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2005 Neon SRT4
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
  1. Are motor mount inserts a good in-between from a standard replacement compared to solid mounts?
  2. If so, any suggestions on where to get some? Many/most of the threads I've seen recommend sellers who no longer have these in stock (Modern Performance, etc.)
  3. Most of the sets I see have 2 pairs - do I not need one for the Center Mount (Mount from Hell)??
  4. What's a good price-range to avoid shitty products (MP used to have them for $25)?
Current Goals: Basic maintenance to bring my car back (as close as possible) to original stock performance, with the ultimate goal of safely participating in entry-level autocross events by this summer. 165k in mileage, and I only drive it once or twice a week... I'm saving HP gains for after the basics are settled and I gain more experience.

Background: Ordered top/center/bottom mounts from RockAuto. After watching some how-two videos and reading threads on the forum, I began to doubt the integretiy of the standard replacement. Am I overthinking this?

Upgrades/Maintenance for the next week or so:
  • Oil and Transmission Fluid
  • BC Coilovers
  • Top/center/bottom motor monuts
  • Look for other shit that's wrong with my car
I'm about to have my car on jack stands for a while and I'd like to get as much done in one go as possible. I'm starting to hit a wall and experiencing indecision paralysis, so I'm posting this hoping someone can snap me out of it...
 

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Still for sale. I run the reds in both the upper and lower motor mounts. Like them a lot and they work great, but I often consider solid mounts in my quest for more control though.
 

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I JUST put in the Prothane mounts in my car in May/June timeframe, and they are amazing. I'm running the stock struts, replaced those all around also, and got new tires a month or so later. Nearly every mount you can imagine, I replaced. I didn't replace the engine mounts but I did use the poly road inserts from Modern.

I was concerned that I'd notice the difference with shaky vibrating steering wheel, but honestly other than once in a long while when the AC kicks on, I don't ever notice it. Handling is crisp, super tight, a lot tighter than stock but one thing to remember is that "stock" was with 80k miles. I wasn't really going to put in all new stock bushings, test them, then put in the prothane just to see the comparison lol.

I wasn't sure how hard it would be, but there are some phenomenal threads on here for getting it done, the toughest part was torching out the old bushings and being very careful not to ruin the sleeves that you have to reuse.

I also run the H-Brace and traction bars from B-Woody, as far as suspension goes.

I don't know if Energy Suspension still sells their product, I never bought it because some of the threads here talked about issues with them.

Read through this thread before you get into it, I laid in bed a couple nights a week during the month it took to get my parts (backordered from Prothane themselves, not Modern's fault) and thoroughly read through everything I'd need.


You'll either need a good set of tools and a decent home garage, or go somewhere that has one. I got away with a few tricks (using a bottle jack and the rear cross member of the car as a reverse press to push in some of the bushings) but I'd say on a scale of 1 to 5, if you replace ALL your bushings you are at a 3 to 4 area of difficulty, probably closer to 3? Some of it was though was really grimy, irritating, and a lot more difficult than I thought. I had to rebuild my Hbrace and traction bars though with all new hardware, and pull them off twice because the transmission had to come out of the car three times before I got THAT correct.

You can potentially run into some wierd snit, I had to spread the body apart a bit to get the horizontal LCA bushings in place, the bolt clamped everything together tight but wow what a total f'ing pain in the arse that was. Also, the transmission insert bushing (separate part, but get that and the motor mount ones if you are doing this, it all goes together) I had to drop the freaking transmission way down, grind off the nubs, put everything back up into place with a lot of "large screwdriver maneuvering ".

So in all honestly it's hard for me to do an accurate difficulty rating because of all the BS that was going on DURING the time I was putting all the bushings in haha.

Oh and I went with the road, not the more extreme race. I don't do much racing aside from some quarter miles here and there at tracks.
 

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<b>I'm starting to hit a wall and experiencing indecision paralysis </b>

I know ALL about this, before May in above post, I let my car sit, from Oct 2018 till May 2021. VERY dumb, because I was too scared to get into it. Once I started, it wasn't near as bad as I thought. My indecision had more to do with being REALLY bummed about my first transmission repair going catastrophically bad after 100 miles of driving, and being worried that I'd mess it up worse.

You've got a plan, and some goals, now just start wrenching :)
 

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2005 Neon SRT4
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Still for sale. I run the reds in both the upper and lower motor mounts. Like them a lot and they work great, but I often consider solid mounts in my quest for more control though.
Oh wow, thank you. I went ahead and ordered them, and was able to find the center insert as well. Not sure how I ended up with an "out of stock" message when I tried it myself...

I JUST put in the Prothane mounts in my car in May/June timeframe, and they are amazing. I'm running the stock struts, replaced those all around also, and got new tires a month or so later. Nearly every mount you can imagine, I replaced. I didn't replace the engine mounts but I did use the poly road inserts from Modern.
...
Oh and I went with the road, not the more extreme race. I don't do much racing aside from some quarter miles here and there at tracks.
Thank you for all the info! I'm thinking to get my posted list done when my parts come in, then do the above next. What a read...

I ended up going with the race since I don't daily mine.

I know ALL about this, before May in above post, I let my car sit, from Oct 2018 till May 2021. VERY dumb, because I was too scared to get into it. Once I started, it wasn't near as bad as I thought. My indecision had more to do with being REALLY bummed about my first transmission repair going catastrophically bad after 100 miles of driving, and being worried that I'd mess it up worse.

You've got a plan, and some goals, now just start wrenching
That's almost creepy - those are practically the exact same dates my car was retired and then brought back out of retirement... I cranked it and drove it around the block from time to time, but I'd like to bring it back to its old glory now that I have a garage.
 

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RTShadow gave you a good response. Personally, if i was looking at doing urethane inserts, i would just do the DIY project of filling in the stock mounts with urethane (or window weld, if that's even still a thing.)

I've had different variations of aftermarket mounts on my car and I've always preferred the feel of more solid mounts to floppy rubber mounts. vibrations don't bother me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
RTShadow gave you a good response. Personally, if i was looking at doing urethane inserts, i would just do the DIY project of filling in the stock mounts with urethane (or window weld, if that's even still a thing.)
With that in mind, I think I'll hold onto the old mounts and give it a try someday in the future as a side project.
 

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I too have the prothane inserts from Modern performance. I had the street ones from 2012-2019 and switched to the Race ones since then. Both are good and hold up very well. The race ones are a bit stiffer but not as stiff as solid mounts. Definitely recommend either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I too have the prothane inserts from Modern performance. I had the street ones from 2012-2019 and switched to the Race ones since then. Both are good and hold up very well. The race ones are a bit stiffer but not as stiff as solid mounts. Definitely recommend either.
Thank you, I also got the race ones. They came in the other day, so now I just gotta force them in place.
 

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Wheel Tire Land vehicle Car Automotive tail & brake light


Material property Liquid Font Office supplies Carmine


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Just a few photos from when I took care of mine. My driveway still has some black splotches from all the torching burning etc. It was some dirty work. That bottom picture, that's how I pressed a couple of the rear bushings into place. I wasn't going to pay 50 bucks per (100 dollars for the pair) to take them to the local shop to have them use their press, and I'm a half hour away from our farm, so I got innovative with a bottle jack and a couple pieces of 2x4. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update:

The inserts don't fit.

Only after trying to get them on, I noticed this gem:
Font Screenshot Number Terrestrial plant Document


I'm going to try sanding down the insert a bit since there really isn't enough material on the mount to make room. I got the mounts from rock auto thinking they were a simple stock replacement. Wish me luck...
 

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View attachment 148484

View attachment 148485

View attachment 148486

Just a few photos from when I took care of mine. My driveway still has some black splotches from all the torching burning etc. It was some dirty work. That bottom picture, that's how I pressed a couple of the rear bushings into place. I wasn't going to pay 50 bucks per (100 dollars for the pair) to take them to the local shop to have them use their press, and I'm a half hour away from our farm, so I got innovative with a bottle jack and a couple pieces of 2x4. :)
I’ve had great results with moog problem solvers, solid metal spherical rear lca joints

My urethane were crap after a year, and accelerating would cause the car to change lanes

Here’s the link to pictureshttps://www.srtforums.com/threads/torn-lca-bushing-cause-of-my-problems.750978/post-11495770
 

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RTShadow gave you a good response. Personally, if i was looking at doing urethane inserts, i would just do the DIY project of filling in the stock mounts with urethane (or window weld, if that's even still a thing.)

I've had different variations of aftermarket mounts on my car and I've always preferred the feel of more solid mounts to floppy rubber mounts. vibrations don't bother me.
I read about using window weld type material to fill the motor mounts her in 2004.
But some of the guys who did that found that the material the used had melted.

I later (2005) had Nemo's filled mounts (all 3) and didn't notice any vibration per se.
But my car felt so much "better" after I reverted to stock mounts.
It seemed a little quieter too.
Can't really put my finger on it, but I was just more relaxed over a long trip.

The real reason I reverted was because my car would not hold HOM (S3+Toys).
And I felt that maybe the filled mounts may have caused more vibration to be "seen" by the knock sensor.

Stock mounts made no difference but I liked their feel on a long trip and sold Nemos mounts.

The real fix for holding HOM was C16 with a splash of Unleaded 100 octane race gas,
and a Mopar Delete pipe which made the Mopar exhaust incredibly loud...
 
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