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ok i just installe dmy wga and i am hitting i think 17 and dropping to 13. does that sound right? I am leaving it like that for now but will soon try to get it to 18/15. Is anyone else having a hard time puttin back on the heat shield. I am doing it right now and it's kicking my ass. I can't get anything to line up. Is there a secret to getting it back on. Like I said I am doing this as I speak so I need some answers ASAP. Thanks
 

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uhm, Nick? I installed my WGA in reverse order that the old one came out. I have it set @ 17psi, and it holds till redline. I did not disconnect any red, green, white or other lines from the vehicle. Car pulls very strong! Seems a little more laggy than with the factory one, but I compensate by downshifting. I changed nothing other than WGAs, from factory to Kinetic. Did I do something wrong? Is my car in danger of damage? I forgot to mention, I do have a CEL. Timing does not appear to be being pulled however. I would guestimate that the CEL is an overboost detected by the ECU, am I right? Also, I am stock otherwise. Have parts in the garage, but not on the car.
 

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lol, calm down man, I didnt take my heatshield off, just 4 bolts and lifted it up a bit to get at the retaining pin of the WGA arm. line up one bolt hole and finger tighten, then another in an adjacent corner. the others should then be closer to being inline. :thumbsup:


Big_Daddy said:
anYBODY pleeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaassssssssseeeeeeee!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Seems like you lucked out with the stock lines. Eventually it may start to pull timing once the pcm relearns everything so if you have a datalogger keep an eye on that. And yes if you dont have a stage 1 on most vehicles you will get a check engine light for overboost. As far as the heatshield goes just keep working it in there. it will fall into place :thumbsup:
 

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Hey Nick, I dont know why, but playing around, I uped the boost a half turn towards me and now the car is boosting and holding 18 psi. lol, one problem now, lol, power is ferocious all the way up to 120MPH, (gulp) which is where the car felt like it hit a brick wall! I believe this was a factor of fuel being cut because of the boost levels. How far off am I? Already ordered the Walbro 255 fuel pump, and am looking for the FPR mod from PTP. I think this will allow me to test the waters at about 20-22 psi, again, this car is stock otherwise, Stage 0! I am holding out for the "Twins" from Fullybuilt, but in the meantime, should I just order a Stage 1? Thanks for all the help. At 18 psi, the car is a beast! A beast!

Nick @ Absolut Boost said:
Seems like you lucked out with the stock lines. Eventually it may start to pull timing once the pcm relearns everything so if you have a datalogger keep an eye on that. And yes if you dont have a stage 1 on most vehicles you will get a check engine light for overboost. As far as the heatshield goes just keep working it in there. it will fall into place :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #27
4DRVIPER said:
Hey Nick, I dont know why, but playing around, I uped the boost a half turn towards me and now the car is boosting and holding 18 psi. lol, one problem now, lol, power is ferocious all the way up to 120MPH, (gulp) which is where the car felt like it hit a brick wall! I believe this was a factor of fuel being cut because of the boost levels. How far off am I? Already ordered the Walbro 255 fuel pump, and am looking for the FPR mod from PTP. I think this will allow me to test the waters at about 20-22 psi, again, this car is stock otherwise, Stage 0! I am holding out for the "Twins" from Fullybuilt, but in the meantime, should I just order a Stage 1? Thanks for all the help. At 18 psi, the car is a beast! A beast!
yea you could be experiencing that due to the fact you are still running through the pcm with your boost. Stage one should fix it. If you dont want to go through with it just hold off until you get the pump and you should be set. good luck:thumbsup:

Nick @ Absolut Boost
 

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4DRVIPER said:
uhm, Nick? I installed my WGA in reverse order that the old one came out. I have it set @ 17psi, and it holds till redline. I did not disconnect any red, green, white or other lines from the vehicle. Car pulls very strong! Seems a little more laggy than with the factory one, but I compensate by downshifting. I changed nothing other than WGAs, from factory to Kinetic. Did I do something wrong? Is my car in danger of damage? I forgot to mention, I do have a CEL. Timing does not appear to be being pulled however. I would guestimate that the CEL is an overboost detected by the ECU, am I right? Also, I am stock otherwise. Have parts in the garage, but not on the car.
So you didn't remove any other vac lines? I didn't disconnect any lines either. I have been having trouble with the engine light and fuel cut. I keep turning down the wga and now it sounds like its leaking air or something.

Good luck with your setup, i keep scratching my head over my wga and vac lines!:crying:
 

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Nick @ Absolut Boost said:
Seems like you lucked out with the stock lines. Eventually it may start to pull timing once the pcm relearns everything so if you have a datalogger keep an eye on that. And yes if you dont have a stage 1 on most vehicles you will get a check engine light for overboost. As far as the heatshield goes just keep working it in there. it will fall into place :thumbsup:
could you hear backfires when it runs to lean?

I think i'm hitting problems beacuse i ran the stock black line back into the kinetic wga, Right?
 

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well, i re-ran a new line from the back of the turbo to the wga and removed the green and black line completely. I can now see much more accurate boost readings. My check engine light still came on after a drive to work this morning and I still don't feel the power gain.

My next step is to get a stage upgrade, that should take care of the overboost code right?
 

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Well, I got mine on, with my FPM I got mine spiking just 20, but it would fall to just over 15. Any way to get it to hold more with out spiking so hi? Even spiking to 20, with the FPM I was only at like 10.5:1 clamped. Thanks guys
 

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hey guys,
i recently purchased a kinetic wga and installed it exactly as told. i took the black and green lines off of solenoid #2 and ran a new line from the compressor right to the wga. however, when i try to adjust the boost, nothing happens. i have the arm adjusted as far as possible and its spiking very slow, running 14lbs then falling to 12lbs in every gear. around the same time i installed the wga, my car starting having trouble starting in the morning. i thought it was the spark plugs so i bought the champion 570s gapped at .040...no difference. the car still has trouble starting and i still can't increase the boost. any suggestions? i have stage 1, CAI, needswings d/p, and mopar bov.
thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #33
bignardz250 said:
hey guys,
i recently purchased a kinetic wga and installed it exactly as told. i took the black and green lines off of solenoid #2 and ran a new line from the compressor right to the wga. however, when i try to adjust the boost, nothing happens. i have the arm adjusted as far as possible and its spiking very slow, running 14lbs then falling to 12lbs in every gear. around the same time i installed the wga, my car starting having trouble starting in the morning. i thought it was the spark plugs so i bought the champion 570s gapped at .040...no difference. the car still has trouble starting and i still can't increase the boost. any suggestions? i have stage 1, CAI, needswings d/p, and mopar bov.
thanks
check and double check all your vac lines. Make sure you didnt undo any when doing the install. AS far as adjusting goes you want to make the arm shorter for moor boost not further. Tighten it up by turning the adjutment rod towards you. then put it back on the flapper arm and test it out. These things will boost plenty more than 14 psi believe me. Let me know how it goes. Check your blue line. If that came off in the install process it could cause your problems you are describing.Good Luck

Nick @ Absolut Boost
 

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I installed the wga a while ago and still havent gotten it to work right. I pulled the flapper from the manifold towards the drivers side of the car and then hooked the wga arm to it. I am only getting 15 then falls to ten. I have the arm nut screwed towards me as far as it will go to still reach the manifold flapper. Help Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #37
davesrt4 said:
I installed the wga a while ago and still havent gotten it to work right. I pulled the flapper from the manifold towards the drivers side of the car and then hooked the wga arm to it. I am only getting 15 then falls to ten. I have the arm nut screwed towards me as far as it will go to still reach the manifold flapper. Help Nick
check your blue line and make sure it didnt fall off.
 

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I recently sold mine, but yes you can. I have had alot of experience with this WGA since my last post on this thread, and as soon as things clear up for me with my situation, I WILL be getting another one. You really do want to take the boost control away from the PCM. As I said before, yes you can connect it to the stock lines, but the PCM WILL learn the new boost and compensate down for it. Before I sold mine, and after I uninstalled my HKSEVC, I was boosting at 20psi and holding til redline with this WGA. Any questions, let me know.:thumbsup:

MrSparky said:
Is it possible to use the stock vac line to connect the wga to the turbo??
 

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You may need to go in for some warranty work:thumbsup: There is a good chance you bent the flap on the WG now it will not close all the way. i've never done this but have heard it is not too hard to do and apparently the only way to fix it is to replace the manifold.
 
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