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Basically everything you would look for on an NSRT4. Ask for maintenance records. Take a compresion tester, look for oil leaks. Some have had bad luck with the 4 speed auto's, Most likely the torque struts are bad, so check those. The Watts link in the rear suspension is another thing to check. The LCA bushings most likely are tore.
 

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^^ Exactly. The issue with the 4 speed auto is where people get on boost while in 4th .. over drive, and the over drive clutch can't handle the power so over time it burns up that clutch. It's advised to drop to 3rd before flooring the go peddle. It's best to find a 5 speed manual, but they are hard to find. My wife and I found a factory stage 1 04 PT GT with 5 speed manual. They come with a 05 injectors, turbo blue plate, and staged PCM. Her car also has the factory Hurst shifter, and Boost and coolant temp gauges. I downloaded a DSP Diablo for a srt4. Boost leaks are the most common. If you find one with the traction control light and ABS light on, it's probably a front wheel speed sensor. At least it was on her car. Also look for coolant corrosion at the water temp filler neck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)

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Looks nice and clean. Another concern with PT's in general, the fog lamp multiswitch burns up inside. Lever on the column, and cause the fog lights to stay on thus draining the batteries. Most people don't want to pay for the new multi switch, as it will fail in time too, so they just pull the fog light fuse. We did too.

Becarefull how much power you plan to run through the trans. Even the manual , strong as it is, is not as strong as the NSRT manual.

The PT GT has alot more TQ management in first and 2nd gear till the rpms increase. Very easy to drive, or drive fast. But it is not as fast as a NSRT.

Some ECM's will fail internally and give out false check engine lights for a O2 sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Terse, my 250-260 hp Ion Red Line is powerful enough for me as it it. I am only modding more as the parts are sitting here already. I don't plan on going big, although it would be nice to have a fast car no one expects.
 

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The 41TE is an issue,,, and the reason I sold mine, The OD hub is the weakest point. We had 6 frictions in mine,, and I was still destroying it.. I was pushing a LOT of HP and TQ through it though. Before anyone claims they can build a bullet proof trans for it,, get it in writing the OD hub is covered. AJ Berge, who used to build transmissions for a VERY well know SRT4 team was the one trying to build mine. I gave up, started on a three speed project, then decided I just had enough.

Tom
 

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Terse, my 250-260 hp Ion Red Line is powerful enough for me as it it. I am only modding more as the parts are sitting here already. I don't plan on going big, although it would be nice to have a fast car no one expects.
PT should hold normal power just fine. It's really how you drive it. We are toying with the idea of a custom tune with the Diablo for e85 since we have it all over the place here. Should be good for another 40hp. That is now that the PT is my wifes 2nd car.
 

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The 41TE is an issue,,, and the reason I sold mine, The OD hub is the weakest point. We had 6 frictions in mine,, and I was still destroying it.. I was pushing a LOT of HP and TQ through it though. Before anyone claims they can build a bullet proof trans for it,, get it in writing the OD hub is covered. AJ Berge, who used to build transmissions for a VERY well know SRT4 team was the one trying to build mine. I gave up, started on a three speed project, then decided I just had enough.

Tom
How much power do you think the 5speed man can take DD and what power were you up to?
 

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My 03 PT GT has some electrical gremlins. Dashboard lights will kick in and out. Battery (new) constantly builds up crossion on the terminals. It's very dependant on having good clean ground cables.

It's still suprising how much more gas it burns then the Srt4. I can only average out 20mpg. That's with a lot of highway driving. I'll blame the auto tranny.
 

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It's heavier then a nsrt4. My wife used to get 24mpg, I could get 26mpg hand calc out of a tank of fuel. The auto vs. manual would be the difference, mostly.

Her battery terminals also is corrosive. I just keep them clean. I hate battery terminal grease, but I hear hair spray will work to provide a barrier, so I thought I'd give that a try.
 

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I luv my Pt, have had 2 and find them reliable and fun. Huge sleeper status that nvr gets old ! Lots of room for cargo, we mostly run with the rear seats out(100 lb saving), have transported everything from rocks to a washer & dryer(separately). Usually low 15's stock, but easily modded. Downsides are; 4x4 wheel gaps from factory, not so great gas mileage, poor under hood room for major repairs. Never heard of issues with the getrag, but supposedly the clutch fails after 300 hp. I last dynoed @ 260 whp(ego buster Mustang dyno), and roadrace/drag often on stock clutch with no issues
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Have the newer composite intake manifold which mopar started using in '05, bigger automatic throttle body(52 mm), FM adj wastegate, 3" 02 housing and downpipe with high flow cat to stock muffler, hard pipes, air box mod with K&N. Not too much really. When the Pt dynod the 260 I think it was spiking about 22 then falling to about 16 psi. At those levels it's necessary to have a/f gauge and scan gauge to monitor knock, and prob 94 octane.
With that setup I went to the strip on a very hot day and forgot that it had a mix of 91 and 94, subsequently got too much knock and compromised the head gasket:frown: With it apart the head and exhaust manifold were ported. Porting the ex. manifold has eliminated spiking and 15 psi is a nice dd 91 octane ride:smile:
 

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How much power do you think the 5speed man can take DD and what power were you up to?
Stay below 300hp and your clutch will thank you. I was 320, (WG only) sometimes would run 18psi boost which put me in the 350hp range. It made dyno pulls of 400hp when AJ Berge (Hemituner) and I were playing with it. my 12.1 pass was at 19psi boost.

Tom
 

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Can anyone explain to me why the PT has more lag in 1st and 2nd till about 3500rpm compared to a srt? I thought it was pcm programming so I down loaded the srt Diablo.... figured it would change but it didn't. Maybe it's in the PT ecm and is not something over written with a tuner? No boost leaks, copper plugs at .035-.038..... normal stuff. I have a spare 05 srt4 pcm thought maybe I'd just plug it in to the pt.... I figure it won't work, vin number won't match etc. Any thoughts?
 

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Never driven a SRT4 but did not think the lag was bad on a PT. I drove an old Daytona Turbo Z auto and that is my opinion of bad lag. On my PT tune I had the DSP programmer keep my boost under 12 psi in 1st for traction issues. Running E85 is the bomb if you have a gas station close by. Duster's base tune with the injectors he sales idles like stock but has a big power increase. I picked up a boost box but have not hooked it up yet. Did you log with the DSP to see where your boost comes on at?
 

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Up until last December the PT was my wifes DD. Now she has a suv for DD so I never strayed from the base DSP tune. I checked for knock and stuff and it was all good, so I left it well enough alone. My new SRT build will be on E85, as we have it every where in my town. I told my wife the other day now that she doesn't DD her PT if she wanted we could custom tune the DSP and write a E85 tune, she said come summer that would be cool. We like to hit the drag strip in the summer for Friday night drags, and she loves racing her PT against the Honda guys cause they get so mad. She cuts a normal light, but power comes on slower then a stupid civic..... so it appears the civic won the race till he reads his slip at the end :clap:

I think the PT has alot more boost control / compared to the srt4. Possibly because the trans and axles are not as strong as the srt. All guess work on my part though, so it may just be her car.

Have you had any issues with E85 with the PT? I've heard the srt4 is pretty E85 compatible expect for the fuel pump sending unit. I've heard the 04 unit is better though.
 

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My sending unit went down about a month ago. I have been on gas tune for about a year since I moved from 1 city to another. I started running a full tank of E85 back in 2012 but would switch to gas for the winter. I am not really any further away form the station I bought E85, just have not hit the track lately and the gas would get 260 miles to the tank vs 200 miles on E85, mostly city driving. I am still on the stock fuel pump and need to upgrade so I will mess with the sender then. I moved from an apartment to a house with a garage so I hope to get to the fuel mod soon. Still need to do the timing belt, water pump, radiator that has a sloooow leak, boost box, put on the S3 47lb turbo setup, ect.....
 

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Good to know about the mileage difference in the car.

I cleaned some TB sensors today on her PT, and we went for a test drive. after it warmed up there was a god awful squeal coming from the engine. Popped the hood, and narrowed it down to a vacuum source. If I gave it just the slight throttle the squeal went away. Drove home with no issues. Further narrowed it down to a lower intake gasket leak. I found the 2 top out side bolts to be really loose, and the top middle a little loose. I couldn't reach the lower bolts. Put it all back together and the noise went away. However when I spray the lower intake (aluminum) gasket area it will idle rough. RPM needle stays smooth, but you can see and hear the engine shudder. So the lower gasket must be bad, and allowing air in, at least at idle.

I did increase her fuel 2% from 3k-7k WOT, seems to pull a little harder. Maybe I just haven't driven it enough lately. lol.
 
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