Dodge SRT Forum banner

1 - 20 of 74 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,011 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I thought I would take the time and try to help out anyone who is willing to take some good advice. I feel I have a good process for lauching on street tires so here is my first attemt at a how to.

1. The most important thing is finding an air pressure that works for your tire to give you optimum traction. With street tires I start at 30psi and work down 2psi per run until my times quit getting better. When the 60' gets worse go back to the last psi where the 60' improved and that should be the best psi to run at.

2. Most people dont want to do it on street tires especially if they are the tires they always drive on, but I beleive a good burnout is paramount to a good time. I pull up to the water box, do a quick spin to wet the tires then pull out about 5ft from the water. Pull the e-brake and when signalled I dump the clutch at 4k and let the rpms set between 4.5k and 5k in 1st. I personally do not do burnouts in second but I will leave that research to you guys. When the tires start to white smoke, drop the e-brake and let the car pull forward until it grabs traction (usually a great sign).

3. Now it is time to stage. This is pivotal. Look at the track, you want to make sure to get your car in the groove. There will be a shiny spot and dark spot where you could stage your tires. STAY AWAY FROM THE SHINY PART OF THE LAUNCH PAD. Now for curtousy reasons you will only want to stage the first light until your opponent does the same then you will pull slightly forward to light up the second light. Even possibly deep stage leaving only the bottom light lit up by pulling forward a little more.

4. Now it is almost time to go. While waiting for the lights to set you off, try to get your rpms to bounce between 1800 and 2400. If possible try to take off with the rpms rising as opposed to falling.(This is really where practice will come in) Now I personally start my launch when the second yellow light clicks off. And that usually nets me a sub .1 r/t. When I get off the line I immediately floor it as I really do not like to slip the clutch.

5. Now that your moving your tires are most likely spinning. On the onset of spin (just as fast as you can) let off the gas and reapply. That should shock the tires into traction. Getting close to redline you will be comming up on the shift. DO NOT WOT SHIFT into 2nd gear as if you are modded at all it will lead to more tire spin. Slightly slow down your shift and hit second trying only to chirp the tires.

6. Now that you made it into this gear, You should be doing good. The shift to 3rd and fourth should be an all out WOT as fast as you are able to do without obviously missing the gear. As far as rpms of shifting I shift to third at 5800rpms and into 4th at 5600 rpms. Of course I know my dyno graph and when my car makes the best power in each gear. (another trick to get every last .x out of your car.)



Please chime in if you have something to add or don't agree with any of this. I am here to learn a little as I am sure we all are. Like I said this was my first attempt at a HOW TO so please let me know what you think.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,344 Posts
Don't do a burnout on a true street tire. Something like a azenis or a DR might benefit but not a true street tire.

The track and everyone who runs after you will be out to kill you for dragging water into the staging lanes also.

Pull around the waterbox then do a dry spin to get the rocks out of the tires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,011 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Noted, but never had a problem before so I dont think I am going to change my technique. The tires are dry by the time I make the staging lanes anyway. I know how to not drag water (because that pisses me off too.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
838 Posts
acrbill said:
Don't do a burnout on a true street tire. Something like a azenis or a DR might benefit but not a true street tire.

The track and everyone who runs after you will be out to kill you for dragging water into the staging lanes also.

Pull around the waterbox then do a dry spin to get the rocks out of the tires.
I also agree with this. I've always read that doing a burnout on everyday street tires is actually not good for launch traction where as a quick spin to get all the rocks, dirt, and other debris off is much better. That's just me and everone's car is different....if it works for you great. I just haven't had much luck with it. Other than that....very nice for your first HOW TO :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,011 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Lethal_Whisper said:
I also agree with this. I've always read that doing a burnout on everyday street tires is actually not good for launch traction where as a quick spin to get all the rocks, dirt, and other debris off is much better. That's just me and everone's car is different....if it works for you great. I just haven't had much luck with it. Other than that....very nice for your first HOW TO :thumbsup:
Well thank you. I dont know, I have tried it both ways and the way I listed works for me. Of course I had a private track rental with some friends to play with a lot of different things. Really is just try one and see which is better for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,557 Posts
For me it all depends on the type of street tire if I burn out. I have falkens on now and I dont burn them out. But I like to uses a beefier size of the stock kind of tire I will burn them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
335 Posts
Yes, going in the water with street tires is a big no no. Best bet is to drive around the water and do a short tire spin. Heating them up too much turns them to liquid and they don't work better when that hot unlike a slick or DR which does. You want them warm, not hot. Also when you drive a treaded tire in the water it gets water in the grooves. When you burnout that water is thrown up in your fenderwell and will drip back down on the tire and the track after your burnout, again a big no no for your own car and the people running after you.

I personally never dump a clutch, that is alot of drivetrain shock all at once. Learning to preload slightly with a hint of slip helps out alot on the drivetrain and i've always got better times on street tires and slicks that way. I pulled 1.60-1.7 60ft's on both my Hondas using that method without a broken axle or single drivetrain loss.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,063 Posts
regardless of going or not going in the water. This is a good Thread. 1badSRT and Kotu100 should add to this as well. These 3 guys are running 12s consistantly with true radial tires. I am gonna try this stuff. Note: I noticed that Kotu100 and Milkman have slightly taller than stock tires. Does the longer rollout of these tires help them control wheelspin better than stock and smaller? Just a question I have been wondering about for a month or so and never posted. Would be great to chew on in this thread though. Milkman please let me know what you think. Good post
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,011 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
addictedtosin said:
regardless of going or not going in the water. This is a good Thread. 1badSRT and Kotu100 should add to this as well. These 3 guys are running 12s consistantly with true radial tires. I am gonna try this stuff. Note: I noticed that Kotu100 and Milkman have slightly taller than stock tires. Does the longer rollout of these tires help them control wheelspin better than stock and smaller? Just a question I have been wondering about for a month or so and never posted. Would be great to chew on in this thread though. Milkman please let me know what you think. Good post
yea I am hoping they will chime in as well. I got a 12.9 on the stock kdw's. Even though my new tires are slightly wider I still get the same 60' I got stock. Honestly I wish I could get kotu100's 60'. I am going to try and get to the track and pull atleast a 12.5 now that the w/i is tuned in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,063 Posts
THere was another guy on the forums last summer that had a couple of very light mods. I think it was a k&N drop in and an MBC. He was running consistant 1.94-1.96 60s on the STOCK KDWs. He was running 13.50s at 102-103. I have no idea how he was doing it. I remember he said he was airing them waaayyy down to like 20 psi. I tried that and my MPH went down like 1.5 mph and my 60s still sucked. I was dragging the deflated tires down the track.He posted the slips too. killer driving.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
27,026 Posts
ive run a 13.6 @ 100 in a bone stock 05'

i have lots of tips but i'll styart another thread for those on the stock wheels and tires
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,011 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
These tips work for stock as well. I gave my friend with a completely stock 05 this same advice and he was pulling 13.8 all day with around 2.0-2.1 60's. We added an MBC and he got a 13.6. he needs to work on his shifting a little. In the same car I got a 13.3 out of it, but I only got to run it after the mbc obviously.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,156 Posts
Thanks for the write-up ....

But this is all VERY dependent on the power each car is making. There is ZERO chances this would work with my car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,011 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Just FYI on these techniques. I have used them with a friends stg 3 car that made 370hp and 390tq. They worked fine for him. I have not had the opportunity to try them on a 50trim or any other turbo out there. If these tips help anyone out at all then I have done what I set out to accomplish. So if you use this write up and it works for you please let me know of you success and vice versa if they do not work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,310 Posts
I agree with avoiding the water on street/stock tires. A lot of the normal tire compounds for street tires also loose some of their grip when you heat them up too much. I've always pulled around the water box if possible and do a quick spin to clean them off without getting too hot. I've talked at length with a friend who after decades of drag racing rear and FWD cars agrees that seems to work best. I can't argue too much with him since he can somehow cut consistent 1.8's on literally junkyard tires if the track prep is good.

For anyone who goes to the track and only gets a few runs in (like can be the normal case out here in southern California), it can be hard to play around with tire pressure a lot. If you have stock KDW's the sidewall is really stiff anyways. Slicks generally run low pressure so the sidewalls can be allowed to distort and wrinkle to get better traction for the tire surface. I've personally found that for an average track I'll lower the air a little to minimize the ballooning of the center part of the tread, but won't go too low (usually mid-20's). If you don't have a ton of runs to play around with on the same night to find out what works best I'd say the softer the sidewall, the lower the pressure to try.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,011 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
We had a private track day in West Texas and a there were a few of us with Srt's there. 3 of them had the stock kdw's and their best times were had on 21-22psi. I ran 21 personally when I had mine to great success. But definately if you dont have time to basically trial and error it I would say go with about 24-26 and follow steps after. The burnout technique is up to the driver, I was stating what works best for me. Of course seeing that the tracks where I am now are usually well prepped I may try going around the water and doing a mild spin once or twice and see what happens.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,063 Posts
Well, I think what The milkman is saying get the car going even in a slight spin and quickly and smoothly get off and on the gas in first gear to take advantage of the slight turbo lag to stabilize the initial tirespin in first gear. I think with some practice like anything else this will work well with stock or stg 3 cars. I think big turbo cars will completely obliterate the tires so that is a different story.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,011 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
addictedtosin said:
Well, I think what The milkman is saying get the car going even in a slight spin and quickly and smoothly get off and on the gas in first gear to take advantage of the slight turbo lag to stabilize the initial tirespin in first gear. I think with some practice like anything else this will work well with stock or stg 3 cars. I think big turbo cars will completely obliterate the tires so that is a different story.
right on. Exactly what I am getting at. I would like to test something on a big turboed car but I dont know anyone that would let me drive theirs.
 
1 - 20 of 74 Posts
Top