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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well I think I have finally mastered the rear coilover assembly..

I had many problems with mine but I think I finally have got it figured out..

In Addition to the rear IPP coilover you will need 10 or so 1/2 cut washers per side. You also must use the one washer that came with the kit and the sleeve for the rears..

When all is said and done it should look like this..





As you notice in the pic the top hat rests on the top of the strut. The sleeve then goes over the threaded strut shaft..

I then put 1/2 washers over the sleeve. When I had enough to get over the sleeve I put the final 12mm washer over the shaft and tightened down..

Now you raise the spring assembly till it is tight on the tophap.. Don't compress the spring like a madman.. Measure for your drop and install...

I would like Ray to chime in on this...

Also Nivo and others who have the ipp's or installed them... Let me know if this sounds like a good idea for the strut assembly...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah if you use the metal sleeve then you got like a 2 1/2" gap between the tophat and the nut???

I'll post pics to show you.. unless you raise the assembley to meet the nut..
 

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Masssilversrt4 said:
Yeah if you use the metal sleeve then you got like a 2 1/2" gap between the tophat and the nut???

I'll post pics to show you.. unless you raise the assembley to meet the nut..
mass the reason why you had the gap is because you did not thread the strut in its housing enough to compensate for the gap. if you thread it enough you will have no gap and the coilovers will be tight and no clunk from the trunk you will have:thumbsup: wither way im sure the washers are going to do the same but as a heads up all you have to do is thread the strut deeper. nivo had the same issue
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ah.. I thought it would be more sturdy with the tophat resting on the top of the strut rather than floating... We will see today as long as I can get the locking nuts today...
 
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