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Ring gear? You sure the input shaft doesn't need to be rotated a bit to seat into the clutch?
HOW-TO: Transmission Removal
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Well im pretty sure the ring gear is the fly wheel just said that because that's how it was mentioned in the how to. Any way I went back through and saw that I missed one step! Like a retard I did not take out the one last bolt by the speed sensor. So that was the problem. But I now have a new problem I can't get the damn bolt out tried with socket wrench air ratchet and even an impact gun will not budge. The wrench I have is only 250 ft lbs, so I bought a 650 ft lbs one today tried it but it's a little bigger then the other one and won't fit in there good enough to get the socket on properly it just slides off, and I don't want to round out the bolt so its a no go. So im pretty much stuck any ideas? I have the tranny supported by two jacks, But im thinking it might be misaligned enough to where it won't let the bolt lose so i might have to reinstall the tranny mount and top motor bolts to hold it and take some pressure off of the speed sensor bolt to try and get it out. I think that is what is keeping it from coming out since its the only bolt holding the tranny in it might have to much weight on it to allow it to turn and come lose. I will try that tomorrow any other suggestions?
That bolt was a pain in the ass for me to get. I used a few extensions to get it out once I broke it loose. I'd play with the jacks a little and see if you can raise/lower it to help the bolt get some wiggle room.
You took the top motor mount bolts out? I loosened my top one just a little bit, but that was it..
Oh. Yea, you didn't remove the top motor mount bolt..I was referring to the bolt that actually holds the upper motor mount in, not the bolts that hold the tranny housing to the motor. I've always had good luck with PB blaster and a breaker bar.
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3,372 Posts
when i drop the tranny since i have a ACT clutch is remove that damn bolt by the speed sensor first. then i drop the tranny and remove the transmission mount leaving the top two bolts that mount to the block last. i dont have a tranny jack, but a cherry picker and using ratchet straps to hold up the tranny i remove the two bolts and drop the transmission. you will have to pull on the tranny to remove the input shaft from the clutch disk. you will hear a loud clunk when you do it.
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99 Posts
This is a great how to indeed, but I'm having a bit of trouble getting the tranny back IN the car now that I've replaced my TOB and clutch fork. I know there's no easy way to do it, but I was wondering what the easiest way there is.
Should I have the clutch mounted to the drive plate, then mount tranny, or have the clutch in the tranny and mount like that? Also is it easier to mount the tranny to the chassis on the tranny mount side first, or mount the tranny to the engine on the bellhousing side first?
I've tried mounting it with the clutch still on the drive plate but that was impossible to align the gear in the tranny with the clutch without being able to see it... And trying to get that tranny up there at just the right angle is a bitch to say the least. If you have any tips it'd be greatly appreciated
Should I have the clutch mounted to the drive plate, then mount tranny, or have the clutch in the tranny and mount like that? Also is it easier to mount the tranny to the chassis on the tranny mount side first, or mount the tranny to the engine on the bellhousing side first?
I've tried mounting it with the clutch still on the drive plate but that was impossible to align the gear in the tranny with the clutch without being able to see it... And trying to get that tranny up there at just the right angle is a bitch to say the least. If you have any tips it'd be greatly appreciated
Mine just took a lot of "finesse"..it was a pain to line up and get it in there right, for sure. I found it easiest to put the top two tranny bolts in, and use those as "guides"..once those were lined up the rest of it kind of clicked in and I was good to go. Keep at it..it'll go!
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99 Posts
So by tranny bolts you do mean the ones on the tranny mount, chassis side, right? Thanks in advance!
I mean the two that mount from the motor to the bellhousing (I think). I know where it's at, but it's been a while since I did that. I'll have to look at a picture so I can point them out. One is near where the shift cables mount to the tranny.
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652 Posts
If your reinstalling the stock or stock like modular unit, its best to install the clutch right on the input shaft on the transmission then it will slide right up, easy as pie. Bolt it right up to the block, then the transmission mount, torque those down. The you can install the 4 bolts for the flex-plate to clutch unit, you may have to turn ether the transmission or the engine over to get the bolt holes to line up. start with the oblonged hole and work your way around.
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1,666 Posts
the easiest way to get the clutch to line up with the input shaft upon reinstalling is to put a breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley bolt, when you get the input shaft and trans close start to shimmy the crank clockwise and continue to slide the trans toward the block. This is obviously easier with 2 people but if you have a good trans jack it should help if your solo. I would never suggest to use the top two bolt as guides in the event the jack slips out from under the trans this could cause the bellhousing to crack. There are small dowels to help line up everything and keep it square upon tightening. If a dowel falls out get it back in. And if your just using a stock modular replacement, just like stated above.....clutch onto input shaft, then trans goes in. Always bolt the bellhousing to motor before you bolt the mount to the trans.... If you do the mount first you will be in for a fight and lining the input shaft and clutch together would be next to impossible.
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800 Posts
alright... so a few weeks ago i dropped my tranny to swap my 3/4 shift fork and everything is good to go... except a few things... whenever i accelerate i can feel the engine and what not kind lift as if the mounts are tight... but i double checked the mounts and they are snug tight. i also have my ABS light on... and i can't seem to figure out why... anyone have any idea?
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6,846 Posts
Im gonna suggest checking ur mounts with a torque wrench. double check all u bellhouseing bolts are tight.
Check your intermediate shaft bearing on the passenger side. i had mine go bad and felt like hell pulling out.
for abs light.. doublecheck the sensors near the brakes. make sure u didnt accidently break the line or get stuff in the sensor area. then reset battery
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800 Posts
thank you sir... i'll check that tonight.
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If your ABS light is on this may help http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f163/abs-light-came-morning-428035/
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800 Posts
Alright... So check this out... It's been about a month/month and a half and everything was good up until a couple days ago. Whenever I turn right.., I hear and unbearable clicking sound comin from what sounds like my axel. I'm on my way home right now to check it out. But anyone know of this problem? And also my mounts still feel loose... Even after checking all the bolts with the torque wrench. Any ideas?
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3,372 Posts
could be axle, rack and pinion, not having a properly torqued axle nut or any loose hardware. go back under the car and verify torque on the bolts.
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