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I thought I would post up my results on how I modded my window switch with blue LED gauges. This is what I did and the parts I used. Sorry my pictures are really bad. I used my Girlfriends Digital Camera and it is not good.
3 - #74 LED Bulbs (Can get at Autolumination.com) enough for all 3 switches.
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Soldering Gun
Solder
Knife, Dremel Tool, small screw driver
7mm Socket (I am pretty sure).
First, remove the panel from the door by pulling up on it. The panel will pop off. Remove the 3 harnesses from the panel. Remove the 2 switches from the panel using the socket. The black switch is the driver's switch which houses the light.
The switch is 2 pieces that can be taken apart to see the bulb. Use a small screwdriver or knife to seperate the base and the switch. Be careful because there are 2 metal pins that fall out which push the switch down for your power windows. Don't lose these or your switch won't work. Use the soldering gun to heat up and remove the old bulb.
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Take you #74 bulb and remove the colored plastic from the bulb (Like the HVAC's) Don't break the resistors or wires off the bulb. On mine there was a red and blue resistor. My pictures are bad so it is hard to explain which way the red would face on the switch. So the easy way, take the switch out to the car, plug it in, turn on the car, touch the LED to the switch to see which way it should face when it lights up. Now solder the LED wires on the switch.
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The other part of the switch where the actual lever is, I took off the rocker switch and removed the plastic in the center where the old bulb would go into. This way the bulb and resistors have more room. The height of the bulb is about the same as the plastic on the switch.
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Now reassemble. Put the pins for the switch back in the top piece. Snap the bottom of the switch into the top. I left the rocker switch off while reassembling so I could make sure the bulb went in straight.
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After that, I put the rocker switch back on and here is the finished product.
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Put switches back onto panel, hook up wires, and snap back onto door. To test, turn the key to "ON" and you will see the bulb light up.
The 2 other switches don't have a power supply. The light on the drivers switch turns on with accessory power, not the headlights. For the drivers side passenger switch, you can tap into the drivers switch light source or use the accessory power that powers the window switch when the car is on. For the passenger side, you have to use the accessory power off the window switch. I will be finishing up the other 2 switches soon.
3 - #74 LED Bulbs (Can get at Autolumination.com) enough for all 3 switches.
Soldering Gun
Solder
Knife, Dremel Tool, small screw driver
7mm Socket (I am pretty sure).
First, remove the panel from the door by pulling up on it. The panel will pop off. Remove the 3 harnesses from the panel. Remove the 2 switches from the panel using the socket. The black switch is the driver's switch which houses the light.
The switch is 2 pieces that can be taken apart to see the bulb. Use a small screwdriver or knife to seperate the base and the switch. Be careful because there are 2 metal pins that fall out which push the switch down for your power windows. Don't lose these or your switch won't work. Use the soldering gun to heat up and remove the old bulb.
Take you #74 bulb and remove the colored plastic from the bulb (Like the HVAC's) Don't break the resistors or wires off the bulb. On mine there was a red and blue resistor. My pictures are bad so it is hard to explain which way the red would face on the switch. So the easy way, take the switch out to the car, plug it in, turn on the car, touch the LED to the switch to see which way it should face when it lights up. Now solder the LED wires on the switch.
The other part of the switch where the actual lever is, I took off the rocker switch and removed the plastic in the center where the old bulb would go into. This way the bulb and resistors have more room. The height of the bulb is about the same as the plastic on the switch.
Now reassemble. Put the pins for the switch back in the top piece. Snap the bottom of the switch into the top. I left the rocker switch off while reassembling so I could make sure the bulb went in straight.
After that, I put the rocker switch back on and here is the finished product.
Put switches back onto panel, hook up wires, and snap back onto door. To test, turn the key to "ON" and you will see the bulb light up.
The 2 other switches don't have a power supply. The light on the drivers switch turns on with accessory power, not the headlights. For the drivers side passenger switch, you can tap into the drivers switch light source or use the accessory power that powers the window switch when the car is on. For the passenger side, you have to use the accessory power off the window switch. I will be finishing up the other 2 switches soon.
