na, i was joking around about the 'track' drag radial, as deon said prior that they were track dr's, lol. I've been doing some chassis changes to get more traction & changing my power adders around to get a lil more efficient and better powerband...just wrapping a few things up and the new setup will be ready for the street.
The car will always be a 40-160 monster. Only went to the track to hit 10s in cali 1st and to show some of the local hater's that it can move down the strip if i wanted it to.
I use a different tire because the m&h simply isn't going to work for my needs. It's a 'small' big dr. For 450-550hp, itll work for people's needs. There are many things I need to address in order to get the best traction possible without having to pull power out (ie; BBG..the less you need to utilize BBG, the better), and proper tire selection is one of them.
I'm not discounting anybody, but traction isn't an actively talked about topic. Tire selection and doing the other necessities to get traction is a taboo, and a relatively unknown topic.
I'll give up creature comforts, stability, driveability, tire life, and lack of ability to drive around on the tire, in order for the best possible traction. My car is not a DD, and it's only real purpose at this point is to put on a clinic, on the street.
I don't see dr's as a "track" or "street" drag radial. DOT DR's are all intended to give you different levels of traction, on the street.
There's two types of DR's: Traction, and better traction. You pick the proper tire based on a) fitment, b) hp needs, & c) driveability needs.
both, the m&h and the mt 235/60/15 ET radial asked about, are great tire choices. You can't go wrong, if you fit the hp range stated above. Above that power, it's more than just tire choice that will get you traction. The MT is going to be a little more well mannered on the street because it is not a bias-ply. So you can air them up, drive, race, w/e...and they will last better to that of a bias-ply DR.
A bias-ply will hook better than steel-belted DR, if all else is equal. The difference is in the sidewall. They will wrinkle when some power is applied, and thats what gets you hooked and moving.
but on that note, the sidewalls are less stable, the steering feels more 'dead', and it's definately sketchier to drive on the street with.
For ease of use, the m&h are great. They are bias-ply. They are only 25.4". They are narrower. They are likely lighter. They will fit easier.
The MT is also great. They are taller. They are wider. They are steel-belted and can be driven on the street, and likely will last a lil better than the m&h s&s. Since they are a larger tire, rim offset/clearance will be more of a concern. Being 'low', 'flush', etc. will no longer be an option.
Hope this helps a bit.
Yes that really does help a lot, and I greatly appreciate it. I am in the same boat as you as far as what you stated above about your car not being a dd and not worrying about sacrificing ride quality.
You, and a lot of the other guys have brought up great points on this matter. In the beginning i was steering more toward the mt's since I see a lot of supra's and other big power cars running them. The Hoosiers for that same reason plus the lettering on them is sick:readclose:lol:
I've learned a lot more about the m&h tires and they seem to be a great choice as well, but until now most people I knew that were running them were only running them because of fitment.