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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i recently got my car tuned.. and my map sensor seems to be messing up every couple of days anyone know the issue? i keep replacing them with autozone 3 bar map
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
An Autozone MAP will never work. What are your mods? Are you tuned for a 3bar MAP?
only mods are built head 255 walbro fuel pump and hks bov. and yes it’s tuned for 3 bar map on 18 pounds. it works but if i beat on it for 2 days the MAP fries it self. AFR will go to 10 and bog up and etc
 

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I would get a genuine mopar 3bar MAP from modern performance. It is for the caliber, but they make and adapter that they sell too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
only mods are built head 255 walbro fuel pump and hks bov. and yes it’s tuned for 3 bar map on 18 pounds. it works but if i beat on it for 2 days the MAP fries it self. AFR will go to 10 and bog up and etc
I would get a genuine mopar 3bar MAP from modern performance. It is for the caliber, but they make and adapter that they sell too.
you causally think it’s the autozone map sensor? and not a wire issue?
 

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I've never heard of an autozone 3bar sensor being used on any SRT-4, but if you want to check those wires connectivity before you do that, it wouldn't be a bad idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've never heard of an autozone 3bar sensor being used on any SRT-4, but if you want to check those wires connectivity before you do that, it wouldn't be a bad idea.
really? and those are fine except a little wire showing like 1/8 of a copper showing but that’s all i can see wrong
 

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No, I meant to check the wiring all the way back through the harness to the PCM for opens, shorts, etc..
 

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it’s from auto zone and it was dyno tuned with the same brand and bar from autzone
That seems more likely. You say your MAP sensor keeps messing up and fries itself. Could you describe this situation further?

Outside the box thought: Every time you install a sensor, 2 days later things are messed up (though, your symptom list did not include limp mode or a check engine light). Our cars go through some level of learning. I'm guessing you unhook the battery to replace the sensor? Consider unhooking the battery and leaving the car for a awhile. Come back and start it. Is it like you installed a new autozone sensor?
 

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Ok, so then you don't have a 3bar MAP sensor. As long as it was dyno tuned the tuner probably figured that out. I don't know how a MAP sensor could be 'fried' without it being the wrong one or there is a wiring issue.
 

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Another random thought. Speaking out of my ass here, as I'm sure the following is loaded with assumptions.

If a 3BAR sensor is installed -
  • 0 BAR - 0 PSI (In vacuum, technically measured in inches of mercury?)
  • 1 BAR - 14.7 PSI (atmospheric pressure, 0 PSI boost)
  • 2 BAR - 29.4 PSI (14.7 PSI boost)
  • 3 BAR - 44.1 PSI (29.4 PSI boost)
Assuming 5V output for the sensor, 0 BAR = 0V and 3 BAR = 5V
Users boost is 18 PSI (1.3 bar roughly)
On a 3 BAR sensor we would expect 25% plus an additional 1/3 of 5V. Roughly 1.6V

On a 2 BAR sensor, we would expect that same voltage output to be 5V, with the last 4 PSI of boost not being accounted for! If your car was tuned for a 3 BAR sensor and you ran a 2 BAR, I'm of the impression that your car would run fuel and timing tables like you were pushing 30 pounds of boost! This would explain the rich condition. The constant 5V output would further explain the 'fried' sensor.


Again, probably speaking out of my ass. Not sure what I know half the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
That seems more likely. You say your MAP sensor keeps messing up and fries itself. Could you describe this situation further?

Outside the box thought: Every time you install a sensor, 2 days later things are messed up (though, your symptom list did not include limp mode or a check engine light). Our cars go through some level of learning. I'm guessing you unhook the battery to replace the sensor? Consider unhooking the battery and leaving the car for a awhile. Come back and start it. Is it like you installed a new autozone sensor?
yes the first it messes up was 2 days after the dyno it had a check engine light. i couldn’t check but it was hogging one time it didn’t go as i would drive and when i hit the gas it wouldn’t give it gas. it would break up the boost. afr would be 10 and wouldn’t dry correctly. but after i changed the map it worked perfect. every time i go to deep boost a lot ( 15-18) it would mess up after a day or 2. and yes i tried unhooking the battery it work normal for 5 mins than when i gave it gas. not beating on it or anything just normal it messed up so i chnGed it again it’s working perfect
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Another random thought. Speaking out of my ass here, as I'm sure the following is loaded with assumptions.

If a 3BAR sensor is installed -
  • 0 BAR - 0 PSI (In vacuum, technically measured in inches of mercury?)
  • 1 BAR - 14.7 PSI (atmospheric pressure, 0 PSI boost)
  • 2 BAR - 29.4 PSI (14.7 PSI boost)
  • 3 BAR - 44.1 PSI (29.4 PSI boost)
Assuming 5V output for the sensor, 0 BAR = 0V and 3 BAR = 5V
Users boost is 18 PSI (1.3 bar roughly)
On a 3 BAR sensor we would expect 25% plus an additional 1/3 of 5V. Roughly 1.6V

On a 2 BAR sensor, we would expect that same voltage output to be 5V, with the last 4 PSI of boost not being accounted for! If your car was tuned for a 3 BAR sensor and you ran a 2 BAR, I'm of the impression that your car would run fuel and timing tables like you were pushing 30 pounds of boost! This would explain the rich condition. The constant 5V output would further explain the 'fried' sensor.


Again, probably speaking out of my ass. Not sure what I know half the time.
ahh okay. it runs good half the time idle and cruising 14/15 boost 11/12 until the map messes up than it’s bogging in boost and going to 10-15 like crazy
 
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