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Discussion Starter #1
MY car is dumping all boost when on full throttle. In second gear it will spike to ~15 settle down to ~13 for about 1 second, then dump all pressure and sit at -5. The car feels like it is hitting a wall at this point. It will stay at -5 as long as you are at WOT. Here is a list of things I know.

- The car runs fine under normal driving conditions
- It will dump pressure at ~4500 RPM every time
- It occurs in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, & 4th gear. I have not tried 5th.
- If you stay at WOT the car will increase speed, but very very slowly.
- I have held WOT for ~10 seconds after this occurs with no CEL's.

My personal opinion is that the waste gate is being held open, but I do not know how this system works. I tried to do a leak down test last night, but I could only get ~5 psi with my cheap hand pump. I'm not convinced that a boost leak is the problem because of how quickly the pressure is lost. Also becaise the car will spike 15, and hold 13 for a few seconds. Any help here is much appreciated. I live out by DIA and work off 8th and Federal if anyone is interested in seeing this in action. Thanks.

stoddardk
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have the AGP version of the Mopar BOV. It does blow off like as normal.
 

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The car can still have a boost leak & spike to whatever boost. Then as it bleeds off the pressure in the system, the boost gauge will drop like your seeing.

It could be something else such as the WG but a boost leak test should be your 1st check on just about any boost related issue. BTW- A hand pump wont get it done, you'll need an air compressor.

You live in Thornton, hmmm... try PMing Dommo G. I believe he has an air compressor & might help you out. of course some beer or pizza is always a good bribe :readclose
 

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I have a big ass compressor as well I just don't have a leak tester. I also have a floor jack and jack stands to get uner your ride if need be
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My location is out of date. I live by 56th & Tower Road.
I have a home made leak tester, jack, & jack stand. (All at home of course) I have the car with me at work if anyone would be interested in meeting and taking a quick ride.
 

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Don't wanna hi-jack, but these ?'s are related to boost leak testing.

While using the homemade boost leak tester, the ignition should be on but the car not started correct?
How much pressure do you put into the system via tester?
should the system hold the amount of pressure put in or do you keep the air compressor going at the same psi while checking for leaks?

I have never checked for boost leaks or ever witnessed.


Hey stoddardk, I hope you find your problem and it is not serious
 

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Discussion Starter #10
*SRT-4ME* said:
Don't wanna hi-jack, but these ?'s are related to boost leak testing.

While using the homemade boost leak tester, the ignition should be on but the car not started correct?
How much pressure do you put into the system via tester?
should the system hold the amount of pressure put in or do you keep the air compressor going at the same psi while checking for leaks?

I have never checked for boost leaks or ever witnessed.
1) It is my understanding that the ignition is supposed to be on, but the motor not running.
2) You should put about 20 psi into the system, or however much you plan running.
3) I'm pretty sure you will need to keep the air coming. I think I read from Nivo that you will lose about 1 psi per second.

I hope this helps. I do know that the hand pump method was unsuccessful and very tiresome to do.
 

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just a question you didnt replace your plugs by any chance? Or did you already fix the problem.

That triangle BOV should peak at 18 and hold between 15 and 13, are you running more boost than that?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I replaced the plugs about a month ago.
The more I think about it, the more I think the MAP sensor is giving a false reading. This would make the computer open the waste gate fully. My problem with this is no matter how long I hold it at WOT with no boost I don't get any CEL's.
 

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Thinking while I type.... good thing I type slowly....

The wastegate is obviously wide open. The wastegate appears to work, no torn diaphragm, because it will hold boost for a while. The wastegate is controlled by one of the three solenoids. That solenoid must be receiving an 'open' signal from the PCM.

The PCM and the solenoid work, or boost could not be developed.

It is my understanding that the minimum boost that can be held is 4 to 5 psi.

If that means that when the turbo is spinning, the wastegate will always hold at least 4 psi because of the spring, (I'm not sure that is true), then the turbo must be stalling for some reason to allow the system to go back into vacuum.

Or, a major leak could be occurring based on pressure building until the leak happens, then the hose opens up and stays open until everything settles down.

If the MAP sensor is flakey, or a Map Clamp is installed and adjusted crazy, then the PCM could be receiving a bad signal, causing the solenoid to dump boost.

The problem is going to be a simple one, and probably not expensive. You need to eliminate a couple of the options. Borrow a MAP sensor. Carefully inspect all of the intercooler pipes. Swap in a known good WGA, even an aftermarket one. Make sure the rubber boots at the ends of the vacuum lines are not torn, causing the solenoid to be bypassed by a signal leak.

Good luck,
Dale
 

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Are you at full boost when it does this. If so try checking the gap on the plugs. I had a similar problem when i replaced mine. At full boost i would lose spark and my car would basically feel like it shuting down ea. like hitting a wall. I had to regap mine at lik 35 to38 i think. If that doesnt help let me know.
 

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SHrtShft-4 said:
Are you at full boost when it does this. If so try checking the gap on the plugs. I had a similar problem when i replaced mine. At full boost i would lose spark and my car would basically feel like it shuting down ea. like hitting a wall. I had to regap mine at lik 35 to38 i think. If that doesnt help let me know.
spark blowout is like engaging a rev limiter, it won't dump boost all the way to vacuum
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If the MAP is is flaky and giving a bad signal, why am I not getting any kind of CEL's. Could it be just giving a bad signal within its acceptable parameters and still causing boost dump? I have nearly convinced myself that this is the problem, I just need to check it now.
BTW, I really appreciate everyone repsponces to this issue.
 
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