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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok, i've been running an NX system on my SRT-4 all summer, i love it, runs AWESOME on it, i started with a 50 shot and got it dynoed, a REAL 57 @ wheel HP increase!! then i jetted the nozzel up to 75, again i'm very happy, runs great. i have the 100 shot nozzels. i'm thinking about putting them in. i'm running a wet system and the car is running like it was made for the NOS. i need oppinions on doing the 100 shot. anyone think i'll burn it up? due to financial reasons the only other perf mod i have in a typhoon intake....
 

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If the Nitrous Express kit is working for you, why would you switch to Nitrous Oxide Systems?

Personally, I would go with The Nitrous Works, but that's just me...

Nitrous Oxide Systems tech support sucks, even for their bread and butter musclecar kits.
 

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Dale Seeley said:
If the Nitrous Express kit is working for you, why would you switch to Nitrous Oxide Systems?

Personally, I would go with The Nitrous Works, but that's just me...

Nitrous Oxide Systems tech support sucks, even for their bread and butter musclecar kits.
I don't think he realizes NOS is a brand name and not the same as nitrous oxide.

-faast
 

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I think he is mixing up Nitrous with (brand name) NOS...you know what I mean? He just wants to know if he should switch to a 100 shot of Nitrous instead of the 75 shot with the NX kit. Right?


I would stick with 75 shot...that's just my opinion...I've seen 2 cars pop running 100 shot (none that I know of with a 75 shot).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
no i know the brands....i been doing this stuff for a while now.....i was using "NOS" in the slang....

i'm a bit confused, if the stock SRT-4 motor can safely handle up to 400 HP why whould a 100 shot cause it to pop on a car with no other major mods. do you know if thoes 2 cars were running a wet system?
 

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CMax26 said:
no i know the brands....i been doing this stuff for a while now.....i was using "NOS" in the slang....

i'm a bit confused, if the stock SRT-4 motor can safely handle up to 400 HP why whould a 100 shot cause it to pop on a car with no other major mods. do you know if thoes 2 cars were running a wet system?
Nitrous horsepower is no different from any other horsepower. If you can get 369whp with S3, there is no reason why you can't get it safely with nitrous.

The key is using it correctly, installing it correctly, and keeping up on maintanence. Run it wet, and run it rich. Waste a little nitrous by running it rich, just up the jets sizes to get the 100 number while keeping it rich.

A decent rule of thumb is 'never double the hp at any RPM', remember, a 100 shot of nitrous will make 100 hp at 1500 RPM as well as at 5500 RPM.

Remember that the 'aftershot' will flow a little longer after turning off the solenoids, don't just come comepletely off the throttle right way, come off just enough to turn off the solenoids, and let the system bleed down...

If it were me, I'd look at the S3 graphs, choose the minimum rpm that the system will be engaged at, and make sure the stock hp at that RPM plus the amount you are adding, does not exceed the S3 level at that RPM...

Dale
 

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CMax26 said:
no i know the brands....i been doing this stuff for a while now.....i was using "NOS" in the slang....
Apparently you haven't been doing it for awhile. No one uses NOS as saying Nitrous except riceboys.

Harry! I need two of those, the big ones. And Harry, I need that naaws tonight
 

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Dale, so are you saying nitrous should activate somewhere in the 3500-4000 rpm range and die off somewhere in the 5500-6000 rpm range? RPM window switch?

also be a bit more clear on the "lifting your foot off the gas slowly" letting the system close.
i'm getting this same exact system (NX 75 shot wet) with the rpm window switch, bottle blanket, etc...just curious to learn more about driving it and how it will react so i know what to expect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
if you own a honda than YOU are the rice boy. why is it that everyone on this fucking forum jumps all over you if you dont talk, think, act or make your car like they think you should. for christ sake,why you cant ask a fucking question without taking slack for jackoffs...
 

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CMax26 said:
if you own a honda than YOU are the rice boy. why is it that everyone on this fucking forum jumps all over you if you dont talk, think, act or make your car like they think you should. for christ sake,why you cant ask a fucking question without taking slack for jackoffs...
Pretend you have a sense of humor and idiots won't take advantage of you...
 

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robino said:
Dale, so are you saying nitrous should activate somewhere in the 3500-4000 rpm range and die off somewhere in the 5500-6000 rpm range? RPM window switch?

also be a bit more clear on the "lifting your foot off the gas slowly" letting the system close.
i'm getting this same exact system (NX 75 shot wet) with the rpm window switch, bottle blanket, etc...just curious to learn more about driving it and how it will react so i know what to expect.
It's very rare that any real nitrous user will offer advice on specific jetting sizes or rpm points because it's very easy for newbies to ruin cars with other peoples settings.

I am saying that if you look at a 'known safe' dyno plot, and overlay your current dyno plot (assuming both are numbers at the wheels or at the crank), you can get a really good idea of how far you can go safely. If you want to engage the solenoids at 3500 rpm, look at the difference between the two plots at that RPM and that is the amount of nitrous you *should* be able to safely run without running dangerous cylinder pressures at that lower rpm.

The upper RPM is really a measure of your fortitude. As long as you aren't juicing when you hit the rev limiter, ever, and you never hit a fuel cut, ever, you should be fine.

With regard to 'lifting', when the solenoids turn off, there is still high pressure nitrous in the line between the solenoid and the engine. There is also fuel being sent with it. If you snap off the throttle, the throttle blade slams shut, and you have nitrous and fuel flowing into the cold charge pipe with nowhere to go but the intercooler.... The WOT switch that you will use to arm the system and keep it from acidentally coming on at idle when one of your bonehead friends pushes the button while you're in the drive-thru lane at Burger King suddenly is the cause of possible problems when combined with a bonehead driver... When you finish your pass under nitrous, lift a little, even if you've disabled the system at the 'master arm' or momentary thumb switch, so that you will still be flowing a lot of intake air through the system to hopefully pick up the excess nitrous and fuel that shows up after the solenoids shut. You'll feel the system wind down, it's pretty cool...

Beginning nitrous users should budget for a new engine before installing their kit. Not because nitrous is dangerous, but because beginners are dangerous...
 
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