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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Whether you have a clutch job, axels, air box removal, throttle body, battery, battery tray, most of front suspension, intercooler pipes, trans mount. you can find it all here.

Note: in any of the pics red circles are bolts you do not remove specially on brake parts unless you want to bleed the system afterwards.

1.) 1st step is always prep, grab your girls lotion (or your own stash ;) ) and smother your arms, and hands. This will help with clean up as no dirt will grind its self into your skin.

2.) Tools recommended: 10mm, 12mm, 13, 15mm, 18mm, 19mm, 32mm, try to get the 15, 18, 19, 32mm, in ½ as they will see a lot of torque removing fasteners. 15mm, 18mm deep sockets, wrenches in all the sizes above minus 32 and 19. Needle nose pliers, ½ drive ratchet, 3/8-inch ratchet, extensions, and id say 10-15inch worth at least. Hammer, tie rod remover, pry bar (good flat screwdriver will do), Jack no little one will work u need at least a 2 ½ ton to get the height necessary, tranny jack will save lots of aggravation, 8mm hex allen wrench or socket, c clamp, jack stands, quick ties, carb cleaner, loc-tite, battery charger (if doing over a few days).

3.) All right jack your car up.



4.) Get decent height on it, you will need to remove the tranny out from under but will still need to get to items under the hood. If under 6 foot I would recommend a milk crate or step of some sort to get to items.

5.) Disconnect negative side of battery (always disconnect ground first and put on last this prevents arching if the positive when loosening or tightening. Then remove the positive terminal.


Then remove battery hold down middle yellow circle.

6.) Remove battery from car

7.) Next remove the intake system from the turbo/car. Stock is below, yellow are screws or clamps that need removed, blue is the ait sensor (also needs removed). If you have an aftermarket intake system It mostly consists of a clamp on the turbo, filter, then a bracket that mounts it. All hoses attached to airbox/intake need removed also. If you need to use masking tape on all hoses and number them so you will know where all hoses go upon reinstallation.



I zip tied all the hoses and solenoids to the motor so they are out of the way

8.) Next the battery tray needs removed, The two bolts closer to the front of the car need to come all the way out, the two in the rear just need backed out 10mm for all 4 bolts
The rear needs a deep socket. Pull out the tray and sit aside.



9.) Next the throttle body needs to be removed, disconnect all the harness and loosen all the clamps (8mm) then remove the bolts (10mm). There is a gasket behind the throttle body as long as its not ripped u can reuse. Pull the adapter off the intake manifold (what throttle body sits on)





10.) Next the cold side charge pipe needs removed, loosen the clamps (8mm) and remove air charge temp sensor. Wiggle pipe till removed. Refer to picture for throttle body for locations of charge sensor and upper clamp. Lower:



11.) At this point I went ahead and drained the tranny fluid. Find the hex plug under the tranny (8mm hex). Loosen and have a bucket or drain pan ready.



12.) While tranny is draining I began to remove the axels. Start by removing the two front wheels (If you need a picture for this , please sell your wrenches and take it to a mechanic). Remember to always loosen and tighten in a star shape pattern to reduce the chance of warping the rotors.

13.) Remove the cotter pin on the axel nut retainer, Do not reuse cotter pin cost is bout .50 at part store.



Stick flathead screwdriver in vents of rotor (so it will stop the brake assembly from spinning during loosening of axel nut.



The socket for the nut is 32mm, I used a breaker bar, but u can use air tools, pipe over the ratchet, for leverage. Loosen nut and remove, also take off washer. Put all nuts, washers, etc. in a Ziploc bag.

14.) Next open the bleeder valve on the caliper (this method is best for all cars using abs so u dont not push the fluid in the way not designed) ; install c-clamp over the brake pads. put hose into contained from bleeder.



Tighten c-clamp this will push pistons back into calipers allowing removal of caliper/pads, close bleeder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
15.) Next remove both the bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper-mounting bracket. NOTE: Do not remove bolts circled in red.



After loose I zip tied to the coil spring



16.) Tie rod is next Remove nut under the tie rod bolt.



Next insert the tie rod removal tool be careful with this cause u can rip the rubber boot that holds grease the tie rod joint. Here is the tool I used



Wedge tool under boot and hit with hammer till tie rod comes loose. Put nut back on bolt so you don’t misplace.

17.) Next remove the abs wheel speed sensor (10mm)



I zip tied up and away don’t risk damaging it.

18.) Next loosen (but do not remove) the strut to knuckle nuts, NOT BOLTS. They are splined you will either break your tools or the bolts. Red indicates NO. Back nut off to end of the bolts where the threads are fully inside the nut. Then take hammer and hit the bolts outward.



Remove bolts.

19.) Pull knuckle forward and to the side and remove the axel from the hub, if the axel will not come out tap with a dead blow hammer (rubber mallet) do not hit with a hammer you can damage the threads and the axel will be ruined.

20.) Take pry bar and wedge between axle end and tranny housing. And pop forward (out from tranny). If you have not drained the fluid yet you will get a shower of some of the worst smelling tranny fluid out there. Pull axel out and remove from car.

21.) Do the same to opposite side. Passenger side mounts to an intermediate shaft do no pry that side from the tranny pry from point where axel meets intermediate shaft.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
22.) Next we will remove the intermediate shaft, Remove the two bolts that hold it to its bracket.



Remove shaft from tranny carefully there is open gear drives on end of shaft do not damage. Place somewhere safe.

23.) Next hot side intercooler pipe come out. Remove clamps , 1 is near turbo outlet.



there is only one clamp at that location, the other is under car in front of oil pan.



Remove the two bolts circled in above picture. Wiggle hard hot pipe out of car.

24.) Next the PS cooler lines need removed.



place bolts with hard pipe to not misplace. Lines will be fine just loose under car.

25.) Next I removed the ps cooler mounting bolts.



I placed bolts back in spots after removing to not misplace. Let cooler and lines dangle

26.) Next remove the intermediate shaft mounting bracket from block (may not be necessary but there is a motor to trans bolt that was torqued highly and you need the room.15mm


place bolts with part and set aside.

27.) Structural Collar comes out next.



This may not come out until remove the lateral support under starter if it doesn’t, just let it sit and it will come out in the next step.


28.) Lateral Support is next.





Remove bolts



Place bolts in correct holes and place aside.

29.) Next remove starter bolts. 2 on side toward passenger, 1 on driver side of bell housing.



 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)


30.) Remove shift linkage, If you have booger bushings they are a little of a pain but they will come out , just be careful as the linkage is plastic and can break pretty easily.




31.) Remove shift linkage-retaining bolts from tranny case there is 2 (18mm)



32.) Next we need to disconnect the clutch slave cylinder line. The factory does make a tool for it (6638a) I used Needle Nose pliers wedged between the tab and the fitting.


takes a little time but it will loosen. Tie it up so it doesn’t get caught upon removal of tranny.
33.) backup connector needs disconnect and the tab that holds it down removed from bracket.

34.) Next remove the splash shield from the passenger side to access the crank pulley.


35.) Next take a look at where the tranny meets the engine under the car, you should see a big gear (ring gear) there should be a bolt visible, if not put a 19mm on crank pulley and turn till you see a bolt.

Bolts are 18mm , Need to stick a flat screwdriver into ring gear to stop motor from turning. If you have a shorty socket like I have (comes with any belt tensioner tool) u can get a ratchet in there.

Turn motor till you have all 4 bolts out.
36.) Next there is a bolt next to the vehicle speed sensor that needs removed (18mm)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
37.) Locate Vehicle speed sensor, push red tab out ward and unhook.


38.) next place a jack under motor, and under trans, just enough to hold weight not jack up trans or motor (can damage oil pan). Next locate the trans mount bolt.



If you do not take the weight off the mount you can ruin the bolt.

38.) Next lower the jacks enough to get to the tranny mount bracket bolts. (15mm)





39.) Next loosen the 2 upper motor to trans bolts (18mm)



40.) Lower tranny jack and remove transmission.





Torque Required:
Wheels : 95 Ft lbs
Strut To Knuckle : 40ft lbs
Intermediate Shaft bracket to block : 40 ft lbs
Intermediate shaft to bracket : 250 inch lbs ( roughly 21 ft lbs)
Axel Nut to Hub : 180 Ft lbs
Flywheel to crankshaft : 70 ft lbs
Trans to motor bolts : 80 ft lbs
Clutch to drive plate bolts : 65 ft lbs
Shift cable bracket to trans : 250 inch lbs (21 ft lbs)
Drain plug (tranny ) 17 ft lbs
Trans mount to trans : 50 ft lbs
Structural Collar: horizontal bolts 80ft lbs, vertical 40 ft lbs
lateral brace : 45 ft lbs
Abs wheel sensor :105 inch lbs (8 ft lbs)
Throttle Body 250 inch lbs (21 ft lbs)
tie rod : 40 ft lbs

Thanks to Bizman69 for making the following video, to help even more......
 

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joe's been busy....
 

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Wow, I dont even own an SRT anymore and that write up makes me want to buy one just to pull the tranny!
 
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