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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am somewhat of a newbie and have posted very little on the board but read information on this site CONSTANTLY!! You guys are a life savor so I thought I would get inputs from you on my current problem.

I just finished installing all of the mods you see in my sig this past weekend. According to AGP and from what I have read I preloaded the sprint in the WGA so that I would push 15 psi and then used my MBC to up that to around 18 psi spike holding around 15-16 psi at redline.

Well the problem "was" that it was running like shit at WOT?? In talking with Jon over at AGP and a few guys here via PM I determined the first problem was with my solenoids. AGP said that with these mods I should have NO lines going in or coming out of the solenoid and I still had a few straglers. I just finished getting those taken care of last night so now I have NO lines coming from or going to the soleniod and the only pressure/vacuum line I have is the one coming out of the TB which goes to the boost gauge and the BOV and then the lines coming from the turbo and WGA going to the MBC. That's it and it definitely runs better and no check engine lights. :)

Anyway now when I am cruising and just mash the gas to WOT the car kind of putters a few times and sometimes even makes loud pops coming out the exhaust? Now if I push the gas down consistenly and then mash towards the end of the pedal travel it doesn't happen as often? Also if I start in first gear and just mash it and travel all through the gears it runs perfect?

AGP mentioned that I might want to get a set of colder spark plugs and gap at 0.30 and see how that works do you agree? Do you know why this is happening? I was under the impression the stock fuel system and such can handle an 18 psi spike but it seems like it can't? Is it knocking? Is it possible that because of the 0.50 gap in the spark plugs that they aren't firing as quick at the high end because of how fast my boost shoots up and that in turn is causing the fuel to shut off?

I am lost here but I would really like to figure this out. I am planning on getting a dyno this Saturday with wideband so I will at least be able to see my A/F ratio because that will probably help in figuring out the problem. Just looking for any ideas.

Thanks guys
 

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Definatly reduce you spark plug gap. Even on a stock car the .050 is to big IMO. Drop your gap down to about .037 or so and see how that works for you. The stock plugs should work for you but I would recommend soem NGK 4306 plugs they are 1 step colder. You are most likely getting spark blow out with that huge gap you are running.
 

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ROBSSRT4 said:
Dude you are experiencing TURBO LAG!!!!! get on the highway on fourth gear in the 4k rpm range and WOT see if it does it, then try it again at fourth gear at about 2800 rpm you re going to see how it does it .
Turbo lag doesn't include sputtering. You should never had a sputtering car when you floor it, regardless of how big of a turbo and how much of turbo lag you have.



I agree 100% w/ srtowner. It's your plugs dude. Gap them down or get the 4306's and gap those down and your set. Another issue it could be is fuel cut / overboost since you're going above the stock levels and now blinding the computer.

Also, i'd take the car to a dyno shop (if you havent already) to make sure your a/f is safe. I'd be weary going to 18psi with all those airflow mods you have on, and not a single fuel mod.
 

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srtowner said:
Definatly reduce you spark plug gap. Even on a stock car the .050 is to big IMO. Drop your gap down to about .037 or so and see how that works for you. The stock plugs should work for you but I would recommend soem NGK 4306 plugs they are 1 step colder. You are most likely getting spark blow out with that huge gap you are running.
Yea srtowner is right. I was experiencing the same problem you are having and it was very frustrating. It took quite some time of pulling plugs and adjusting but now my problem is eliminated. I ended up at a .025 gap but the car runs hard, and no more "popping" ..keep adjusting the gap down from .040 till you find the "sweet spot" for your mods.

And just as a suggestion... Ive found the best and most accurate way to adjust the gap on a plug is to buy a set of feeler gauges with the ranges ur looking for, and use the prong on a prong type spark plug gapper to bend the grounding arm down while you hold the feeler gauge between the electrode and the grounding arm of the plug.

Post your results if possible...hope it helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ROBSSRT4 said:
One more thing you got to do after installing new parts is disconnect the batt
this way the pcm will learn all the new curves on the parts .
I disconnected the battery while doing all the installs and then reconnected when I was done. Just last night when I was messing with the solenoid and the intake to make sure I had everything capped correctly to ensure no boost leak I had the battery disconnected. Is that good enough or are you saying to disconnect it again? Just clarifying. :)

As for the other posts thank you. :) I am DEFINITELY getting new spark plugs and from what I have heard and what you confirmed in this post is that the NGK plugs are the way to go. Can I ask why the 4306 plugs? According to NGK's site they offer 4 types of plugs: V-Power, G-Power, Laser Platinum and Iridium IX - why get the 4306's (V-Power) over the others?

What about wires? Should I get them? If so what brand or mm size? Is that all I should need as far as spark is concerned?

Thanks again.

-Brad-
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
srtowner said:
Definatly reduce you spark plug gap. Even on a stock car the .050 is to big IMO. Drop your gap down to about .037 or so and see how that works for you. The stock plugs should work for you but I would recommend soem NGK 4306 plugs they are 1 step colder. You are most likely getting spark blow out with that huge gap you are running.
What is spark blow out? Can you please describe it? I may know what it is but not heard it in that term. :)

Now AGP told me to start with around 0.30 gap and then go from there, what is the difference or potential problems with changing the gap in a spark plug?

Thanks.

-Brad-
 

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spark blow out is when the force of the pressure in the cylinder chamber blows the spark plug out before it has a chance to ignite the mixture. The cure for this is to make the gap that the spark jumps across smaller. But on a car pushing only 18psi, I would also look for other week spots in the ignition system in addition to plug gap. How many miles are on your spark plug wires?
 

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I have little bit less mods then you and Im gapped at .040 with the NGK 4306's.

They are cheap, buy a box. I got like 30 at my house for whenever i want new plugs.

Take a video of your sputtering. I wanna see this, cause my car in 4th at 2k and I hit it will kind of sputter I guess. My boost is very gradual until i get around 3-3.5K. I figured it was to low of rpm for the gear that is causing turbo lag.

I have maybe 600-700 miles on these plugs. Is .040 to high for my mods??
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Network13 said:
spark blow out is when the force of the pressure in the cylinder chamber blows the spark plug out before it has a chance to ignite the mixture. The cure for this is to make the gap that the spark jumps across smaller. But on a car pushing only 18psi, I would also look for other week spots in the ignition system in addition to plug gap. How many miles are on your spark plug wires?
I have around 28,000 miles on my car but I bought it used and have never touched the spark plugs? I did find a NAPA near me that has them so I am going to pick them up on the way home.

When you say on a car pushing only 18 psi, do you not think sputtering should occur even with the stock plugs gapped at .50? AGP seems to think the stock plugs suck for even the stock SRT-4 and says that most people gap the plugs at .32 I guess I will play with the gapping.

You don't mean LITERALLY blow out the spark plug do you? I thought they screw in is that not correct?

-Brad-
 

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andersb7 said:
Network13 said:
spark blow out is when the force of the pressure in the cylinder chamber blows the spark plug out before it has a chance to ignite the mixture. The cure for this is to make the gap that the spark jumps across smaller. But on a car pushing only 18psi, I would also look for other week spots in the ignition system in addition to plug gap. How many miles are on your spark plug wires?
I have around 28,000 miles on my car but I bought it used and have never touched the spark plugs? I did find a NAPA near me that has them so I am going to pick them up on the way home.

When you say on a car pushing only 18 psi, do you not think sputtering should occur even with the stock plugs gapped at .50? AGP seems to think the stock plugs suck for even the stock SRT-4 and says that most people gap the plugs at .32 I guess I will play with the gapping.

You don't mean LITERALLY blow out the spark plug do you? I thought they screw in is that not correct?
-Brad-
I'm sorry...but I really had to laugh.

On to business. The plug does not "blow out"...the spark does. Like blowing out a candle. With 30k miles your car could definitely use a good tune up. New plugs/wires/pcv valve/trans fluid flush/fuel filter/etc. I also recommend getting a check valve from PTP(I'm not even going to try explaining that to you right now.). And while you're at it throw in a cooler tstat(160 or 180).

Do you know how to work on cars? Or just think you do? I'm not trying to pick on ya,..just wanna know. Try to find a local SRT guy who knows a thing or two. Let him show you around the engine bay, give you some pointers, teach you how to work on the car,..etc.

Also,..since I'm guessing this is your first turbocharged car...let me explain something quick. A turbocharger begins making full boost at a certain rpm....be it 3K, 4K, etc., depending on size and other variables. Don't expect to make 18psi of boost at 1500 rpms....meaning if you are cruising in 3 gear going very slow and you just stomp on the pedal dont expect the car to surge forward. The turbo needs to spool up and build the boost. You might be mistaking this(turbo lag) for sputtering. If the car has bad plugs it could very well be sputtering when you drive like that. You say it doesn't sputter if you launch from a stop. Try rolling on the throttle. Get into 2nd gear cruising at about 2500-2700 rpms and then put the pedal down. Notice how the turbo responds differently.

The stock gap of .050 is large even for stock boost levels...let alone when you increase it. You will get lots of answers on what gap is best. Trial and error is the only way to go.

Invest in some good maintenance for your car. While you're at it,...read the "how to" on doing a boost leak test.

These cars perform great and last long if you mod properly and maintain them.

Good luck and be safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Stock04SilverSrt said:
andersb7 said:
Network13 said:
spark blow out is when the force of the pressure in the cylinder chamber blows the spark plug out before it has a chance to ignite the mixture. The cure for this is to make the gap that the spark jumps across smaller. But on a car pushing only 18psi, I would also look for other week spots in the ignition system in addition to plug gap. How many miles are on your spark plug wires?
I have around 28,000 miles on my car but I bought it used and have never touched the spark plugs? I did find a NAPA near me that has them so I am going to pick them up on the way home.

When you say on a car pushing only 18 psi, do you not think sputtering should occur even with the stock plugs gapped at .50? AGP seems to think the stock plugs suck for even the stock SRT-4 and says that most people gap the plugs at .32 I guess I will play with the gapping.

You don't mean LITERALLY blow out the spark plug do you? I thought they screw in is that not correct?
-Brad-
I'm sorry...but I really had to laugh.

On to business. The plug does not "blow out"...the spark does. Like blowing out a candle. With 30k miles your car could definitely use a good tune up. New plugs/wires/pcv valve/trans fluid flush/fuel filter/etc. I also recommend getting a check valve from PTP(I'm not even going to try explaining that to you right now.). And while you're at it throw in a cooler tstat(160 or 180).

Do you know how to work on cars? Or just think you do? I'm not trying to pick on ya,..just wanna know. Try to find a local SRT guy who knows a thing or two. Let him show you around the engine bay, give you some pointers, teach you how to work on the car,..etc.

Also,..since I'm guessing this is your first turbocharged car...let me explain something quick. A turbocharger begins making full boost at a certain rpm....be it 3K, 4K, etc., depending on size and other variables. Don't expect to make 18psi of boost at 1500 rpms....meaning if you are cruising in 3 gear going very slow and you just stomp on the pedal dont expect the car to surge forward. The turbo needs to spool up and build the boost. You might be mistaking this(turbo lag) for sputtering. If the car has bad plugs it could very well be sputtering when you drive like that. You say it doesn't sputter if you launch from a stop. Try rolling on the throttle. Get into 2nd gear cruising at about 2500-2700 rpms and then put the pedal down. Notice how the turbo responds differently.

The stock gap of .050 is large even for stock boost levels...let alone when you increase it. You will get lots of answers on what gap is best. Trial and error is the only way to go.

Invest in some good maintenance for your car. While you're at it,...read the "how to" on doing a boost leak test.

These cars perform great and last long if you mod properly and maintain them.

Good luck and be safe.
I understand you having to laugh but just so you know I am not an idiot and I do know about cars and how they work quite well, however, I learn what I need to know when I need to know it. I installed all these parts by myself and the directions sucked. I also figured out the solenoid setup by asking questions and figuring it out because again there is no real good documentation.

In regards to "blowing out the spark plug" I didn't really think that was the case but I had to ask a question to get an explanation. Although I think everyone on here is smart in there own way, however, when people are telling you what to do they forget that not everyone knows exactly what they are talking about and they don't explain it well. For example a lot of the lingo like MBC (Manual Boost Controller), BOV (Blow Off Valve), WGA (Wastegate Actuator), etc. not everyone knows those when they first get this car. I am not trying to flame anyone but being a computer programmer I have to "dumb" things down and explain throughly the information I am providing and in this case nobody told me what spark blow out was so I asked a dumb question in hopes to get an explanation which I got so thank you.

Some of what I am feeling could very well be turbo lag but either way it sounds like the spark plugs are a good idea so I picked them up today and will put them in later.

I would very much like to find an SRT guy in the local Columbus Ohio area who actually KNOWS how about how these cars work - anyone? I know 2 guys with SRT's and I have more know how on these cars then they do by far and actually help them with things.

Anyway thanks for the info and I apologize if what I said comes off as flaming, all I was trying to do is explain that I do know a fair amount about cars in general and the SRT-4 and am just trying to learn as much as I can so that I can do the right mods and take care of the car.

-Brad-
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
solarsrt said:
srtowner said:
Definatly reduce you spark plug gap. Even on a stock car the .050 is to big IMO. Drop your gap down to about .037 or so and see how that works for you. The stock plugs should work for you but I would recommend soem NGK 4306 plugs they are 1 step colder. You are most likely getting spark blow out with that huge gap you are running.
Yea srtowner is right. I was experiencing the same problem you are having and it was very frustrating. It took quite some time of pulling plugs and adjusting but now my problem is eliminated. I ended up at a .025 gap but the car runs hard, and no more "popping" ..keep adjusting the gap down from .040 till you find the "sweet spot" for your mods.

And just as a suggestion... Ive found the best and most accurate way to adjust the gap on a plug is to buy a set of feeler gauges with the ranges ur looking for, and use the prong on a prong type spark plug gapper to bend the grounding arm down while you hold the feeler gauge between the electrode and the grounding arm of the plug.

Post your results if possible...hope it helps.
Hey man, is there another way to lower the gap on the spark plugs? I ask because 1) I don't know what it is your are describing (feeler gauges, etc) and 2) I would like to do it tonight and I can't leave the house. Right now they all appear to be gapped at around .040 right now and I am just looking for a way with a screwdriver or something to lower the gap.

Also are those whp/wtq #'s in your sig with the mods listed in your sig and on a stock turbo at 18 psi? Just curious. Thanks.

-Brad-
 

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andersb7 said:
solarsrt said:
srtowner said:
Definatly reduce you spark plug gap. Even on a stock car the .050 is to big IMO. Drop your gap down to about .037 or so and see how that works for you. The stock plugs should work for you but I would recommend soem NGK 4306 plugs they are 1 step colder. You are most likely getting spark blow out with that huge gap you are running.
Yea srtowner is right. I was experiencing the same problem you are having and it was very frustrating. It took quite some time of pulling plugs and adjusting but now my problem is eliminated. I ended up at a .025 gap but the car runs hard, and no more "popping" ..keep adjusting the gap down from .040 till you find the "sweet spot" for your mods.

And just as a suggestion... Ive found the best and most accurate way to adjust the gap on a plug is to buy a set of feeler gauges with the ranges ur looking for, and use the prong on a prong type spark plug gapper to bend the grounding arm down while you hold the feeler gauge between the electrode and the grounding arm of the plug.

Post your results if possible...hope it helps.
Hey man, is there another way to lower the gap on the spark plugs? I ask because 1) I don't know what it is your are describing (feeler gauges, etc) and 2) I would like to do it tonight and I can't leave the house. Right now they all appear to be gapped at around .040 right now and I am just looking for a way with a screwdriver or something to lower the gap.

Also are those whp/wtq #'s in your sig with the mods listed in your sig and on a stock turbo at 18 psi? Just curious. Thanks.

-Brad-
Just lightly Tap them on a Table or something like that.
 

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andersb7 said:
solarsrt said:
srtowner said:
Definatly reduce you spark plug gap. Even on a stock car the .050 is to big IMO. Drop your gap down to about .037 or so and see how that works for you. The stock plugs should work for you but I would recommend soem NGK 4306 plugs they are 1 step colder. You are most likely getting spark blow out with that huge gap you are running.
Yea srtowner is right. I was experiencing the same problem you are having and it was very frustrating. It took quite some time of pulling plugs and adjusting but now my problem is eliminated. I ended up at a .025 gap but the car runs hard, and no more "popping" ..keep adjusting the gap down from .040 till you find the "sweet spot" for your mods.

And just as a suggestion... Ive found the best and most accurate way to adjust the gap on a plug is to buy a set of feeler gauges with the ranges ur looking for, and use the prong on a prong type spark plug gapper to bend the grounding arm down while you hold the feeler gauge between the electrode and the grounding arm of the plug.

Post your results if possible...hope it helps.
Hey man, is there another way to lower the gap on the spark plugs? I ask because 1) I don't know what it is your are describing (feeler gauges, etc) and 2) I would like to do it tonight and I can't leave the house. Right now they all appear to be gapped at around .040 right now and I am just looking for a way with a screwdriver or something to lower the gap.

Also are those whp/wtq #'s in your sig with the mods listed in your sig and on a stock turbo at 18 psi? Just curious. Thanks.

-Brad-
In no way should you estimate the gap just by looking at it....there is no way of accurately knowing what it's set at. You need to buy a spark plug gap tool.
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/LIS-67870.html
http://www.bobstools.net/Store/LS67900.html This one has the prongs on the end of it to lower the gap.
Heres a video.
http://www.ehow.com/how_110_replace-spark-plugs.html
It shows how to change spark plugs. Somewhere about halfway through the video they show the guy using a gap tool.(i simply did a google search to find that video for you).
I screwdriver is not the proper tool for adjusting gap.
 

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andersb7 said:
Stock04SilverSrt said:
andersb7 said:
Network13 said:
spark blow out is when the force of the pressure in the cylinder chamber blows the spark plug out before it has a chance to ignite the mixture. The cure for this is to make the gap that the spark jumps across smaller. But on a car pushing only 18psi, I would also look for other week spots in the ignition system in addition to plug gap. How many miles are on your spark plug wires?
I have around 28,000 miles on my car but I bought it used and have never touched the spark plugs? I did find a NAPA near me that has them so I am going to pick them up on the way home.

When you say on a car pushing only 18 psi, do you not think sputtering should occur even with the stock plugs gapped at .50? AGP seems to think the stock plugs suck for even the stock SRT-4 and says that most people gap the plugs at .32 I guess I will play with the gapping.

You don't mean LITERALLY blow out the spark plug do you? I thought they screw in is that not correct?
-Brad-
I'm sorry...but I really had to laugh.

On to business. The plug does not "blow out"...the spark does. Like blowing out a candle. With 30k miles your car could definitely use a good tune up. New plugs/wires/pcv valve/trans fluid flush/fuel filter/etc. I also recommend getting a check valve from PTP(I'm not even going to try explaining that to you right now.). And while you're at it throw in a cooler tstat(160 or 180).

Do you know how to work on cars? Or just think you do? I'm not trying to pick on ya,..just wanna know. Try to find a local SRT guy who knows a thing or two. Let him show you around the engine bay, give you some pointers, teach you how to work on the car,..etc.

Also,..since I'm guessing this is your first turbocharged car...let me explain something quick. A turbocharger begins making full boost at a certain rpm....be it 3K, 4K, etc., depending on size and other variables. Don't expect to make 18psi of boost at 1500 rpms....meaning if you are cruising in 3 gear going very slow and you just stomp on the pedal dont expect the car to surge forward. The turbo needs to spool up and build the boost. You might be mistaking this(turbo lag) for sputtering. If the car has bad plugs it could very well be sputtering when you drive like that. You say it doesn't sputter if you launch from a stop. Try rolling on the throttle. Get into 2nd gear cruising at about 2500-2700 rpms and then put the pedal down. Notice how the turbo responds differently.

The stock gap of .050 is large even for stock boost levels...let alone when you increase it. You will get lots of answers on what gap is best. Trial and error is the only way to go.

Invest in some good maintenance for your car. While you're at it,...read the "how to" on doing a boost leak test.

These cars perform great and last long if you mod properly and maintain them.

Good luck and be safe.
I understand you having to laugh but just so you know I am not an idiot and I do know about cars and how they work quite well, however, I learn what I need to know when I need to know it. I installed all these parts by myself and the directions sucked. I also figured out the solenoid setup by asking questions and figuring it out because again there is no real good documentation.

In regards to "blowing out the spark plug" I didn't really think that was the case but I had to ask a question to get an explanation. Although I think everyone on here is smart in there own way, however, when people are telling you what to do they forget that not everyone knows exactly what they are talking about and they don't explain it well. For example a lot of the lingo like MBC (Manual Boost Controller), BOV (Blow Off Valve), WGA (Wastegate Actuator), etc. not everyone knows those when they first get this car. I am not trying to flame anyone but being a computer programmer I have to "dumb" things down and explain throughly the information I am providing and in this case nobody told me what spark blow out was so I asked a dumb question in hopes to get an explanation which I got so thank you.

Some of what I am feeling could very well be turbo lag but either way it sounds like the spark plugs are a good idea so I picked them up today and will put them in later.

I would very much like to find an SRT guy in the local Columbus Ohio area who actually KNOWS how about how these cars work - anyone? I know 2 guys with SRT's and I have more know how on these cars then they do by far and actually help them with things.

Anyway thanks for the info and I apologize if what I said comes off as flaming, all I was trying to do is explain that I do know a fair amount about cars in general and the SRT-4 and am just trying to learn as much as I can so that I can do the right mods and take care of the car.

-Brad-
You definitely did not offend or flame me. It just confused me that you say you understand cars and know alot about them. Replacing spark plugs ranks right up there with changing oil and air filters in terms of ease....but again,..I understand everyone starts somewhere. Props to you for installing all of your mods. With lack of experience though, it's generally not a good idea to install a bunch of mods at once. Do one at a time. That way you have an easier time pinpointing what causes a problem when one arises.

Also,..the how to section on this site offers LOTS of detailed step by step write ups on how to perform maintenance, how to mod, how to troubleshoot, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Stock04SilverSrt said:
You definitely did not offend or flame me. It just confused me that you say you understand cars and know alot about them. Replacing spark plugs ranks right up there with changing oil and air filters in terms of ease....but again,..I understand everyone starts somewhere. Props to you for installing all of your mods. With lack of experience though, it's generally not a good idea to install a bunch of mods at once. Do one at a time. That way you have an easier time pinpointing what causes a problem when one arises.

Also,..the how to section on this site offers LOTS of detailed step by step write ups on how to perform maintenance, how to mod, how to troubleshoot, etc.
I appreciate you being cool about my post because I really do value the opinions on this board I just wanted to explain. I understand that spark plugs are typically things everyone knows but to be honest I have NEVER had to change them. My last few cars have all been from dealers with most of them being new and none of them had any kind of boost to where the gap had to be changed from stock. It's the same with changing a tire, I know how to do that easily but again I haven't had a flat or anything for over 3 years.

As far as too many parts at once I honestly didn't think any of them would cause this kind of problems and wasn't aware that the spark plugs would need changed. I installed an intercooler and hardpipe kit, an intake and up'd my boost and installed an exhaust. I basically set it up to get more air in and out of the system and I thought with the Stage 1 kit the fuel could handle up to 18 psi and AGP said the same thing. Not at anytime did anyone I talk to mention that at that boost pressure you would blow out the spark before it ignites, I didn't think that was even possible. Now I know and knowing is half the battle - GO JOE!!!! :)

I just got done installing the NGK V-Power 4306 spark plugs and I gapped them at .030 and it seems to work perfectly. AGP said it might mess up at part throttle and misfire but it seemed to do fine and now when I mash the gas to WOT it goes (with the exception of turbo lag of course). Now there is a slight putter at WOT but I am running around an 18 psi spike and since I don't have my wideband yet I could be pushing the A/F limit??

Thanks again for everyone's help and I am getting it dyno'd this weekend with a wideband.

-Brad-
 

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andersb7 said:
solarsrt said:
srtowner said:
Definatly reduce you spark plug gap. Even on a stock car the .050 is to big IMO. Drop your gap down to about .037 or so and see how that works for you. The stock plugs should work for you but I would recommend soem NGK 4306 plugs they are 1 step colder. You are most likely getting spark blow out with that huge gap you are running.
Yea srtowner is right. I was experiencing the same problem you are having and it was very frustrating. It took quite some time of pulling plugs and adjusting but now my problem is eliminated. I ended up at a .025 gap but the car runs hard, and no more "popping" ..keep adjusting the gap down from .040 till you find the "sweet spot" for your mods.

And just as a suggestion... Ive found the best and most accurate way to adjust the gap on a plug is to buy a set of feeler gauges with the ranges ur looking for, and use the prong on a prong type spark plug gapper to bend the grounding arm down while you hold the feeler gauge between the electrode and the grounding arm of the plug.

Post your results if possible...hope it helps.
Hey man, is there another way to lower the gap on the spark plugs? I ask because 1) I don't know what it is your are describing (feeler gauges, etc) and 2) I would like to do it tonight and I can't leave the house. Right now they all appear to be gapped at around .040 right now and I am just looking for a way with a screwdriver or something to lower the gap.

Also are those whp/wtq #'s in your sig with the mods listed in your sig and on a stock turbo at 18 psi? Just curious. Thanks.

-Brad-
Yea you should NEVER estimate a gap on the spark plug because you are dealing with thousandths of an inch. That is visually unmeasurable. But yes those numbers were on a stock turbo 91 octane 18 psi.. and SAE corrected
 
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