Dodge SRT Forum banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi a few days ago after a heavy rain fall I drove my neon to work in the work and after work the rain had cleared up but I noticed my neon was misfiring and it would get worse the more I pressed the accelerator so I got home and changed the spark plugs thinking it was that BUT! It wasn’t it did make it better to where it’s not misfiring but when I try accelerating hard it begins to sputter and pop I noticed it’s only when I accelerate hard and when the boost gets past 10-12 psi if anyone has any idea what it could be please let me know
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
367 Posts
Hi a few days ago after a heavy rain fall I drove my neon to work in the work and after work the rain had cleared up but I noticed my neon was misfiring and it would get worse the more I pressed the accelerator so I got home and changed the spark plugs thinking it was that BUT! It wasn’t it did make it better to where it’s not misfiring but when I try accelerating hard it begins to sputter and pop I noticed it’s only when I accelerate hard and when the boost gets past 10-12 psi if anyone has any idea what it could be please let me know
Are you able to monitor AFR? If you are overly rich, I'd keep looking at ignition. Especially since you did notice an improvement from changing plugs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Invest into a AFR gauge, this will help in the long run. As mentioned above. I had the same problem, but my AFR gauge was reading super lean off the chart. It turned out I had no fuel getting into the mixture which then lead to bad fuel pump. After replaced I was running strong again. The AFR gauge will definitely help unless you want to start slowing replacing parts. Others will probably mention gap on spark plugs could be off or the cam position sensor or map sensor. Hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Invest into a AFR gauge, this will help in the long run. As mentioned above. I had the same problem, but my AFR gauge was reading super lean off the chart. It turned out I had no fuel getting into the mixture which then lead to bad fuel pump. After replaced I was running strong again. The AFR gauge will definitely help unless you want to start slowing replacing parts. Others will probably mention gap on spark plugs could be off or the cam position sensor or map sensor. Hope this helps.
Ok thank you ill look into a AF guage but I hope it’s not my pump I have a walbro 255 but it is like 8 years old and the gap in my plugs are 33 and yeah I’m going to replace the cam position sensor and magnet but I heard that would only sputter once it hits 2k rpms and mine only does it once I get on the gas
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
You could always do a fuel pressure test as well to rule that out, since you do not have a AFR gauge atm.
I went thru new spark plugs new wires, gapped them all, new cap and rotor, map sensor, didn't do the cam.
Then finally took it in to get fuel pressure test, because that was the last resort in my list, lol. I had also thought it could been a clogged injector as well.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
16,768 Posts
Really any modifications you start doing that are power increasers, you should start with an AFR. It takes a split second and you ruin your engine, or at the very least a piston or two. This is coming from a guy who's had some mods on my car for more than a decade and I still don't have my AFR gauge installed. But I do have the boost turned down on my AGP WGA (which in and of itself shows how long it's been since I've done anything "power" related on the car haha).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Really any modifications you start doing that are power increasers, you should start with an AFR. It takes a split second and you ruin your engine, or at the very least a piston or two. This is coming from a guy who's had some mods on my car for more than a decade and I still don't have my AFR gauge installed. But I do have the boost turned down on my AGP WGA (which in and of itself shows how long it's been since I've done anything "power" related on the car haha).
Sounds good I’ll make sure to get a AF guage which do you recommend
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You could always do a fuel pressure test as well to rule that out, since you do not have a AFR gauge atm.
I went thru new spark plugs new wires, gapped them all, new cap and rotor, map sensor, didn't do the cam.
Then finally took it in to get fuel pressure test, because that was the last resort in my list, lol. I had also thought it could been a clogged injector as well.
Yeah I’ll probably do a pressure test do you think changing the plug wires could be it? I currently have nsd wire plugs
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
16,768 Posts
The first time I changed out my plugs, I gapped them too far apart and had a lot of sputtering issues under heavy acceleration. It's been so long ago now (13 years or so?) that I don't even remember what I gapped them at or what kind of plugs they were lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hey guys so we did a fuel pressure test and that all came out good we also replaced the map sensor and still nothing we even tried running it with the waste gate disconnected to see if it would do anything different and it didn’t
 

·
Registered
04 Silver, Borg s257, high comp forged bottom end motor, semi built liberty's transmission
Joined
·
4 Posts
gap your plugs, if it runs fine under mild acceleration and cruising your having what i call spark blow out
gap them to 0.2 or 0.3
too much of a gap (and they do NOT come pre gapped) will not ignite all of the fuel


edit : orr try swapping the coil out if the coil isnt producing the voltage req... plugs wires etc wont matter
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
gap your plugs, if it runs fine under mild acceleration and cruising your having what i call spark blow out
gap them to 0.2 or 0.3
too much of a gap (and they do NOT come pre gapped) will not ignite all of the fuel


edit : orr try swapping the coil out if the coil isnt producing the voltage req... plugs wires etc wont matter
Sounds good I bought an extra set of plugs I’ll switch them out later today and I’ve always gapped it at .33 should I still do that? And if it continues the same I’ll do the coil next
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi guys so far I was able to get a read since it now has a constant misfire and it’s missing in cylinder 4 I changed the plugs and wires next I’ll do the coil if that doesn’t work what can I do next?
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top