Dodge SRT Forum banner

1 - 20 of 40 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Kinetic Motorsport Wastegate Actuator Instructions SRT-4

Tools Needed:
10mm socket wrench & box end
12mm socket wrench & box end
Zip ties
Foot and a half of 1/8” vacuum line
Bolt Penetrator (not necessary)

Installation:
1. Using your 10mm wrench remove the 5 bolts holding the heat-shield down. There is a bolt on the very top, two on the passenger side, one in the middle closer to the block, and one on the driver side. These bolts tend to get seized up from the heat so bolt penetrator is always nice to help break them loose quicker. Be careful not to strip the bolts because then removing the heat-shield will be a PAIN!
2. Once the heat-shield is removed go ahead and disconnect the factory vacuum lines from the wastegate, turbo and solenoids. This includes the green line and black line from solenoid #2. You will no longer need these lines so you can remove them entirely. You will NOT need to cap the line at the solenoid.
3. With the heat-shield off you will see a pin holding the stock wastegate arm into place. Remove that pin and set it aside for further use.
4. Now you can unbolt the wastegate. Using your 12mm wrench unbolt the two gold bolts securing the wastegate to the compressor housing of the turbo. Set these bolts aside for further use.
5. Now were getting somewhere. Its time to bolt up your new Kinetic Wastegate Actuator! Using those same 12mm bolts line up and attach your new wastegate. Leave these bolts hand tight for now.
6. Next step is to pull the flapper arm on the exhaust manifold toward the driver side. After doing so go ahead and attach the wastegate arm to the flapper and re-install your pin to hold it in place. There should be tension on the arm at this point. If not tighten the adjustment arm until tension is present.
7. Now you may tighten the 12mm bolts completely down securing it to the compressor housing.
8. Next you will run your vacuum line. Using your 1/8”vacuum line, attach one end to the compressor on the turbo where the green line used to run from. Use one of your zip ties to be sure this line stays in place. Run the vacuum line from there straight to the fitting on the top of the wastegate (where your stock black line used to run). Be sure to zip tie that line down as well. Unless you are running a manual boost controller as well, your vacuum line is completely done!
***if you are running a MBC cut your vacuum line in half after installing and
place your MBC between these lines***
9. Now you may go ahead and re-install your heat shield with the five 10mm bolts
previously used. If the heat-shield once re-attached looks like it is hitting or touching the wastegate arm use a flathead screwdriver to bend it back and give clearance to the wastegate arm. This is important so be sure to check and double check.

Adjusting the Wastegate:

Adjusting the wastegate actuator is simple. Simply loosen the jam nut, and turn the adjustment arm towards the firewall (towards the back of the car) to achieve less boost, or away from the firewall (towards you) to tighten or run more boost. This requries you to remove the pin from the flapper arm again and turning the arm iself. i reccomend keeping the heat shield off until the desired boost is reached. BE CAREFUL IT WILL BE HOT AFTER DRIVING!!!This may take some time to get it to your desired boost level but you shouldn’t have a problem getting there. After adjusting be sure to re-install the arm and pin and tighten down the jam nut so the arm doesn’t back out and boost will stay consistent. If your running on factory fueling 15-16 psi at redline should be perfect. Anything higher and you will be pushing the border of the factor fuel limits. Now hold on and enjoy your new beast. It’s a blast to drive!

**Absolut Boost takes no responsibility to any person or persons who damage there car or part in this process. If you don not feel capable of performing this installation please go to your nearest automotive or performance shop.For any questions regarding this install feel free to call our 24/7 tech line at (301)518-9745**
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,924 Posts
What adjusting arm are you refering to? Are you unpinning the arm that has the pin hole and turning it? My arm has 1 bolt that locks the arm tight. I see nothing else that moves the shaft. Am I confused ? Agp wastegate actuaters have 2 bolts and the shaft turns. Do ours somehow ?
Thanks for any help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
I see that you say that you don't need to cap the lines, I heard that if you don't cap them you will end up with a boost leak which one is true or is it different for each car?

Thanks Fatduke720
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I am referring to the arm itself on the wastegate. not the arm on the manifold.

And no you do not need to cap those vacuum lines it will not create a boost leak. Let me know if you guys need any more clarification.

Nick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
676 Posts
no need to cap the soleniods me and nick didnt do it on mine and i dont have any of the stock lines but the white one hooked up. hitting 18lbs. holding 15lbs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,924 Posts
The only arm on the wastegate actuater that moves ( that I see) is the arm with the pinhole. It has to be unpinned to screw and unscrew. Then locked with nut. I bought my from aareon on group buy but I take it they are all the same. Thanks again. Sorry if I"m missing something. Another thread also said you must unpin the arm to adjust.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,168 Posts
Thumbsup for a great vendor so far....and an awesome writeup :thumbsup:


good job Nick, I hope to see alot more good coming from you and the company!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,168 Posts
yup, anytime man....i hope to do business with you very soon!
You are already doing a great job making a name for yourself and seem to have some pretty good deals aswell! :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
flybye4 said:
yup, anytime man....i hope to do business with you very soon!
You are already doing a great job making a name for yourself and seem to have some pretty good deals aswell! :thumbsup:
Im ready when you are! Like i said we are here and here to stay :clap: Let me know if ya need anything.Thanks for all the support everyone.

Nick @ Absolut Boost
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
296 Posts
if running the stock surge valve u still have to leave the blue and pink lines hooked up correct?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Yes those run to a different solenoid. i would suggest leaving those alone unless you upgrade to hardpipes and an external blow off valve. Let me know if you have anymore questions :thumbsup:

Nick @ Absolut Boost
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,924 Posts
Just got done installing. Heatshield came right off with Pb Blaster applied a couple times in an hour and about 5 minutes car run time to warm up the bolts. They all broke right loose. Car has 8900 miles and I bought it new last March. Bolt on drivers side was easier if you take bolts off wastegate and move aside.

It's spiking 16 to 17 now and falls to 14. I'll up it a bit tommorrow. Damn turbo gets blazing when adjusting.

I left heatshield off till tommorrow or Tuesday. Till I adjust it and I Dremel out a window for easier future adjustments. It's about 35 here so I shouldn't melt anything to quick.

I used 1/4" hose left from my incabin boost controller. Just used the short green line at first split. Plenty tight.


Just gotta clean up old lines and Get rid mbc and button up shield. Then it's map clamp time.

Thanks for the How to and the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Unoid said:
Great how-to!
I'll be installing the WGA with a MBC, as well as a map/tip clamp shortly on a stock surge valve (rice plate) stg0.

Apparently I won't have to change any of the vaccuum lines except for the turbo to MBC to WGA.

Does this sound right?

Also for tuning purposes. should I just leave my WGA set at whateve it comes at and just use the MBC to up and lower boost? or should I setup the WGA close to where I want first then use an MBC?
You got for the wastegate you just remove the green and black line form solenoid 2 and take completely out of the car. then run your vacuum hose form the torbo to the MBC then to the top of the wastegate :thumbsup:

And as far as adjusting back the arm down a lil bit then start your tuning. Let me know how it goes!

Nick @ Absolut Boost
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
I have a problem with mine. I set it up exactly like the directions say and I can't get past 16 lbs of boost. I removed the green and black lines from sol. #2 , and still have the green sensor plug clipped into sol. #2. If I adjust the WGA arm to increase boost then it wont reach the flapper on the exhaust manifold. I still have 3 inches of thread to go but its useless if it wont reach the flapper. I asked some other guys but all they really said to do is boost leak test ( did it, no leaks ) or put washers under the WGA bracket to space the unit out so the arm will reach the flapper (rig it). An ideas? :confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,924 Posts
Loosen your wastegate mount bolts and then connect arm. Then retighten wastegate. This gives you extra play to attach arm. Careful though. Pull back too hard and I was spiking 20+ !!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
676 Posts
it varies from car to car man it all trial and error
 
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
Top