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Discussion Starter #1
I installed my EGT. I inserted the thermalcouple in the exhaust manifold right after the turbo.


At 13psi in 4th gear up to about 5k rpm I was reading 750 Celcius.

At 15psi in 4th gear 800 C

It seams pretty high, redline is at 900 on the gauge. But this was not in the downpipe, it was installed about 8" right after the turbo discharge.
 

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any reading that you get after the turbo means almost nothing

put it in the header before the turbo, and tune for 910-920C for max power, and still safe
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was going to tap it on the manifold but you have to remove the turbo in order to do that. I did not wan't any chips damaging my wheel.

The location I tapped it in is actually not that bad of a spot. If you take a look at the stock manifold, you will see how wierd it is.
 

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We just put my friends wrx's egt and we put it right after the turbo on the exhaust manifold...around 13psi in 4th at 5k rpm, his reads about 1300 F...i'm too tired to do the math...but just to compare it...his is also a h-4 block...a little different...maybe cooled a little more...not sure though.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ON the Rex, the best place for it is on the #4 runner which runs the hottest (near teh uppipe). The second best place is on the uppipe, before the turbo.

On the downpipe you loose real numbers.
 

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I'm sorry....we did do it on the #4 runner...the exact place your talking about...for some reason i said the wrong stuff...i have no clue why i said that....but that is where we did it...it was a bitch to get back on the car.
 

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Exhaust Depot said:
I was going to tap it on the manifold but you have to remove the turbo in order to do that. I did not wan't any chips damaging my wheel.

The location I tapped it in is actually not that bad of a spot. If you take a look at the stock manifold, you will see how wierd it is.


just do it with the car running, as soon as you punch threw the exhaust gases will blow and shreds OUT of the way, not suck them in
 

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Discussion Starter #8
LOL, you should see my arm now. I have bubbles on it from being burt making the 3" turbo back. There is no way I would do it on the manifold with the car running. Especially being that the spot is very tight to get the drill in there.
 

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Exhaust Depot said:
I was going to tap it on the manifold but you have to remove the turbo in order to do that. I did not wan't any chips damaging my wheel.

The location I tapped it in is actually not that bad of a spot. If you take a look at the stock manifold, you will see how wierd it is.
It looks high because it's coming out of the turbo.... you NEED to put that in the manifold(for the Newbies: turbos don't have "headers"). You need to know the temps coming out of the head, so you know what the temp is on your valves and such. You will also want to tap runner 1, as it will be the first to see changes/temps. Where did you hear runner 4 ?

You do not have to remove the maifold to install a thermalcouple(egt probe). You just need to do it a certin way.

Get a set of drill bits lined up(literaly) ranging from 1/8" up the the size need for your bung.

Start with a COLD engine.... Start the car and let it IDLE.
Drill a 1/8" hole, then use a 3/16" to make the hole bigger, continue in this manner to SLOWLY get the hole to where you need it. If your not welding a bung on, you can tap it, but go SLOW and back break the chips offten to minimize the size of the chips. (keep in mind that exhaust gasses will be excaping between the Taps' grooves... so where gloves).

You'll want to do this relativly quick as possible, as the manifold gets HOT rather quick.

As long as the car is Idleing, and you us small steps to get the hole larger, you'll be fine, as will your turbo. DSM guys have been doing this for years.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I tapped the manifold. There is no way I would have been able to do that with the engine running being that its located at teh firewall and very hard to get a drill in tere. I had trouble tapping the manifold with the car off. I could imagine with all the heat etc.


As for tapping the #4 runner, reread what we where discussing. We where refering to the WRX setup. They have a boxer engine. The rear right runner is the hottest on that car being that it gets less air. Yes I know its water cooled, but its also cooled by some of the ram air under the car etc.

If you look on a cessna plane(small lil ones). You will see that they have a CHT (cylinder head temp). Its a brass looking washer with a wire coming out of it. Its slipped on to the sparkplug. Its located on the rear right cyl because its the hottest of them all. Less air to cool it.

As for teh SRT-4, the best runner to tap would be the one on the passengers side. That one might run leaner than the rest being that the intake runner is a smaller area plenum. You get more velocity though from the design
 

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Exhaust Depot said:
As for teh SRT-4, the best runner to tap would be the one on the passengers side. That one might run leaner than the rest being that the intake runner is a smaller area plenum. You get more velocity though from the design
Thats the one I was talking about... I've always known Sport Compact people to count the cyl's starting from the belt area(passengerside-BELTS_1,2,3,4-Driverside). We are talking about the same one, but you are calling it 4 and I'm calling it 1.

Think if you rotated the engine 180degress.... the way the engine heats wouldn't change, so would you still call the passenger side runner 4 and drivers side 1? Or would you count the cyl's by there refernce to the Belt area ? (I'm not saying your wrong, I'm just explaining my logic behind my thoughts)
 

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EGT in WRX

Black_Rain said:
We just put my friends wrx's egt and we put it right after the turbo on the exhaust manifold...around 13psi in 4th at 5k rpm, his reads about 1300 F...i'm too tired to do the math...but just to compare it...his is also a h-4 block...a little different...maybe cooled a little more...not sure though.
I too have a WRX and just put an Autometer EGT on it. The cylinders on a WRX are (ignore -'s):

-------front
driver--2--1--passenger
-------4--3
-------rear

So you are referring to cylinder #3 being the leanest/hottest and that is the commonly agreed to one. I welded my probe bung on the driver's side manifold (ease of removal/install) at the Y for cylinders 2&4. I get around 800 deg F at idle, 1200-1350 highway cruising (ECU leans-out for best MPG), and 1400 (max) on WOT 14psi runs. My car is stock.

I know this thread is for EGT readings on the SRT-4, but I thought some similar EGT temp readings might be helpful.

Sorry for not introducing myself. I'm a long time Turbo Dodge lover... had a GLHT and a Daytona Shelby Z before I moved to Colorado. And I think the SRT-4 rocks! Seriously thought of getting one... got an '03 WRX instead. :D

RR
Colorado
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I always forget which is 3 and 4. The two rear are always the hottest. I think the right rear will be hotter being that all of the exhaust heads to the right of the car.


Thanks for the inputs.
 
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