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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When do you arm the system? I am seeing it like this:

Pull up to the light
Arm the nitrous
Stage . . . take off
Start off in first
Shift into second
While in second you may be at WOT for a few seconds so nitrous is sprayed.
Release the throttle nitrous quits spraying
Shift into third
While in third you are at WOT for x amount of seconds so nitrous is sprayed.
Release the throttle nitrous quits spraying
Shift into fourth
Continues . . .

Is this how the WOT system works?
 

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yes that is exactly how it works, i did it a little different though i had drag radials and get into wot in first gear also but with the nitrous the dr's wouldnt hold the power, so i would go through first, shift into second then hit the arming switch when i was already at full throttle. then continue to spray in wot, shift wot, shift.
this was the only way i could get any traction
 

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You can WOT shift with nitrous, but your RPM goes outside the n2o activation "window", and stops spraying. Unfortunaly, it will not continue to spray UNLESS you let off the throttle, so WOT n2o shifting continously, with basic system control, can't be done.

Not really what you wanted to know I guess, but some good info :)
 

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Your best bet if you like to WOT shift, is to not use the WOT option with NOS, but rather the activation button instead, but it is all up to the driver and his feelings on what feels better.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
First of all, when we talk about WOT shifting are we talking about shifting with clutch without letting off the gas? If so, let's talk about WOT release throttle then shift. So, when you are at WOT the nitrous is engaged and when you release from WOT the nitrous quits spraying? What controls this engaging and disengaging? It is a box that comes with the system?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
What is a safe shot 35-50? Now the most asked question of them all WET or DRY and why. I've always heard dry because it is the safest. Now of course, you add more air you add more fuel which where I can see wet should come into effect.
 

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hydrohopper said:
What is a safe shot 35-50? Now the most asked question of them all WET or DRY and why. I've always heard dry because it is the safest. Now of course, you add more air you add more fuel which where I can see wet should come into effect.
An engine can be ruined with a 35 shot if the fuel isn't right... nitrous is only as safe as the installer and user are competant.

Don't get me wrong, I've used a lot of nitrous in the past, nearly 160 pound of it one week in a Saturn, but you have to respect it and stay on top of maintenance. Understand your system fully, know how to change your jets, learn to figure out yourself how to figure out which jets you need...

Read, read, read.... there are lots of places to learn, I used to visit n2o.org a long time ago... hopefully they are still up and running...

Dale
 

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hydrohopper said:
What is a safe shot 35-50? Now the most asked question of them all WET or DRY and why. I've always heard dry because it is the safest. Now of course, you add more air you add more fuel which where I can see wet should come into effect.

Wet... only wet.... our fuel systems can't compensate for the addition oxygen themselves... Dry is easier to install though...
 

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04bluesmithjuice said:
Your best bet if you like to WOT shift, is to not use the WOT option with NOS, but rather the activation button instead, but it is all up to the driver and his feelings on what feels better.

Brian
not really, there is still too much room for error. the BEST BET is a RPM based windows switch.
 

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kevinwarren240 said:
yes that is exactly how it works, i did it a little different though i had drag radials and get into wot in first gear also but with the nitrous the dr's wouldnt hold the power, so i would go through first, shift into second then hit the arming switch when i was already at full throttle. then continue to spray in wot, shift wot, shift.
this was the only way i could get any traction
same here, i get the same 60s on or off the juice.
 

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You need two things, possibly 3 to make it work like you are suggesting:
1. Mechanical or electrical WOT switch. Mechanical is just a simple reed switch, electrical senses voltage of the TPS sensor and is fully adjustable.
2. A window switch (RPM based switch) Once you are WOT you want to make sure that you're between a certain RPM range to engage the nitrous, too low and you'll take out the crank from the torque spike, too high (from a missed shift) massive piston damage.
3. A gear switch - mechanical, another reed switch that mounts to shifter (unseen) that latches a relay once you're in second gear so that you won't engage nitrous in 1st gear.

To finish this up I'd also suggest a fuel pressure safety switch so that if fuel pressure is too low the system won't work.

I have all of these things except #3 on my Impala.


Mike
 

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SRT4B said:
not really, there is still too much room for error. the BEST BET is a RPM based windows switch.
Yup I forgot about that one. I like to WOT shift so the WOT activation switch would be my best friend :lol: and a STi's worst enemy. :rofl:

Brian
 

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ok a few things:

- with the rpm switch, can you make n2o come on in any gear you want? what programs this? meaning, can you set it so it comes on at say 3700 rpm in second gear but...if traction becomes a problem in the future, due to street tires, etc., can you "adjust" the n2o to come on only in the latter gears (3rd, 4th, 5th)? What determines which gear the nitrous activates?

- a bit more explanation as to the WOT rpm window switch... let's say i'm setting my rpm window switch to come on at 3700 rpm's and come off at 5800 rpm's...in 3rd 4th and 5th.

i always power-shift when i'm drag racing, that said...i need the rpm switch to activate at say 3700 rpm, and de-activate at say 5800 rpm a few 4-500 rpm's under where i'm shifting (in my case w/Stage 2-6500rpm redline i powershift at around 6300, typically my rpms fall to 4500 once it hits the following gear), my question again...

would the rpm window switch de-activate at the set 5800 rpm's and re-activate in the following gear since the shift brings my rpm past the set activation of 3700rpm's after a powershift (WOT-shift, or whatever you guys call it) all on its own? I don't quite follow that guys statement where it mentions you have to lift off the throttle in order for the n2o to re-activate...i don't wanna lift off the throttle, i'm not used to lifting off the throttle when powershifting, elaborate please.

-lastly, can the purge be set up to purge nitrous into the back of the big intercooler i have? Seeing it's wasting that gas, it might as well put it to good use and chill my IC before a run...at the sae time it's "hidden" from view as it's spraying into the back of the IC not up in the air...can that be done?
 

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If you get a ZEX KIT, as someone mentioned only get a wet kit, it included a single control box that is very easy to install or uninstall for warranty work. The solenoids, throttle sensor are contained within a small box that even looks like a ignition system. You simply arm the system after first gear and every time you hit WOT it'll spray.

Here's what ZEX has to say about their kit:

The ZEX™ Wet Nitrous Oxide System has the most advance features of any wet nitrous oxide system on the market. All components, such as the solenoids and activation electronics, are factory pre-assembled inside the Nitrous Management Unit. This ensures you will be spending less time in the garage installing the system and more time out having fun. The patent pending Fuel Shear technology used in the ZEX™ nitrous nozzle, places the enrichment fuel directly inside the high-speed nitrous oxide plume exiting the nozzle. This results in the most complete atomization of enrichment fuel possible. Super-fine atomization of enrichment fuel ensures maximum horsepower and eliminates fuel puddling that can cause intake backfires. Even the way the ZEX™ Nitrous System is activated is unique. Instead of relying on crude micro-switches or push buttons, the ZEX™ wet nitrous system uses advanced electronics to learn the throttle position sensor (TPS) voltage curve. It then programs itself for your specific vehicle and, when armed, will only activate the nitrous system at wide-open throttle. This ensures perfect engagement every time the nitrous system is used. Advanced features like this make the ZEX™ wet nitrous system the easiest to install, the most powerful, and the most reliable nitrous system on the market.
 

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ok a few things:

- with the rpm switch, can you make n2o come on in any gear you want? what programs this? meaning, can you set it so it comes on at say 3700 rpm in second gear but...if traction becomes a problem in the future, due to street tires, etc., can you "adjust" the n2o to come on only in the latter gears (3rd, 4th, 5th)? What determines which gear the nitrous activates?

- a bit more explanation as to the WOT rpm window switch... let's say i'm setting my rpm window switch to come on at 3700 rpm's and come off at 5800 rpm's...in 3rd 4th and 5th.

i always power-shift when i'm drag racing, that said...i need the rpm switch to activate at say 3700 rpm, and de-activate at say 5800 rpm a few 4-500 rpm's under where i'm shifting (in my case w/Stage 2-6500rpm redline i powershift at around 6300, typically my rpms fall to 4500 once it hits the following gear), my question again...

would the rpm window switch de-activate at the set 5800 rpm's and re-activate in the following gear since the shift brings my rpm past the set activation of 3700rpm's after a powershift (WOT-shift, or whatever you guys call it) all on its own? I don't quite follow that guys statement where it mentions you have to lift off the throttle in order for the n2o to re-activate...i don't wanna lift off the throttle, i'm not used to lifting off the throttle when powershifting, elaborate please.

-lastly, can the purge be set up to purge nitrous into the back of the big intercooler i have? Seeing it's wasting that gas, it might as well put it to good use and chill my IC before a run...at the sae time it's "hidden" from view as it's spraying into the back of the IC not up in the air...can that be done?

I'd still like for someone knowledgeable to go over these questions with me...
 
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