Running the Vacuum Lines
1. If you are choosing to run PCM controlled boost, install the
wastegate exactly like the factory wastegate was installed,
and move on to “Adjusting the Actuator below. You will not
need to route any vacuum lines differently.
2. If you are eliminating PCM controlled boost, remove both of
the associated vacuum lines from the number 2 solenoid that
is located on top of the stock airbox. One line comes from the
turbo (green line), the other line goes to the stock WGA (black
line). These lines will not be used anymore. You do NOT
need to cap these lines at the solenoid.
3. Attach vacuum line with bleed fitting to the turbo (where
you removed the green line), and run that directly to the top of
the new WGA. You may want to secure both sides of the
vacuum fittings with zip ties to prevent them from blowing off.
If you are using a boost controller, you will NOT use the
supplied bleed fitting.
4. At this point if you are not running the Mopar Stage 1 or
Stage 2 PCM, you’ll want to remove the red vacuum line going
to the TIP sensor solenoid (red line). Cap the nipple on your
upper IC hose with a vacuum cap. This will eliminate the Part
Throttle Overboost Check Engine Light that is common on
Stage 0 vehicles when upgrading the actuator and/or boost
controller. If you have a 2005 vehicle, you may need to order
stage 1 to completely eliminate check engine lights
Just keep it on PCM controlled boost if on stock turbo. When I tried that route years ago on my old SRT-4 I hated the driveability and the partial throttle boost I was getting. Ran soooo much better on PCM controlled boost with stock wastegate.
I decided to replace my Mopar noise plate with a TurboXS SML valve. The stock surge valve had warped some over the years and when boost leak testing was letting air slowly escape out the sides.
I mounted the new SML valve, made sure the orientation was correct with the moon-shaped cutout...
I installed my AEM x series w/out calibration as the manual stated it's not necessary with the Bosch 4.9. My afr at idle is around 15.9
Cruising is like 15-16 and WOT is 12.7 iirc.
Should I try free air calibration? Run to a tuner?
To my knowledge it's a stock ecu/tune. 🤷♂️