Dodge SRT Forum banner
1 - 20 of 46 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
539 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
How To: Steel Braided Clutch Line (detailed)

This is a little more detailed version of the original how to done by “Slowryd.” Some information was taken from his original post (https://www.srtforums.com/forums/f75/how-braided-clutch-line-609032/). This is how to is specifically in place to help everyone that asked for more photos and details. I hope this will clear some things up. Just like Slowryd, I take no responsibility for improper installation or removal. Keep in mind that a few steps maybe different then your car due to set up. Please reference other how to's and the search function for more specifics for your particular car. This is also a great time to install some new components if needed. I will indicate which step to do it in and the link for the new part.

Now to get started…

You will first need your favorite beverage and cigar for this how to go well


I went with a 36” line and two fittings. My thinking behind this was to prevent fewer leaks or the potential for the system to leak at multiple points. Part numbers used was AER-FBPA0039-36 (36” line with one end straight and the other end a 90 degree) and RUS-640281 Fittings (2 fittings and comes with O-Rings).




1. ) Remove driver seat. This part is optional, but if you wish to have more room to work and haven’t vacuumed out from under there in a while, it’s a good idea. You will need a 15mm socket with 3/8 extension. Two bolts in the front and two in the back. Do the front ones first, slide the seat forward, then do the two in the back (didn’t take picture of back bolts).


2. Now slide your butt under the dash and get ready for some fun… Remove the 8mm bolt for the clutch pivot arm. Mine is sliver due to it being aftermarket. (Install new clutch pivoting arm if needed. Maintenance - Rage-Tek Clutch Pivot Arm 03-05 SRT4/00-05 Neon/01-10 Pt Cruiser)





3. Now, get out your best friend (3/8 Swivel). You will also need to use an extension or a series of extensions (whatever you find easiest).


4. Remove the nuts for the Clutch Master Cylinder (13mm socket)



5. Now remove the 4 bolts holding the Brake Master Cylinder (13mm socket). This allows you later on to pull it out a little to give you more room to yank out the Clutch Master Cylinder. The nut on the lower right corn will need a 13mm box wrench to remove.



6. Now to start the engine bay work. You will need to remove your intake, battery, and cold pipe. It may not be in that exact order and may not have to do all this due to your current set up.




7. Put a bag over the intercooler lower pressure pipe to prevent anything from getting in there and putt something to cover the inlet to your snail (turbo). I used speed tape (however, a bag and a rubber band will work fine. Just be mindful if anything is still hot if the car ran recently).



8. Remove the 10mm nut hold the reservoir to the firewall. You may have to use your swivel.


9. Slide the harness of the clip next to the brake booster. This just allows to make things easier for removal of the Clutch Master Cylinder.


10. Now remove the Clutch Master Cylinder. This is hidden to the right of the Brake Booster. You can pull the Brake Booster slight out/ forwarded if you need the extra room/ flex.



11. Next, remove the Slave Cylinder. Grab the cylinder, slightly press in and turn it counter clock wise till the grooves line up to pull it out. You can remove the access window if you need to, just make sure you don’t drop it inside.*** Replace the Slave Cylinder if needed Maintenance - Mopar OEM Clutch Slave Cylinder 03-05 SRT4 ).


12. At this point, you should have both cylinders hanging free. You have one of two options. You can either look for the white clip holding part of the line in place to the frame or disconnect the line (next to the cold pipe). Or…. You can cut the line next two each cylinder and just rip that ***** out. Up to you what you want to do. I cut mine, since I was just going to throw it away and was replacing it. If you do this, be mindful of the fluid. Keep rags nearby. You should now have both cylinders out of the car. Punch out the pins on each one and remove the lines. Make sure the O-Rings are removed out the cylinders.



13. Now assemble you line and fittings. The 90 degree bend will go on the Clutch Master Cylinder. Put the 90 degree part of the line into the cylinder and slide the pin back in. May need to use a hammer, be very careful (very little force).



14. Now to bench bleed the system. “Grab a small container and put 3-4 inches of brake fluid in it. Make sure the master cylinder cup is filled to the line with the lid off, place the open end of the ss line for the master cylinder in the container and pump till there are no more bubbles. Repeat the same procedure with the slave. Once you have no more bubbles connect both pieces. I did not do this and believe it killed the master cylinder. Don't let the master cylinder go dry!!!! Follow the FSM Bleed Procedure Before you put the slave in the transmission. After you install it have someone press the clutch pedal 20-40 times once the master is installed. Look and feel for any leaks on all connectors.” - Slowryd

For the people using a 36” single line, the process is very similar. Run the line into the container fill with brake fluid and fill the reservoir cup too. Pump the Master Slave Cylinder till there are no bubbles. Then, take your Salve cylinder, press it in, fill the opening with brake fluid, then attach it to the other end of the line. Your will press the Master Clutch Cylinder in and hold for this while attaching the Slave Cylinder to the line. I felt another set of hands made this process easier for me.


15. Now you should have a finished product that looks like the picture below. Follow the procedure in reverse to re-install. Install the Slave Cylinder in first, then the Master Clutch Cylinder.


I will be tweaking this over the next few days if I come across something else. My line was cracked and didn’t get to finish.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
820 Posts
So with the slave off the car you push in the plunger, and then connect it to the line, after it's been bled?

I know the goal is to not suck air in the slave, but it seems like it's going to be hard not to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
539 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So with the slave off the car you push in the plunger, and then connect it to the line, after it's been bled?

I know the goal is to not suck air in the slave, but it seems like it's going to be hard not to.
You can pump with the cap off to work air out. Due to it not having a bleeder in the system, this is the only way I know how. Very similar to doing brakes.
 

·
Premium Member (Lifetime), SRT of the Month
Joined
·
9,177 Posts
Agreed. It's optional. I undid mine and didn't move it to get it out. You don't need to remove the seat, but doing so can make things easier.
you have more patients than me,LOL very good write up tho!!!!:thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
820 Posts
I just don't understand, once you take the pin out on the slave, the fluid will come out, so when you connect the line you're inevitably going to have to pump the slave to remove. No?

I just don't want to trash the slave because if you let too much air in, it's ruined.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,559 Posts
This was very good.

On bleeding the system:

You can just put it together however you want without bench bleeding as long as too much fluid doesn't get out of the slave and master and get the air out by using the method in the shop manual that is found in the how-to section. It is very straightforward and easy and is found on pages 6-5, 6-6 and 6-7.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I have all the parts and bled the master cylinder then I went to disconnect the line from the slave and it's seized in there! I got the pin out but the damn line won't disconnect. Any ideas? Or am I going to have to buy a new slave?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,810 Posts
keep pulling, it might be in there pretty good

anywho, I did this before I deployed, came home & actually got to drive it, much better feel, and easy to route when installed. I got the one piece, so bleeding shouldn't be much of an issue if I ever have to take it apart or replace something
 
1 - 20 of 46 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top