:clap: :clap: :clap: Well i took my car to the dodge dealer today, and told them I wanted my alarm activated, so the took it back there and looked at it...and I asked the guy if there was gonna be a fee...and he said no b/c there is no alarm...I was so bummed. so I took it home and left my windows down..so I go to open te car when its locked and...hoooooonk hoooooonk hoooooonk..WOW I was so happy. I guess the tech guy didnt know that he activated it...
My Alarm = Activated :)
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
sure here it is ...NOTE: The following information was derived from the numerous posts on this topic in SRTForums. It should be all you need to get your alarm activated. I do not take credit for this information, I only compiled it in one place. Thanks to all who posted the various pieces of this information. – YellowBee
BTW – Here are the part numbers for the hood switch and trunk switches. Trunk switch is a plug in, hood looks like will need to be spliced into circuit (can’t find an existing plug like the trunk).
5293 096AA - Hood switch with bracket, 4671 067AB - Trunk switch
Here is what got my dealer to listen to me either email customer service at Dodge.com and tell them or print this out. With the instructions and this my dealer tried it, and what do you know it works!!!!!!!!
Thank you for your email to DaimlerChrysler regarding your Dodge Neon
SRT-4.
Our records indicate that your vehicle is equipped with a factory alarm
therefore, the red indicator light in the dashboard should go on when
you have activated the alarm. If this light is not going on, I suggest
returning to your service department. The dealerships
have access to technical assistance in order to try and resolve this
issue on your vehicle.
Thank you again for your email.
NOTE: Please do not use the 'Reply' function of your email system. If
you have a need to respond to this message, please visit us at our reply
form (link provided below). Our system is NOT able to accept any emails
at this address.
For any future communications related to this email, please refer to the
following information:
REFERENCE NUMBER: 11560481
REPLY LINK: http://www.chrysler.com/wccsapp/wcc...=KMM360027C0KM&
Sincerely,
Nicole
Senior Staff Representative
DaimlerChrysler Customer Assistance Center
It’s been discussed several times about the SRT-4 having or not having a car alarm.
And I will confirm with everyone that in fact the SRT-4 does have a car alarm.
Unfortunately when the car is rolled out of the factory the feature is not activated, for several reasons.
Here are 2 reasons why they don't activate them:
1. If you loose your keys you won't be able to stop the alarm from honking (even if you disconnect your battery)
2. If you loose your keys, you will have to go back to the dealer, get a replacement of keys (which is not covered by warranty) and get the whole system reset to the new keys (also no covered by warranty) in other words big $$$
BUT it is available to any SRT-4 owner to get this "Feature" activated by the dealer AND SHOULD NOT get charged for it.
If your dealership is charging you or HAS charged you, I encourage you to dial the customer care line and talk to one of the representatives. And let them know about the situation. (1. Tell them about the reference in the owners manual and 2nd tell them that other owners are aware of the alarm activation). They should contact the dealership immediately and handle the situation for you.
I have talked to the customer rep managers and there should be a memo coming across about this alarm activation issue.
If you have any questions/comments or want me to change something about this post. You know who to contact!
BTW here are the directions for the tech to activate the alarm:
I use a DRB everyday at work. The option is there, it's under the security menu. It’s like option 9 or something on the main screen where u choose engine, Trans, Body, etc. I did mine a few weeks ago and had no problem. We haven't had to update our DRB's since then, So i dunno what they were looking at, but it is there.
• Plug in the DRB3.
• Turn on key to run position.
• At the first screen press yes.
• At the second screen press #1 stand alone.
• At the third screen press #1, 1998-2004 diagnostic.
• At the fourth screen press #1 all.
• At the fifth screen press #7 theft alarm. (security)
• At the sixth screen press #1 VTSS.
• At the seventh screen press #9 miscellaneous.
• At the eighth screen press #7 configure module. (Once there change "RKE" to "VTA")
The ninth screen should show that the module is set up for VTSS, and will ask if you want to continue the reconfigure process.
When asked by the DRB3 if you want to continue (9th screen) press yes. It will then give you a list of things to do in sequence, some of which may not seem to make sense, like open the hood. Obviously this would be necessary if you had a hood switch. It will ask you to put in the correct body style, (Neon is PL) and so on .
In the end you will page back out of the process (when told process is complete) by the DRB3. Once fully out turn off the key, remove the DRB3, then cycle one full time as if starting the car and then shut the key off.
Get out of the car lock it with the fob, wait 30 seconds then open the door from the inside through an open window.
My DRB3 software version is 58.0, - JUST FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS!
The RKE module is a stand-alone module under the dash top cover. It will communicate over the PCI bus line to other comps, but is not vin specific (i.e. no internal vin, or code) as the skim module is. The PCM does not care about the RKE module, it does not need it . Pull it out (the RKE) and you can start your car. SKIM and the PCM must talk to each other with vin info, SKIM key code info etc. to allow vehicle start up.
The RKE really only controls the locks (open/closed) with the fob, speed sense door lock option, lock option with the door lock switch, dash alarm lamp, horn activation (lock chirp, panic, intrusion alarm if set up) and light function for the above stated reasons.
There is not enough info in the Neon shop man about (BUX) cars. The RKE is just a basic alarm/ lock accuator and nothing more, at least in the USA. SKIM is the real anti theft device.
Others have followed these instructions, possibly differences in DRB’s:
Put DBR3 into to "Stand Alone 98-04"
Once in "Stand alone 98-04" go to "Security"
Once in "Security" go to VTSS
Once in "VTSS" go to "Misc"
Once in "Misc" go to "Configure"
Once there change "RKE" to "VTA"
After you are done the lock button will turn on the alarm showing a round red light on the instrument cluster above gas gauge for exactly 17 seconds after that the red light will go in to a slow blink.
If the trunk pops they put in the wrong body code in the last steps. Instead of (PL) for neon they put (PT) which is the cruiser, or they put in the wrong country code. As a matter of fact I configured two cars this week . One was a 2003 and one was a 2004, both worked perfectly when done!
Once the body code or country code is put in the RKE and it is wrong , I don’t think it can be changed back. Which is probably why they want to put in a new RKE module and start over. The problem is I have not made a mistake yet on a reconfigure job, so its kind of an unknown problem.
I believe that the RKE module talks on the bus communication line to the PCM so it knows that the RKE is on line and operational. The SKIM module is the one that the PCM wants to see and talk to so the PCM allows fuel delivery. This is done by the SKIM seeing a valid sentry key,then sending a signal to the PCM to allow vehicle start and run.
A stock pcm has the sentry key (code) stored in memory . If a stock PCM is replaced it will need to have this information transferred by the tech with the DRB3.
A stage 1 PCM does not store this one piece of info, which is why a fault code is shown on all stage 1 PCMs. Can’t remember the number but its a key code mismatch or key code not stored type of fault.
If you have your stock PCM replaced with stage 1 or stage 2, nothing should need to be done as far as your RKE/alarm. By the way, the (real) )reason that DCX wants your vin to order stage1 or stage 2, is so you can put the PCM in without the dealer having to set up your PCM. If the PCM does not have a vin it will cause the ABS lamp to go off. Any time I have to replace a PCM on any newer DCX car the PCM must have the vin, mileage and SKIM info transferred to make the vehicle run with the new PCM.
Hope this helps.
BTW – Here are the part numbers for the hood switch and trunk switches. Trunk switch is a plug in, hood looks like will need to be spliced into circuit (can’t find an existing plug like the trunk).
5293 096AA - Hood switch with bracket, 4671 067AB - Trunk switch
Here is what got my dealer to listen to me either email customer service at Dodge.com and tell them or print this out. With the instructions and this my dealer tried it, and what do you know it works!!!!!!!!
Thank you for your email to DaimlerChrysler regarding your Dodge Neon
SRT-4.
Our records indicate that your vehicle is equipped with a factory alarm
therefore, the red indicator light in the dashboard should go on when
you have activated the alarm. If this light is not going on, I suggest
returning to your service department. The dealerships
have access to technical assistance in order to try and resolve this
issue on your vehicle.
Thank you again for your email.
NOTE: Please do not use the 'Reply' function of your email system. If
you have a need to respond to this message, please visit us at our reply
form (link provided below). Our system is NOT able to accept any emails
at this address.
For any future communications related to this email, please refer to the
following information:
REFERENCE NUMBER: 11560481
REPLY LINK: http://www.chrysler.com/wccsapp/wcc...=KMM360027C0KM&
Sincerely,
Nicole
Senior Staff Representative
DaimlerChrysler Customer Assistance Center
It’s been discussed several times about the SRT-4 having or not having a car alarm.
And I will confirm with everyone that in fact the SRT-4 does have a car alarm.
Unfortunately when the car is rolled out of the factory the feature is not activated, for several reasons.
Here are 2 reasons why they don't activate them:
1. If you loose your keys you won't be able to stop the alarm from honking (even if you disconnect your battery)
2. If you loose your keys, you will have to go back to the dealer, get a replacement of keys (which is not covered by warranty) and get the whole system reset to the new keys (also no covered by warranty) in other words big $$$
BUT it is available to any SRT-4 owner to get this "Feature" activated by the dealer AND SHOULD NOT get charged for it.
If your dealership is charging you or HAS charged you, I encourage you to dial the customer care line and talk to one of the representatives. And let them know about the situation. (1. Tell them about the reference in the owners manual and 2nd tell them that other owners are aware of the alarm activation). They should contact the dealership immediately and handle the situation for you.
I have talked to the customer rep managers and there should be a memo coming across about this alarm activation issue.
If you have any questions/comments or want me to change something about this post. You know who to contact!
BTW here are the directions for the tech to activate the alarm:
I use a DRB everyday at work. The option is there, it's under the security menu. It’s like option 9 or something on the main screen where u choose engine, Trans, Body, etc. I did mine a few weeks ago and had no problem. We haven't had to update our DRB's since then, So i dunno what they were looking at, but it is there.
• Plug in the DRB3.
• Turn on key to run position.
• At the first screen press yes.
• At the second screen press #1 stand alone.
• At the third screen press #1, 1998-2004 diagnostic.
• At the fourth screen press #1 all.
• At the fifth screen press #7 theft alarm. (security)
• At the sixth screen press #1 VTSS.
• At the seventh screen press #9 miscellaneous.
• At the eighth screen press #7 configure module. (Once there change "RKE" to "VTA")
The ninth screen should show that the module is set up for VTSS, and will ask if you want to continue the reconfigure process.
When asked by the DRB3 if you want to continue (9th screen) press yes. It will then give you a list of things to do in sequence, some of which may not seem to make sense, like open the hood. Obviously this would be necessary if you had a hood switch. It will ask you to put in the correct body style, (Neon is PL) and so on .
In the end you will page back out of the process (when told process is complete) by the DRB3. Once fully out turn off the key, remove the DRB3, then cycle one full time as if starting the car and then shut the key off.
Get out of the car lock it with the fob, wait 30 seconds then open the door from the inside through an open window.
My DRB3 software version is 58.0, - JUST FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS!
The RKE module is a stand-alone module under the dash top cover. It will communicate over the PCI bus line to other comps, but is not vin specific (i.e. no internal vin, or code) as the skim module is. The PCM does not care about the RKE module, it does not need it . Pull it out (the RKE) and you can start your car. SKIM and the PCM must talk to each other with vin info, SKIM key code info etc. to allow vehicle start up.
The RKE really only controls the locks (open/closed) with the fob, speed sense door lock option, lock option with the door lock switch, dash alarm lamp, horn activation (lock chirp, panic, intrusion alarm if set up) and light function for the above stated reasons.
There is not enough info in the Neon shop man about (BUX) cars. The RKE is just a basic alarm/ lock accuator and nothing more, at least in the USA. SKIM is the real anti theft device.
Others have followed these instructions, possibly differences in DRB’s:
Put DBR3 into to "Stand Alone 98-04"
Once in "Stand alone 98-04" go to "Security"
Once in "Security" go to VTSS
Once in "VTSS" go to "Misc"
Once in "Misc" go to "Configure"
Once there change "RKE" to "VTA"
After you are done the lock button will turn on the alarm showing a round red light on the instrument cluster above gas gauge for exactly 17 seconds after that the red light will go in to a slow blink.
If the trunk pops they put in the wrong body code in the last steps. Instead of (PL) for neon they put (PT) which is the cruiser, or they put in the wrong country code. As a matter of fact I configured two cars this week . One was a 2003 and one was a 2004, both worked perfectly when done!
Once the body code or country code is put in the RKE and it is wrong , I don’t think it can be changed back. Which is probably why they want to put in a new RKE module and start over. The problem is I have not made a mistake yet on a reconfigure job, so its kind of an unknown problem.
I believe that the RKE module talks on the bus communication line to the PCM so it knows that the RKE is on line and operational. The SKIM module is the one that the PCM wants to see and talk to so the PCM allows fuel delivery. This is done by the SKIM seeing a valid sentry key,then sending a signal to the PCM to allow vehicle start and run.
A stock pcm has the sentry key (code) stored in memory . If a stock PCM is replaced it will need to have this information transferred by the tech with the DRB3.
A stage 1 PCM does not store this one piece of info, which is why a fault code is shown on all stage 1 PCMs. Can’t remember the number but its a key code mismatch or key code not stored type of fault.
If you have your stock PCM replaced with stage 1 or stage 2, nothing should need to be done as far as your RKE/alarm. By the way, the (real) )reason that DCX wants your vin to order stage1 or stage 2, is so you can put the PCM in without the dealer having to set up your PCM. If the PCM does not have a vin it will cause the ABS lamp to go off. Any time I have to replace a PCM on any newer DCX car the PCM must have the vin, mileage and SKIM info transferred to make the vehicle run with the new PCM.
Hope this helps.
Joined
·
738 Posts
ok i got my car broken into and nothing hapened, no alarm going off or anything, so i spend 300 bucks on a alarm, can i do anything to get some of the repair money back. This whole thing about it being an option to get it turned on is bullshit. ok how about it being an option for them to put gas in the car when i drive it away from the dealership. Man this sucks. I am gonna take it to my dealer tomorrow and see whats up.
Joined
·
3,166 Posts
You got off easy. Here's my experience from hell with the dealer...
http://srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32916&highlight=education
http://srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32916&highlight=education
so with a greddy TT how can i get the security to be on when i lock it with the car running as i was just messin around with mine if i lock with the tt running then i can open the door no alarm... if i lock it an car is completely off then alarm goes off
Joined
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7,223 Posts
use the key fob to lock the doors while your sitting in the car, wait for the led to start to flash steadily, pull down your back seat and pull the manual trunk release. if you have yours activated, it should go off. works off of current draw from the interior lights and door switches. so it wont go off if someone was to break a window or steal your wheels.
Joined
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1,017 Posts
+1U2SLOW4ME said:took the directions to my dealer and they did it in 5 min with no prob and a smile...
they acted llike it was news to them. they pulled up the build sheet for the car to see what it was equiped with, etc...
finally they tried it, and 5 mins later im armed and beeping.
Joined
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7,223 Posts
[email protected] said:
but its much more fun to climb into the trunk. :thumbsup: I actually was showing my 4 year old the trunk release when it went off. I was teacher her how to use it. I had the child locks on, and then locked the doors, then told her she could get out if she pulled the latch in the trunk. scared the hell out of me when the horn started honking at me.
Joined
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168 Posts
Talk about reviving a dinosaur thread :wah?!: Mine was delivered ready to go...
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