Tools? Make sure to get rod bolt stretch gauge. From everything I've been reading and after talking to Darrell Cox this is very important and often overlooked.
List and pics of my engine build
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Pics and list of my engine build!
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I am bringing my engine block/parts to Ron's speed shop to get honed,cleaned and balanced. Just fiqured i would post up what i have bought and plan on buying. Let me know what you think of it and what you would do different.
LIST OF WHAT I HAVE
DCR teflon and cerramic coated 20. over Weisco pistons machined by DCR to 8.5 comp.
DCR CROWER rods machined my DCR
DCR crank straps and bedplate
DCR tensioner
DCR oiling kit including special crank scraper because of the crank straps/dipstick
DCR race head
DCR 5 layer headgasket
DCR head stud bolts will be ordered soon.
FNF cryo treated crank
Modernperformance calico treated rod and main bearings
Regular Crower stage 2 cams
crane springs/retainers
The new Fidanza cam gears(not the ones that crack)
ARP BOLTS holding the bottom end together
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I am bringing my engine block/parts to Ron's speed shop to get honed,cleaned and balanced. Just fiqured i would post up what i have bought and plan on buying. Let me know what you think of it and what you would do different.
LIST OF WHAT I HAVE
DCR teflon and cerramic coated 20. over Weisco pistons machined by DCR to 8.5 comp.
DCR CROWER rods machined my DCR
DCR crank straps and bedplate
DCR tensioner
DCR oiling kit including special crank scraper because of the crank straps/dipstick
DCR race head
DCR 5 layer headgasket
DCR head stud bolts will be ordered soon.
FNF cryo treated crank
Modernperformance calico treated rod and main bearings
Regular Crower stage 2 cams
crane springs/retainers
The new Fidanza cam gears(not the ones that crack)
ARP BOLTS holding the bottom end together
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
I have it. and all of the other mopar tools need for the build.turbojack said:Tools? Make sure to get rod bolt stretch gauge. From everything I've been reading and after talking to Darrell Cox this is very important and often overlooked.
Cool, I'm basically in the middle of doing something similar right now. I cant imagine how people are doing the motor without the Mopar tools for the damper and crank gear.
If you don't have one, I have an engine pre-oiler you can borrow when you have it assembled and want to insure it has oil throughout the block prior to first time start up. Its simple to use and IMO makes big time sense to do after assembling a fresh engine.
If you don't have one, I have an engine pre-oiler you can borrow when you have it assembled and want to insure it has oil throughout the block prior to first time start up. Its simple to use and IMO makes big time sense to do after assembling a fresh engine.
Thanks, I do not have that. If my friend doesn't have it, I will borrow it from you. I appreciate it.turbojack said:Cool, I'm basically in the middle of doing something similar right now. I cant imagine how people are doing the motor without the Mopar tools for the damper and crank gear.
If you don't have one, I have an engine pre-oiler you can borrow when you have it assembled and want to insure it has oil throughout the block prior to first time start up. Its simple to use and IMO makes big time sense to do after assembling a fresh engine.
No problem just send me a PM if you need it. Attached is the PDF for it, if your buddy does engines and does not have this or something that does the same thing tell him to get one, its well worth it. Once he uses it a couple of times he will never do another engine with out it.
If he knows about re manufactured engines and he's sees it's made by ATK he might hesitate. Personally I would never purchase or install an ATK motor but this pre-oiler from them works perfectly.
If he knows about re manufactured engines and he's sees it's made by ATK he might hesitate. Personally I would never purchase or install an ATK motor but this pre-oiler from them works perfectly.
Attachments
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Thanks brother!turbojack said:No problem just send me a PM if you need it. Attached is the PDF for it, if your buddy does engines and does not have this or something that does the same thing tell him to get one, its well worth it. Once he uses it a couple of times he will never do another engine with out it.
If he knows about re manufactured engines and he's sees it's made by ATK he might hesitate. Personally I would never purchase or install an ATK motor but this pre-oiler from them works perfectly.
Anyone else? any pros or cons?
cant wait to see it done mike!
I have a safc now but as soon as the build is done. I will have the aem standalone or spectre ems pro.SpeedEuphoria said:what electroncs?
i'd deffinately get the chamber and valve heads coated too. imo you'd get more power out of it with less detonation and proper timing than porting the head. Ask DCR and see what their opinion is on this.
I have spoke with DCR about a built head. I never asked them about coated valve heads. I have seen in the past the coating will reduce the heat on theduster360 said:i'd deffinately get the chamber and valve heads coated too. imo you'd get more power out of it with less detonation and proper timing than porting the head. Ask DCR and see what their opinion is on this.
valve heads but it does not increase power. I am flow benching the head before and after the porting and 5 angle valve job. I will show the numbers.
After speaking to DCR I bought a DCR race head. I am so poor right now.:crying:darooke said:I have spoke with DCR about a built head. I never asked them about coated valve heads. I have seen in the past the coating will reduce the heat on theduster360 said:i'd deffinately get the chamber and valve heads coated too. imo you'd get more power out of it with less detonation and proper timing than porting the head. Ask DCR and see what their opinion is on this.
valve heads but it does not increase power. I am flow benching the head before and after the porting and 5 angle valve job. I will show the numbers.
Standalone will be next.
Can i get that engine oiler from you soon?turbojack said:Cool, I'm basically in the middle of doing something similar right now. I cant imagine how people are doing the motor without the Mopar tools for the damper and crank gear.
If you don't have one, I have an engine pre-oiler you can borrow when you have it assembled and want to insure it has oil throughout the block prior to first time start up. Its simple to use and IMO makes big time sense to do after assembling a fresh engine.
yea check that rod bolt stretch and get a good torque wrench. i snapped a ARP bolt in half. then i had the car running for a while. then it made a weird ticking noise. i took the car out come to find out with the piece of shit torque wrench had my bolts not torqued right. the rod bearings were spinning on the crank journals and on the rod its self. i had to get new rod bearings.. and new ARP bolts 98$...
oh yea if you cant get that oiler go buy white engine grease and stuff the pick up where the oil goes into the pump with that grease. use your finger and pack it in there good. don't want air trapped in there. i was just not fortunate enough to have a oiler,but my friend works for dodge and i borrowed damper and crank gear. made work so damn easy. good luck with the build!
oh yea if you cant get that oiler go buy white engine grease and stuff the pick up where the oil goes into the pump with that grease. use your finger and pack it in there good. don't want air trapped in there. i was just not fortunate enough to have a oiler,but my friend works for dodge and i borrowed damper and crank gear. made work so damn easy. good luck with the build!
[/quote]
Can i get that engine oiler from you soon?[/quote]
At this point today I plan on going to the garage tomorrow. If you would like we can hook up, let me know. I'm in Bedminster and the Garage is in West Orange and I need to go near Fort Lee in the evening. But things can change on me by tomorrow morning. You're located south of the Raritan river correct?
Can i get that engine oiler from you soon?[/quote]
At this point today I plan on going to the garage tomorrow. If you would like we can hook up, let me know. I'm in Bedminster and the Garage is in West Orange and I need to go near Fort Lee in the evening. But things can change on me by tomorrow morning. You're located south of the Raritan river correct?
Thanks for the advice. I have a snapon digital TQ wrench. i hope that will be good enough.GreaseMonkey69 said:yea check that rod bolt stretch and get a good torque wrench. i snapped a ARP bolt in half. then i had the car running for a while. then it made a weird ticking noise. i took the car out come to find out with the piece of shit torque wrench had my bolts not torqued right. the rod bearings were spinning on the crank journals and on the rod its self. i had to get new rod bearings.. and new ARP bolts 98$...
oh yea if you cant get that oiler go buy white engine grease and stuff the pick up where the oil goes into the pump with that grease. use your finger and pack it in there good. don't want air trapped in there. i was just not fortunate enough to have a oiler,but my friend works for dodge and i borrowed damper and crank gear. made work so damn easy. good luck with the build!
Can i get that engine oiler from you soon?[/quote]
At this point today I plan on going to the garage tomorrow. If you would like we can hook up, let me know. I'm in Bedminster and the Garage is in West Orange and I need to go near Fort Lee in the evening. But things can change on me by tomorrow morning. You're located south of the Raritan river correct?[/QUOTE]
I have to work from 3pm till 11pm tomorrow. If you can do it early I can meet up with you. If not I can get one from a friend of mine. I did not relize you lived so far away. I live in Toms River. exit 80 on the GSP.
At this point today I plan on going to the garage tomorrow. If you would like we can hook up, let me know. I'm in Bedminster and the Garage is in West Orange and I need to go near Fort Lee in the evening. But things can change on me by tomorrow morning. You're located south of the Raritan river correct?[/QUOTE]
I have to work from 3pm till 11pm tomorrow. If you can do it early I can meet up with you. If not I can get one from a friend of mine. I did not relize you lived so far away. I live in Toms River. exit 80 on the GSP.
Early tomorrow is not good for me. Another day sounds better OR I can ship it to you.darooke said:I have to work from 3pm till 11pm tomorrow. If you can do it early I can meet up with you. If not I can get one from a friend of mine. I did not relize you lived so far away. I live in Toms River. exit 80 on the GSP.
By the way, I had a lengthly talk with Darrell Cox a couple of months ago about assembling the SRT-4 motor and what parts work better and why and what things should be done during assembly, the rod bolt stretch gauge is a must. IF your pressed for time the local speed/race shops should have this. I have this as well and could loan it to you when I'm done using it, I plan on being done with it tomorrow.
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
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