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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I installed my AGP WGA I used the green line mod, and the edtip mod. Every now and then I would get crappy idle and shitty first gear launches. Then I would turn off the engine, turn it back on and it would run fine again. Check engine light never came on. Now that I have stage1 and waiting on stage 2, did I need to keep the Green line mod and the edtip mod, or is it okay to go back to the factory configuration with the black line with the s1 or s2.
 

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well, alot of people like to bypass the computer and thats totally fine, i will say that i bought stage 1 and agp wga, installed the wga with the stock lines (did nothing but drop it in) and slightly pretensioned it (about 1 full turn toward the firewall) after the computer learned the new wga i was boosting at stock figures although it was alot smoother and tighter. This took about 2 days of cruzing around for the computer to learn and compensate for the 10pound spring. i then adjusted the wga arm (only about 1 1/2 more turns toward the firewall) and im reaching 17psi dropping to 15-16 at redline. Now its been 1 month since then and the computer has never throw timing, codes, or try to "fight" the new wga setting, it seems to adjust on the initial install and learns it, and if you slightly adjust from there it seems to work great. But the Green line or Blue line has there benifites, higher boost holding to redline quicker spools etc. I use my car for driving to work etc so i didn't wanna go this route. its preference but i think the alt. vac lines are definatly better if your gonna go race and such. I've never had any trouble with starts, bad launches and anything along those lines. it runs great and hold 17 psi till about 5200 then slowly drops to 15-16. I would imagine i could turn it up just by adjusting the rod alittle more (there is plenty of room for adjustment) but in your case you want a mbc or ebc so you don't load the arm too much, in my case i didn't even have to move the rod 1 cm to reach 17psi.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is it a bad idea just using the wga adjustment bolt to control boost?? This worked fine with me before. Thanks for the info though, if the stage1 takes care of the poor idle condition then I will leave the setup as is.
 

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well in my case i didn't have to adjust the wga arm nuts too much so i wasn't stressing the wg flapper arm. I would definatly get rid of the edtip mod if you have stage 1 because stage 1 gets rid of the partial throttle boost code and the purpose of the edtip mod is to stop that code. That could be why your idle and 1st gear issues are happening. a BC would be nice because all you do is slightly preload your wga arm so you get 13 or so psi then use the mbc to up it where you want (this takes the stress off of the wga arm). If the Green line is working for you then don't change it, but definatly get rid of the edtip. Do you have a bleeder valve on the green line?
 

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akuma337 said:
Is it a bad idea just using the wga adjustment bolt to control boost?? This worked fine with me before. Thanks for the info though, if the stage1 takes care of the poor idle condition then I will leave the setup as is.
The only thing with controlling boost with the WGA arm is that if you have it tightend all almost all the way to get the boost you want theres alot of preload stress on the wga and flapper arm, this is where a mbc would help alot, if you reaching your desired boost without too much wga adjustment then its not too bad, but a mbc is always recommended. since i use the stock black line i don't have to preload my wga too much to get my desired psi but the ecu will control my boost to a extent if something is wrong. i've yet to have any issues with this setup and i only had to adjust it 4 times, the 1st time was when i installed it to preload, then let the computer learn the wga and set boost to stock levels, the 2,3,4 times was when i was slightly adjusting it (about 2 days after the 1st time) to reach 17psi. after that i never had to mess with it again. it never compensated for it and has stayed consistent. 17psi dropping to 15ish toward redline
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
seltech said:
well in my case i didn't have to adjust the wga arm nuts too much so i wasn't stressing the wg flapper arm. I would definatly get rid of the edtip mod if you have stage 1 because stage 1 gets rid of the partial throttle boost code and the purpose of the edtip mod is to stop that code. That could be why your idle and 1st gear issues are happening. a BC would be nice because all you do is slightly preload your wga arm so you get 13 or so psi then use the mbc to up it where you want (this takes the stress off of the wga arm). If the Green line is working for you then don't change it, but definatly get rid of the edtip. Do you have a bleeder valve on the green line?
I don't have a bleeder on but I am using the Mopar BOV conversion.
 

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you should be using at least a bleeder with the green line setup . this would be a simple peice of plastic that is installed in-line with the green line that has a .040 pinhole in it.. or a mbc, otherwise your going to have to tighten your wga arm alot to get high boost and you don't want that stress on it.

http://srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3855&highlight=Wastegate+acuator

click on NIVO's link this will answer all your questions.
 
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