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Discussion Starter #1
It took me good 3 hours. I finished it at 4:30........this morning! Then I drove around the neighborhood. OMG! It sounds soooo sweet. I felt like I needed to tip-toe cuz I did not want to wake people up...then the BOV went PSSSSSSSSSSSSSHHHHHT! :shock: :twisted:

Things I learned (assuming I did it right):

* install the air sensor with the rubber grommet before mounting the pipe. I installed the rubber piece after I placed the pipe in place and the rubber fell inside the pipe. I had to take the clamps and pipe off again, which is a bit of a work.

* Over-tighten the large hose clamps and they will snap! I ruined one.

* I did not have to take the turbo inlet pipe off. Just had to remove one side (the end next to the airbox.)

* while under there removing the stock presure pipe, don't put your face right under it cuz oil will drip on ya! Yup ! I had an oil mask all night long all over my face.

* the ATP kit comes with a looooong silicone line. I did not cut mine to length but loop it at some area away from the heated components making sure of no hard twists and turns for smooth flow.

* I had to loosen the font bolt of the airbox, disconnected few connector (one by the bypass valve on the valve cover, and one on the TB). This gave me more room to work with.

* when done, take your time on checking stuff you moved/unplugged around. I found out that I needed to reconnect the negative terminal back onto the battery before I could even start the car. That was a brainer!!!

* Flat head was harder to use than correct size socket.

Pics later.

:lol: 8)
 

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Congrats! Can't wait for the photos!
 

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WHen messing around with silicon couplers, some water and soap will help you move them alot easier. The heat will dry up the soap and water afterwards.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ryansrt said:
Cool man! What way did you mount the bov? facing up towards the engine, or down towards the ground?

Ryan
I got it facing down. Pretty tight in there. I'm a bit worried if the pipe and bov rub against the stuff down there. I'll check later to see if there are any evidence of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Exhaust Depot said:
WHen messing around with silicon couplers, some water and soap will help you move them alot easier. The heat will dry up the soap and water afterwards.
I kept that thought in mind. But it was easy enough cuz I was doing it outside...and it was raining...from 1AM to 4AM. :shock: Crazy! But cool! :twisted:
 

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I took me about an hour, I didn't have any oil in the pipe, I/C or on the sensor. I still plan to get that oil accumilation tank. I thought there would be, but it was bone dry @~1250 mls. I put mine off to the side pointing down, away from the tranny. I cut my hoses to size. I have about 100+ zip-ties laying around, so I clamped down all the connections. Hopefully I'll do the down pipe by friday, need some time to do it.

Yes, this BOV is loud!

The anwser is to relieve the serge presure that gets recycled back through the system to the turbo. It extends the turbos life and other benefits.

-James
 

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$ 175 :D
 

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Does the HKS SSBOV really go "Pshhhhhhh" ??? Because acouple of my friends are saying that they heard it whines more than it "Pshhhhhs". I dunno'. They said TurboXS's Type H version is better.

Any comments?
 

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i personally like the sound of the TurboXS type-H RFL better.
 

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The RFL is like, real fuggin' loud though. Lol. It's between the regular Type-H vs. HKS SS for me.
 

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http://www.turboxs.com/_images/Video/txsbov.mpg

this is the rfl in phils wrx, with the windows up, and low boost.
 
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