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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
34 dampening adjustments
Threaded strut Body- allows height adjustment with out having to touch the spring at all.

spring adjustments- allows for an alternate height adjustment method and spring tension.

aluminum body- front struts are about 7 pounds lighter per strut than stock rear struts about 8 pounds lighter per strut than the stock set up. strong and highly durable.

Adonized bodys- provides years of durability and looks good.

interchangable springs system- allows you to upgrade to higher spring rate for different race conditions

336 fr 224 rear standard spring- offers a higher spring rate of the shelf than our competitors but still provides a decent quality ride.

spring options

448 front 336 rear

672 front 448 rear

Compatible with stock and aftermarket sway bars

Camber plates can be used with an optional rage technology camber plate bushing. * please contact rage technologies for info*
 

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BTW there is a great savings on these coilovers from stock to the IPP's
due to the body being aluminum there is considerable weight savings:

Stock Front Suspension ( per side) 18LB
IPP front ( per side) 10LB

Stock Rear (per side) 19.2 LB
IPP back ( per side ) 11.2 LB

:)

total weight savings vs stock:

32lb :D
 

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dumb question - but did the camber plates elminate the 'clunking'?
 

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Canuck_2k said:
dumb question - but did the camber plates elminate the 'clunking'?
What we did to eliminate the so called clunking was to snug the springs up against the upper mount without compressing them. The noise from coilovers come from the fact that some other coilovers do not have the secondary ability like the IPP does to raise and lower without moving the springs. So, some do think it is normal to have clunking with coilovers, as the suspension moves up and down.:) Personally the noise would drive me crazy.

BTW, those pics are from the install we did on Project Blue on our site.
 

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My drivers side IPP clunks every time I turn...Its like the spring isnt seated all the way and its 'clunking' into place.

That little rubber dust cover, covering the piston of the strut is all crammed up in the spring. maybe the rubber booty is caught in between the spring and top plate and not letting it seat properly against that little chrome plate thingy?

I dont know, but Im ready to rip those fockers off and throw them in the ditch.

Anybody have any ideas what might be causing the clunk?

Its not an up and down clunk, its a making a turn clunk.

Like...It mainly happens when I make left hand turns...it'll clunk once, then it'll clunk back into place, so to speak, when I straighten the wheel out.

Doesnt do it all the time, but it def. does it alot.

Can I just rip out the rubber booty to see if that is it...cuz Im not about to take everything apart just to remove it properly.

:flame:
 

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Since I do not know how you installed yours, it will be hard for me to tell why it clunks. From speaking with a couple of other people that installed the IPPs, not many went the extra mile and did some things a little differently. Mine does not clunk, but then again we had Nemo make some custom bushing and stuff for us.
Take a look over on HybridSRT.Com at our install pics and comments to give you some ideas, before you go throwing things in the garbage. Don't know many people that have that type of money to throw away.
 

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Well, after looking at the install pics, there is something I didnt do. I didnt reuse the white bushing from the stock spring perch.

Is that bad?

Is that why that chromed cup that sits on top of the spring and mates up with the stock perch slides around some?

I didnt know I was suppose to reuse the bushing...kit didnt come with any instructions...or even a small piece of paper saying..."Dont forget to reuse the white bushing..." :lol:

welllllll shat.

Is this something of great importance, meaning should I spend my next day off righting it?

Ive been riding around like this for some time.
 

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There are two schools of thoughts here on the reuse of the white ring bearing thingy. Nemo says you cannot remove without damaging, but some have done so being very careful. Since the silver piece from the IPP is concave, the strut may be moving around without that white bearing assembly and the sliding around causing the clunking as it pass the edge of the upper mount.
 

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A quick note here. When you look at the fitment and clearances, like when the shaft passes through the mounting plates, there was just too much clearances for my taste and I felt we should do it differently and be more precise. Allowing movement only where it is necessary for proper suspension movement.
 

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so you think I should try to get the bushing in there?

Dont know if this would help the assessment, but the clunking happens no matter what speed Im at.

Doesnt matter if Im turning around in my driveway at like 3 mph...it will still do it.


hmm, I guess I could just remove the four nuts from under the hood and lower the assembly down far enough to squeeze the piece in there...ya think?

oh yeah...are there any bushing on the rears as well?

please say front only... :eeeek:
 

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IEATVTEC said:
so you think I should try to get the bushing in there?

Dont know if this would help the assessment, but the clunking happens no matter what speed Im at.

Doesnt matter if Im turning around in my driveway at like 3 mph...it will still do it.


hmm, I guess I could just remove the four nuts from under the hood and lower the assembly down far enough to squeeze the piece in there...ya think?

oh yeah...are there any bushing on the rears as well?

please say front only... :eeeek:
Front only.:)
Be careful but you should be able to lower like you said and put the bearing in there. Just make sure not to preload the springs, loosen the lock rings first and unload the springs.
 
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