hook it up to a boost source. Like the vac lines attached to the throttle body. I think that should work I don’t really fully understand the problem. I’m surprised you don’t like the HKS don’t you know your supposed to love that. it’s what people dish out hundreds of dollars for.
Modification Help
Okay so I need a little help, new to srts but not car scene.
Info on my car:
04 srt4
AGP wastegate
Modern throttle body
Mopar blue plate stock bov
Trinity tuner
full 3” Catless
Intake
Solid mounts everywhere 😂
Act clutch
Front mount
Hard pipes
Mopar gauges
And a thousand other mods
( I need a A:F setup but haven’t decided which wife and type setup is best )
So I’m trying to delete solenoids but keep stock bov with blue plate ( I hate my hks sound personally so I went back to this setup ) I’m pulling ecm controlled boost with the waste gate wastegate is Plummed to the turbo where do I plum the stock bov to insure it works, I hooked to solenoid and it’s getting no boost it’s open full time thanks for any help
Info on my car:
04 srt4
AGP wastegate
Modern throttle body
Mopar blue plate stock bov
Trinity tuner
full 3” Catless
Intake
Solid mounts everywhere 😂
Act clutch
Front mount
Hard pipes
Mopar gauges
And a thousand other mods
( I need a A:F setup but haven’t decided which wife and type setup is best )
So I’m trying to delete solenoids but keep stock bov with blue plate ( I hate my hks sound personally so I went back to this setup ) I’m pulling ecm controlled boost with the waste gate wastegate is Plummed to the turbo where do I plum the stock bov to insure it works, I hooked to solenoid and it’s getting no boost it’s open full time thanks for any help
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Yeah hks sounds so ricer too squeaky. I’m just going to delete it and use a turbo xs I guess. The problem I had was the stock “bov” was open not allowing any boost pressure to build. And no matter where I hooked it it seemed to stay open so I just ended up redoing all the vacuum lines. Thanks
Maybe there is something wrong with it that needs repairing?Yeah hks sounds so ricer too squeaky. I’m just going to delete it and use a turbo xs I guess. The problem I had was the stock “bov” was open not allowing any boost pressure to build. And no matter where I hooked it it seemed to stay open so I just ended up redoing all the vacuum lines. Thanks
That is odd, I thought the stock BOV was just a plate that channels air. I'm not sure how that could go bad, aside from perhaps not having a good seal?
Even though it didn't say anything about using a sealant, I used a bit of ultrablack silicone on mine, I was paranoid about it leaking.
Even though it didn't say anything about using a sealant, I used a bit of ultrablack silicone on mine, I was paranoid about it leaking.
I was talking about the HKS sounding squeeky.That is odd, I thought the stock BOV was just a plate that channels air. I'm not sure how that could go bad, aside from perhaps not having a good seal?
Even though it didn't say anything about using a sealant, I used a bit of ultrablack silicone on mine, I was paranoid about it leaking.
He said his stock BOV wasn't holding pressure.I was talking about the HKS sounding squeeky.
I know, but I was talking about why the HKS sounds squeeky.He said his stock BOV wasn't holding pressure.
If it were me, I'd:
1. replace the leaky, stock BOV (Surge Valve) with a BOP with a nice copper gasket.
2. fix the HKS BOV so it down't sound squeeky - they usually don't.
Many people install the blue plate on upside-down and therefore it is a constant boost leak.
As for vacuum lines with the blue solenoid connector up:
top port goes to boost source on turbo
middle port to the surge valve
bottom port to vacuum on the TB
As for vacuum lines with the blue solenoid connector up:
top port goes to boost source on turbo
middle port to the surge valve
bottom port to vacuum on the TB
Thanks for replies. Car was botched by previous owner and I’m trying to sort it out.
So I upgraded to turbo xs rfl and hard pipe, billet throttle body and agp wastegate from modern performance, stage 2 clutch and billet shift fork
next question I have is, how can Iidentify what injectors are in the car currently or will they work with the current setup. I’m going to order a tuner ( not any real tuners close to my city that I can find ) but I want to make sure everything I need to change : upgrade is done before I try and tune it or drive it.
I basically got the car 3/4 thru a swap and I’ve been slowly fixing and finishing things as I go along.
So I upgraded to turbo xs rfl and hard pipe, billet throttle body and agp wastegate from modern performance, stage 2 clutch and billet shift fork
next question I have is, how can Iidentify what injectors are in the car currently or will they work with the current setup. I’m going to order a tuner ( not any real tuners close to my city that I can find ) but I want to make sure everything I need to change : upgrade is done before I try and tune it or drive it.
I basically got the car 3/4 thru a swap and I’ve been slowly fixing and finishing things as I go along.
Tuner help isn't a huge deal if you are looking for the correct ECU mapping etc. We have a couple on the forums who are awesome. Tuning in person can be a little tougher depending on your location.Thanks for replies. Car was botched by previous owner and I’m trying to sort it out.
So I upgraded to turbo xs rfl and hard pipe, billet throttle body and agp wastegate from modern performance, stage 2 clutch and billet shift fork
next question I have is, how can Iidentify what injectors are in the car currently or will they work with the current setup. I’m going to order a tuner ( not any real tuners close to my city that I can find ) but I want to make sure everything I need to change : upgrade is done before I try and tune it or drive it.
I basically got the car 3/4 thru a swap and I’ve been slowly fixing and finishing things as I go along.
I will eventually get around to getting it tuned once it’s where I want it. But I just basically want to make sure it’s not going to run super rich or lean until I get to that point. I do want to daily it as I finish upgrading a few things.Tuner help isn't a huge deal if you are looking for the correct ECU mapping etc. We have a couple on the forums who are awesome. Tuning in person can be a little tougher depending on your location.
my experience is previous boosted Honda’s and VWs and what I wanted to know is by upgrading the external waste gate and removing it from solenoid controlled and adding an aftermarket bov will I need to tune it to drive it or just set boost manually on wastegate to around stock area and what boost and AFR is optimal.
car has no cat. 1 upstream o2 and downstream is my AEM wideband
I am currently running a borla mopar turboback exhaust, cat deleted, AGP WGA at 15 PSI, I have the up 02 but no down 02 and I haven't installed my wideband yet, it's been in the box for like 10 years lol.
The biggest thing I have to be careful with is that the ECU no longer controls boost on startup. On the stock SRT-4, if I remember correctly, as the car warms up, the ECU allows more boost to the engine, basically in 3 stages. It limits the boost significantly upon startup, then a little bit later it allows more (I used to know the exact numbers, years ago). Once the engine warms up, the ECU will determine boost based on things like elevation, temp, load, how hard you are on the throttle, and it targets boost accordingly. With the AGP WGA, I'm just on a flat full 15 as soon as I get on it, so I have to be careful when the car isn't warmed up, to avoid stressing an engine that isn't ready.
I want to say there's an overboost fuel cut if the boost is being controlled by the ECU, on stock turbo it might be 18 psi, and by hard fuel cut I mean it hard cuts, it's not soft. I have never had it happen though. It's there for obvious reasons.
I don't know too many people running the AGP WGA anymore, with the ECU unlocked there are so many things you can do and still maintain the protection from the ECU from overboost/lean fuel/etc. I'm a bit of a dinosaur because I have so many parts I haven't installed and I'm still running my 2008 setup basically.
The biggest thing I have to be careful with is that the ECU no longer controls boost on startup. On the stock SRT-4, if I remember correctly, as the car warms up, the ECU allows more boost to the engine, basically in 3 stages. It limits the boost significantly upon startup, then a little bit later it allows more (I used to know the exact numbers, years ago). Once the engine warms up, the ECU will determine boost based on things like elevation, temp, load, how hard you are on the throttle, and it targets boost accordingly. With the AGP WGA, I'm just on a flat full 15 as soon as I get on it, so I have to be careful when the car isn't warmed up, to avoid stressing an engine that isn't ready.
I want to say there's an overboost fuel cut if the boost is being controlled by the ECU, on stock turbo it might be 18 psi, and by hard fuel cut I mean it hard cuts, it's not soft. I have never had it happen though. It's there for obvious reasons.
I don't know too many people running the AGP WGA anymore, with the ECU unlocked there are so many things you can do and still maintain the protection from the ECU from overboost/lean fuel/etc. I'm a bit of a dinosaur because I have so many parts I haven't installed and I'm still running my 2008 setup basically.
To avoid being on pcm controlled boost is that something a Diablo trinity tuner can modify? I’m on the fence about getting one to tune withI am currently running a borla mopar turboback exhaust, cat deleted, AGP WGA at 15 PSI, I have the up 02 but no down 02 and I haven't installed my wideband yet, it's been in the box for like 10 years lol.
The biggest thing I have to be careful with is that the ECU no longer controls boost on startup. On the stock SRT-4, if I remember correctly, as the car warms up, the ECU allows more boost to the engine, basically in 3 stages. It limits the boost significantly upon startup, then a little bit later it allows more (I used to know the exact numbers, years ago). Once the engine warms up, the ECU will determine boost based on things like elevation, temp, load, how hard you are on the throttle, and it targets boost accordingly. With the AGP WGA, I'm just on a flat full 15 as soon as I get on it, so I have to be careful when the car isn't warmed up, to avoid stressing an engine that isn't ready.
I want to say there's an overboost fuel cut if the boost is being controlled by the ECU, on stock turbo it might be 18 psi, and by hard fuel cut I mean it hard cuts, it's not soft. I have never had it happen though. It's there for obvious reasons.
I don't know too many people running the AGP WGA anymore, with the ECU unlocked there are so many things you can do and still maintain the protection from the ECU from overboost/lean fuel/etc. I'm a bit of a dinosaur because I have so many parts I haven't installed and I'm still running my 2008 setup basically.
I don't want to answer definitively but I know others here can. I'll need to know too this winter when I put all my Mopar Stage 3 parts on, finally...To avoid being on pcm controlled boost is that something a Diablo trinity tuner can modify? I’m on the fence about getting one to tune with
You will be fine to drive it with the aftermarket bov since it is a speed-density and not a Mass-airflow car. The AGP WGA if looped directly to the turbo means boost is initially by the rate of the internal spring and secondly by the preload on the arm (the adjustable part). For stock tune and map/tip sensor limit, keep it at 17psi and under. Stock injectors for an 03 are pink and stock for 04 05 named stage1s are black with a blue ring at the bottom. Stage 2/3s being entirely black. Post sige-angle photos of what you got installed. If you need a used or new trinity t1000 (the most trusted of the ds handhelds) and/or a tune file, Pm me.
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
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