How much did you pay for it? Did you get a HK BOV with it?drolander said:I installed the ATP Stage II downpipe today (downpipe + racepipe, no cat). It wasn't the easiest install, but well worth the effort. The hardest part was just getting the stock DP off (those locknuts suck). But the car screams now... it accelerates really fast and sounds awesome. I can't wait to get it to the track.
At idle the car doesn't sound much different from stock. But at WOT it is really loud, and there is more gurgling, etc. when letting off the throttle. I have a swappable cat, but haven't put that in yet.
I'll try to post some sound clips when I have a chance.
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;-)stevessrt said:
The 4 bolts are a major pain in the a**. They are tight as hell, and there isn't a lot of room for hands. I put the car up on jack stands and did most of the work from underneath, but for the top bolt I worked from under the hood.
Tip: The three lower bolts are fixed, you remove the nuts (which face the rear of the car). For the top bolt, unscrew the bolt (also from the side facing the rear of the car). Do not try to remove the nut (from the front side of the car). It is welded to a small plate and doesn't turn. (I always have to find things out the hard way
)Once you get the stock DP and cat out, it's pretty easy to install the ATP parts. Especially since the downpipe and cat (or racepipe) and the piece to join back up to the exhaust pipe, are all separate. I really like the V-flange concept.
One other issue I had... the hole for the O2 sensor is farther back than stock. It's after the cat instead of on the cat. So the sensor is a tight fight. I removed the plastic pin from where the sensor wire was mounted to the crossmember, and then carefully pulled the sensor wire down as much as I could, and it was just long enough. Maybe there's some sort of extension available for the sensor, I don't know. But I like the way the O2 sensor is after the cat. Hopefully I won't get a CEL with the racepipe in.
Good luck.
When attacking the bolts, you want to get a nice long extention. That makes it alot easier.
You can also get it from positioning your hands around the oil cooler area. You should be able to get it with a wrench. Not to hard if you have done it a couple of times (5 Times.)
You can also get it from positioning your hands around the oil cooler area. You should be able to get it with a wrench. Not to hard if you have done it a couple of times (5 Times.)
Your the man, Hector! ;-)Exhaust Depot said:When attacking the bolts, you want to get a nice long extention. That makes it alot easier.
You can also get it from positioning your hands around the oil cooler area. You should be able to get it with a wrench. Not to hard if you have done it a couple of times (5 Times.)
Everything is always hard for me the first time, until I figure out what I'm doing. Like when I replaced my springs. The first one was tough, and then the rest were easy.
Thats why I got me several pieces of pipes i my garage, all different diameters and different lenghts.Exhaust Depot said:When attacking the bolts, you want to get a nice long extention. That makes it alot easier.
You can also get it from positioning your hands around the oil cooler area. You should be able to get it with a wrench. Not to hard if you have done it a couple of times (5 Times.)
Oh yeah can you comment on the boost....I remember acr saying that your going to have crazy spiking boost beacuse of doing this......what are the results?
No no...I am talking about steves thread where you were very adamant about the fact that doing the above upgrades would cause severe boost spike, and a boost controller was needed. Steve is waiting tooacr2nv said:
I can link u to the thread if you like...just lemme know.
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