket, putting new one on bracket, putting assembly back into place and reattaching 3 10mm's.


All ya had to do was bend the side that attaches with the nut a little to get it over the threaded bolt part...then do a quick wiggle with a quick tug to get the opposite side free from the radiator support/mount.
 

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IEATVTEC said:
What was so hard about removing the computer with bracket attached?
i'm wondering the same thing. we've done it a ton of times on various cars, never had a problem.

why would you remove the fuel pump relay for installation? does it actually say that in the instructions? we've never done that on any of the cars we've installed stage 2 on. and we didn't let the car sit overnight, just drove it to the shop and installed the parts. no problems.
 

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Stage 2 install

The instructions do say to pull the fuel pump relay; then run the car until it dies. But my car wouldn't run at all once the relay was pulled. Make sure that when you pull the fuel rail off that you do not set it down on the instructions- there is quite a bit of gas in the rail and it will make the text run off the pages of the instructions. I also had to ask for help in the placement of the wiring harnesses back into the PCM- who knew that the colored tape around the wiring wasn't the "color-coding" that the directions refer to.

If anyone has a secret for getting the third bolt out of the BOV (and more importantly- how to get it back in) that's behind the turbo oil line please let me know.
 

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IEATVTEC said:
What was so hard about removing the computer with bracket attached?

I had mine in and out in less than 5 minutes...and thats removing the 3 10mm's, taking it all out, removing old pcm from bracket, putting new one on bracket, putting assembly back into place and reattaching 3 10mm's.


All ya had to do was bend the side that attaches with the nut a little to get it over the threaded bolt part...then do a quick wiggle with a quick tug to get the opposite side free from the radiator support/mount.

I couldn't do this in my 03, this just would not work. It had to be done seperate.
 

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On the 03 and the 04 we had to wiggle and jiggle the pcm and bracket to get it out as one peice, but it comes out. But taking the three other screws out in the car is no big deal either. So which ever floats your boat, they both work.
 

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Steiner said:
My S2 comes in on Wenesday. Thanks for the info mummatup. Only thing I'm really worried about is replacing the injectors. Since I have an '04 I dodged that bullet when I installed my S1 kit.
Injectors are pretty easy. Just take your time and read the instructions. My hardest issue with the injectors was pulling the fuel rail. Had to really pull on mine to get the injectors unseated. Take a peek into the ports when you pull it. I found lots of dirt particles on the seats. Clean them up before reinstalling.

Be careful when looking for the blue wire with white stripe ( I believe) in the switched fuse box. There are two of them. You'll have to check for the correct circuit number on the back of the board. Read Re-Read and Re-Read the instructions and take your time. Good Luck :thumbsup:

Oh one other thing: After making a complete ass :stab: of myself and wondering why I was pulling 7 PSI of boost, make sure (if you got toy's) to dial it in to "3" when you take it out for a test ride.
 

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ptc01 said:
Be careful when looking for the blue wire with white stripe ( I believe) in the switched fuse box. There are two of them. You'll have to check for the correct circuit number on the back of the board. Read Re-Read and Re-Read the instructions and take your time. Good Luck :thumbsup:
I got S2 w/o toys so does this still apply to me?
 

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Jb4short said:
If anyone has a secret for getting the third bolt out of the BOV (and more importantly- how to get it back in) that's behind the turbo oil line please let me know.
10mm ratcheting wrench and small hands :lol: Seriously though get that ratcheting 10mm wrench and it is very very easy to do....
 

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bodizapha13 said:
Hey Steiner did you see the prices on MSC thread of the stage 3's? I thought you were going to go with it.
I haven't seen that thread. Might have been somebody else. I'll never say never, but S2 is probably the last power adder I'll do to my car. Next for me is S2 coilovers. :thumbsup:
 

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Jb4short said:
The instructions do say to pull the fuel pump relay; then run the car until it dies. But my car wouldn't run at all once the relay was pulled. Make sure that when you pull the fuel rail off that you do not set it down on the instructions- there is quite a bit of gas in the rail and it will make the text run off the pages of the instructions. I also had to ask for help in the placement of the wiring harnesses back into the PCM- who knew that the colored tape around the wiring wasn't the "color-coding" that the directions refer to.

If anyone has a secret for getting the third bolt out of the BOV (and more importantly- how to get it back in) that's behind the turbo oil line please let me know.
well its not really suppost to run. jus suppost to use up the fuel in the rail and injectors
 

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Stage 2 install

Honestly, I was just happy to get the whole kit installed and to have it run and drive without any of the "Horror story" issues that I had read about on these forums (check engine lights, stalling, bad idle etc.). I've bought enough aftermarket stuff that arrived incomplete, missing instructions, wrong fittings etc. that it made this kit a JOY to install. Now if anyone knows how to order a replacement stage 2 emblem I'd be glad to buy it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Steiner, you do not need to mess with any wiring for a NO TOYS install.

The directions DO say to pull the fuel pump relay, but my car wouldn't even start without it.

I was just letting folks that are going to be installing Stage 2 w/o toys know what I experienced during the install. There really wasn't anyway that my PCM was coming out/going in with the accompanying bracket, at least from the top of the car. The injectors were easy, but like many others have noted, once you pull them, be aware that there is going to be some dirt in the holes, and you don't want that crap in the cylinder. I pulled the rail/injectors as one and used my shopvac to suck the junk away. I installed the new injectors at my workbench, because it's very easy to lose stuff in our engine compartment and you don't want to drop a retaining ring in there.

With regard to the wastegate, I found a screwdriver tip that was 4mm to use as a gauge and used a magic marker to mark the w'gate. I did have to adjust it as it wasn't set properly out of the box.

Again, the directions are pretty clear - I just wanted to post to let people know what the directions didn't tell me so they don't think that they might be f*%cking something up if things don't go according to plan.

I really think the drivability has improved overall, though the turbo seems to boost quicker. This makes it more difficult to drive without the BOV going off (not that it's such a big deal, but around town from light to light, I don't need the attention). I have hit 18lbs but didn't stay in it past 5 grand in third (I have the boost gauge that lets you see the peak level - very handy). I had already previously installed a 3" O2/exhaust. I only have 2400mi. on my car so I hope that as the engine loosens up it will only get faster.
 

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mummatup said:
The directions DO say to pull the fuel pump relay, but my car wouldn't even start without it.
The problem is the PCM is not connected. The instructions say to do it first. They should actually tell you to pull the fuel pump relay and run the car before messing with the PCM.

If the PCM is not connected that's why the car won't run. Since it won't run it doesn't clear out the fuel in the fuel rail.

I figured this out after I did my install. :thumbsup:
 

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DONT undo the oilfeed line!!!! Reach under the exhaust manifold from the passenger side. I have installed two Forge BOVs and one Mopar and have not needed to undo that line.
 
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