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Some of the stuff the 2.2 guys do can apply, such as boost controllers and basic mods. But I am thinking the fuel system is a bit different these days. Is the SRT-4 a returnless fuel system?

Most of the 2.2 mods are considered "cobbling" by todays standards of electronic boost controllers, high dollar BOVs, fancy Spearco intercoolers, and so on. But, 10sec cars that are homemade for the most part are pretty respectable.

Just wait til some of the old school 2.2 guys get a hold of a few used SRT-4s, then the free and ingenious mods will come out. You will see 12sec timeslips for very minimal modded SRTs, and 10sec street driven SRTs.
 

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Yes, those techniques can be used. I'm proud to say that I've been a member of TeamOmni for several years. :) The electronics on the SRT-4 are definitely different, but not too different. There are some basic turbo performance principles that will apply on any car.

1) If you're going to add boost, you must add fuel!
2) If you are going to trick the computer so that you can go past overboost cutout, you must have a way to add more fuel. The computer won't do it for you.
3) Monitor a/f ratio and/or EGT. Monitoring both is better.
4) Make small changes, one at a time. Mistakes can be very expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mike,
I ordered a BLITZ SBC-DC EBC, and I'm worndering what is the best way to add fuel? I've read on these boards if you run lean, expect to rebuild your motor cause it will blow. Nobody has mentioned how to give the engine more fuel!! I know the ECU won't do it. I've also read all of the debates on the different types of A/F guages and I'm still confused on that one!! For now, I'm only going to run 15-16 psi at the track and 11 psi as a daily driver to be safe. Additional help/comments are greatly appreciated!!

Thanks,
Andre
 

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dont try bleeds they dont work :roll: :wink: 8) :lol: :twisted:
 

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I've never owned an EBC so I can't tell you much about them. I don't think they do anything to add any fuel. In order to avoid a law suit they probably have warnings that come with their product. Personally, I would install it and use it just like they recommend.

Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain, a/f ratio indicators are very helpful. I would get one. Personally, I like the ones here:
www.dawesdevices.com
His are small enough to mount almost anywhere, they're simple to read, they don't bounce around, and he's a turbo Dodge guy.

You should be safe at 15 psi boost. Probably even 16 psi, but I wouldn't say for sure. Short spikes are not a problem (heck, yesterday I spiked to about 22 psi), but if you hold the boost at levels higher than stock you're looking for trouble.

You can add fuel by cranking up the fuel pressure, but that's not feasible on our cars because the regulator is in the tank and is not adjustable. The aftermarket will no doubt help us out here.

You can add fuel by getting bigger (higher flowing) injectors, which are not available yet (AFAIK).

You can add fuel by modifying the computer, which is also not available right now.

My opinion: I wouldn't drive with a constant boost of more than 15 psi until you install an a/f ratio or EGT.
 

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the Dawes Device AF is the shizzit in the TD world i'll add my approval
 

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I think that Gary Donovan of Relentless Racing
( http://www.relentlessracing.com/ ) has recently
gotten an SRT-4. So stand by. I don't know him personnaly
but anyone that can make a Reliant run 10s knows his stuff.
 

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Doesn’t he also have an 11 second minivan as well called mini me?
The engine can add fuel up until the point where boost exceeds the MAP sensor. Then it just adds up to that level and you start to lean out from there.
Just a little factoid: Stock cars run rich from the factory to keep everything safe and reliable. Its once you start to lean out the stock mixtures where you can pick up some power. Do you think that dodge would have the car be running lean at 15psi? I don’t think so. It’s to close to the factory max boost levels. What happens if you are running an old fuel filter, would the car then run lean and cost dodge a new engine? Nah.
They make the cars run fat and safe to cover there butts incase of Joe dumbass who doesn’t know what he is doing and never maintains the car.
These old Mopar turbo guys aren’t especially talented. They just apply common sense to the car and come out with impressive results.
Loose the excess weight, up the boost, big honkin exhaust or lack thereof, big FMIC, Big fuel pump, ADJ. FPR.
Same thing that DSMers do.
Yes bleeder valves work!

Evan
 

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I beg to differ on the not talented part. Spend some time on Team Omni archives and look at the tecnical level of some of the discussions that take place. http://www.escribe.com/automotive/american/teamomni/ And remember, these folks started doing this a long time ago.
 

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GLHS837 said:
I beg to differ on the not talented part. Spend some time on Team Omni archives and look at the tecnical level of some of the discussions that take place. http://www.escribe.com/automotive/american/teamomni/ And remember, these folks started doing this a long time ago.
I wasnt "dissing" them, just stating exactly what you are saying, they have experience on working with Dodge turbos.
 

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I think Cliff Sebring is the mastermind behind mini-me. his stuff, and the dawes device are not meant to be pretty, they are meant to help you go faster. You want pretty, like you said, you need to build your own faceplate...

Remember, behind most of the expensive pretty gauges, are $2.00 in raw parts...

Dale
 

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Seriously it isnt very hard to add extra fuel if you wanted to. It may sound crude but adding 5th, 6th, and 7th cold start injectors can probably get an SRT well over 20+ psi of boost.

I have been messing with the old 2.2 Turbo dodges for a long time but since chrysler uses the speed density system things are easy as hell to play with since the computer is thinking one thing and you can do other things.

I think for all the new SRT owners it would be a good idea to check out:

www.thedodgegarage.com

Lots of good info here to make more boost :-D
 

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I have to jump in on this one. I dont want to see any of us blowing up our brand new engines.

I have planned soon (1000-1500 miles) to hit the dyno, with A/F monitoring. I will have a base run, and then boost upped to monitor A/F so as to determine a SAFE , boost level with STOCK ECU/ FUEL INJECTORS.

Also do some more reading on those A/F gauges in the link. They are not very accurate since the rely on the STOCK o2 sensor. Wideband monitoring would be the ideal setup, so I plan on getting on the DYNO to know what I can and cannot do.

Now i wonder about this:
Lets say you increase fuel pressure, doesnt the ECU control the amount of time the injectors *pump* fuel out?
If so doesnt upping the fuel pressure become a moot point?
 

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Well even though the computer controls the PULSES(not how much goes through) of the injectors when you turn up the fuel pressure you are forcing more fuel through at each pulse since there is more line pressure.

The problem with all of chryslers cars is that they have went to a dead head system where there is no fuel return line so you can install and adj fpr. The only way to be able to change fuel pressure is to send more voltage to the fuel pump via lets say a Boost-a-pump from Kenne Bell or to take out the stock regulator in the tank and run a return line to the front of the car with an adj. regulator so there you can change fuel pressure.

Hope that makes sense to you.
 

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cali said:
I have to jump in on this one. I dont want to see any of us blowing up our brand new engines.

I have planned soon (1000-1500 miles) to hit the dyno, with A/F monitoring. I will have a base run, and then boost upped to monitor A/F so as to determine a SAFE , boost level with STOCK ECU/ FUEL INJECTORS.
Nice idea. Thanks for taking upon yourself to help others.

Also do some more reading on those A/F gauges in the link. They are not very accurate since the rely on the STOCK o2 sensor. Wideband monitoring would be the ideal setup, so I plan on getting on the DYNO to know what I can and cannot do.
Oh but they are very useful since most people are not going to run a "wide band" o2 sensor in their cars. This gauge is for people whose cars are tuned by there own hands, not from hired help.

Now i wonder about this:
Lets say you increase fuel pressure, doesn’t the ECU control the amount of time the injectors *pump* fuel out?
If so doesnt upping the fuel pressure become a moot point?
No. The ECU does not "Know" that you are upping the pressure.
You are forcing more fuel through the injectors over the same injector on time than at stock pressure. Effectively increasing the size of the injectors.
This can be a useful tool to bridge the gap between stock injectors and upgraded ones. Using too much pressure will cause over rich conditions off boost and at extreme pressures jam the injectors open or closed. Bad :(
 

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Good discussion here so far.

You are forcing more fuel through the injectors over the same injector on time than at stock pressure. Effectively increasing the size of the injectors.
This can be a useful tool to bridge the gap between stock injectors and upgraded ones. Using too much pressure will cause over rich conditions off boost and at extreme pressures jam the injectors open or closed. Bad
Thats what I dont like....someone need to crack this damn ECU!

The problem with all of chryslers cars is that they have went to a dead head system where there is no fuel return line so you can install and adj fpr. The only way to be able to change fuel pressure is to send more voltage to the fuel pump via lets say a Boost-a-pump from Kenne Bell or to take out the stock regulator in the tank and run a return line to the front of the car with an adj. regulator so there you can change fuel pressure.
Still a bit foggy on that one...I had a civic, and installing a FPR was a no brainer. When u say run a line? Do you mean run a line back to the tank?

Also I realise that most people won't do wideband tuning, but you owe it to yourself or your engine to get it properly tuned (wideband) at least once.
I have heard quite a bit that those led A/F guages are horrible especially on Forecd Induction engines.
 

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cali said:
Also I realise that most people won't do wideband tuning, but you owe it to yourself or your engine to get it properly tuned (wideband) at least once.
I have heard quite a bit that those led A/F guages are horrible especially on Forecd Induction engines.[/b]
Ahh but these www.dawesdevices.com arnt "those" blinky light meters.
Their gradations are different to give the user what is important:
.85-.99 O2 voltage.
This is one that I use--> www.jumptronix.com
Not as easy to read while on the track but usefull anyhow for tuning purposes.
 
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