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ipp coilover install

first measure the height of you can measure from the denter of
the wheel centercap or the ground to the bottom of the lip of the
wheelwells.....i recorded the height on stickeys and put them on each fender
above the wheelwell to keep them handy.
jack up the car and place on 4 jack stands keep the car level and give a good
distance to the ground to allow the lower control arms to drop down far enought
for clearance to get the struts out and in.remove the front and rear tires
unbolt the front sway bar links from both drivers and passangers side (this
allows the lower control arm to drop down) place a floor jack under the lower
control arm. remove the front strut as described in the service manual (i am not
going to describe this as you should have the knowledge to do this part.......if
you don't then you may want to have a freind or professional do the job)
with the front strut off the car disassemble the strut (again as described in
the manual) dont forget to use a compressor to remove to spring to be safe. you
will reuse the upper strut mounting (the piece with the 3 studs that bolts to
the car) now take the mounting that has the white plastic bearing and carefully
remove that bearing. do this by using 2 small screwdrivers under the bering to
carefully pry up on the becareful that you get the screwdriver
far enough under the bearing to get it off.....if you dont get far enough under
the bearing you will pop the plastic piece off the bearing and all the bearings
will come out and the bearing is tost.....go slow and look to make sure you get
completely under the bearing to remove it
take the front IPP coilover and loosen all lock rings. install the dust boot
over the coilover then install the spring and the upper spring mounting put the
included spacer over the strut shaft with the smaller side up. now put the white
bearing you removed form the stock mounting to the top of the upper spring
mounting, now install the stock upper mounting plate (plate with 3 studs that
mounts to the body) put a washer and the supplied nut over the strut shaft and
tighten the nut.........i did this with a air gun and was careful not to go to
crazy you will feel it tighten and you dont have to grab the strut shaft it will
tighten down..........warning do not grab the shaft with vice grips to keep it
from turning) now i will give some dimesnions as a starting point to get a base
height of the car (this should give a good starting height) set the height of
the body to xx x/x inches from the bottom of the stut body to the bottom side of
the upper mounting plate (where the spring sits) now adjust the spring to give a
distance of 4 inches from the top of the lower lock ring ( that locks the body
tight) to the bottom of the upper lock ring (lower of the 2 lock rings that
support the spring. now this part i did because i wanted more negative camber
(inward tilt of the top of the tire) looking at the mounting holes for the strut
to the spindle you will notice that the upper hole is slotted..............i
elongated that slot more (away from the strut) to allow more camber i used my
dremmel tool to lenghten the slot approximately 1/8 this is totally
up to you if you want to do this or not..........just some info i wanted to
share. now just install the strut as you would the stock assembly. you will need
to install the gold bracket to hold the ABS wire just do some bending and
tweaking and you will get it on. repeat the process on the other front strut.
reinstall the sway bar links (passanger and drivers side). install the dampening
adjuster knobs on the top of the strut and turn the adjuster full turn it counterclockwise 15 clicks.....this is a good
midpoint adjustment to start. install the front tires (some info to make the jog
easier just put a couple lug nuts on and do them hand tight as you will not be
moving the car and i can guarantee you will have the tires off and on the car
several times to set the height where you want it.
now on to the rear.
unbolt the rear sway bar end links and let the bar swing out of the way. unhook
andy and all ABS wires and such, now remove the rear strut as described in the
manual (as with the front if you do not know how to do this or feel
unconfortable doing this either get a friend to help or take the car to a
professional. (just some info most people have removed the rear calipers to get
to the lower strug mounting bolts......i did not have to but i have a good array
of tools to get into the tight area......if you dont have the tools remove the
rear caliper but dont let it hang by the brake line, get a coat hanger and hang
the caliper to keep the stress off the brake line.
after you have the rear strut off remove the upper mounting, again as described
in the manual. install the dust cover on the strut then the spring, then the
upper spring mount supplied with the IPP's now this is how i did my upper mount
install............i did not use the thin space supplied with the rear
coilovers, i purchased a box of washers that fit over the shaft of the strut
and i installed 5 washers between the IPP spring upper mount and the bottom of
the factory stock strut mounting, installed the upper stock factory mounting,i
then put 5 washers over the shaft (this spaced the nut up far enough so when you
tighten up the nut it will tighten down the factory upper mount to the IPP upper
mount and tight to the strut..................if you do not use washers to take
up the space you will feel the factory upper mount is very loose and flops
around when the nut is tightened down. i wanted the mounting to be good and
solid and tight, the washer between the IPP upper mount and the lower of the
factory mount are there to take up the pocket that it in the factory mount (to
allow the 2 mounts to mate flush) and the 5 washers used on the strut shaft
between the factory upper mount and the nut is to take up the unthreaded part of
the shaft so the nut tightens up the factory mounting to the IPP mounting and
just does not bottom out on the strut shaft. ok now after all of that you are
ready to set some preliminary heights for the struts as in the front set the
body length from the bottom of the strut to the bottom of the upper mounting
plate (where the spring sits) at xx x/x next set the spring height from the
lower lock ring to the bottom of the lock ring for the spring at x x/x this
again will give a good starting point and you will have to adjust the height

where you like it. install the strut as you would install the factory strut
install the dampening knob on the top of the strut and turn full clockwise then
turn back counterclockwise 15 turns........again as in the front this is a good
starting point. now repeat for the other rear strut and when finished reinstall
the rear sway bar ( i recommend that at this time you install the prothane rear
swaybar links that are shorter for your application (i used links that are 1 5/8
but measure for your application) now install all the tires and let the car on
the ground.

height install:

ok now take measurements of the car from the ground or center of center cap to
the bottom of the wheelwell (same method as used to take the intial
measurements) now where the car sits is up to you...............i have my car
sitting..............front 25 in from ground to lip of wheelwell and rear 25
1/8 from ground to lip of wheelwell.......but set you height where you want it.
now how the initial set up of the coilovers is gives the springs close to 80% of
their travel ( notice that the spring is not really tightened up and this allows
full travel of the opposed to the spring really tight and not
much distance between coils which would give a super rough ride and decrease
spring travel and cause coil bind) i adjusted my height by raising or lowering
the threaded portion of the strut into the body, lock the upper 2 lock rings
together (under the spring) and loosen the lower lock ring (on body) and use the
supplied tool to spin the upper portion of the strut to move it up or down ( i
marked on the upper lock ring with a marker and counted the number op turns and
kept a record of how many turns i moved each strut..........this will take
several times to get the car level and the height where you want it......alot of
up and down and tires off and on..............but its worth it!!! after you get
the height set where you want it make sure you have all the lock rings tight and
you are done!!!! now you definately will need an alignment i guarantee
that.....but drive the car some around the neighborhood and put a few miles on
it to let the springs settle they will pop groan band and
clang until the settle in......mine are as quiet as can be
now...............take the car to the alignment shop and have her what specs you have her set to is up to you, you can go
factory or go with an performance (autocross) alignment.........that is up to

dampening adjustment:

now after the install and alignment drive and enjoy you new ride and start
playing with the dampening adjustment to get the car to the "FEEL" that you like

just for info i set my alignment at this front camber -1.5 toe in 1/16 rear
camber -.5 toe 0 but again set you alignment how you feel comfortable

thanks bob

this added

please add this info into the approperate areas front and rear where i have the xx x/x 's

front total body length 17 3/4 spring dimension ( i think i already have this one but just incase 4 in

rear total body length 20 1/4 spring dimension 4 1/8 please add this info in to complete the write up
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