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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
I adapted and simplified this from this writeup on VEI Systems' website.

Here's the procedure...

The stock boost gauge is on the right side of the steering wheel in this photo...



Remove the A-pillar covers...



Remove the screws on both sides of the dash cover...


Then remove the 2 screws in the dash pad where the center defrost vent is.


Lift carefully, disconnect any wiring connectors and the boost hose, then pull forward... simple!



Thru the windshield, you can see the stock vacuum hose...



With the dash cover upside down, remove the 2 phillips-head screws that secure the pod to the dash cover. Access is easy by just moving the vacuum/boost hose to the side...



The stock gauge can be separated from the pod by removing the two lock nuts...



Remove the vacuum/boost hose from the barbed connector on the stock gauge. Rather than just pulling hard on it, carefully pry/push it off with a small screwdriver or similar...



The VEI gauge is not a perfect fit only because the gauge is not as deep as the stock gauge, and the studs are a little further inboard than the stock gauge...



This somewhat-cutaway drawing better explains the differences between the stock gauge and the VEI gauge. The flat section on the pod with the holes for the stock studs will be called a "mid-plate" for this installation article...



Another drawing explaining the differences. The gauge does not sit all the way on the pod (small gap at "B"), because the stud just barely hit the mid plate at "A". This area will need to be drilled open for the studs to clear...



Here you can see the holes have been slotted open towards the inside, to clear the studs on the VEI gauge...



Trial fitting the VEI gauge to ensure adequate clearance now...



Continued below...
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
...continued from above

Wiring: There are only 3 wires to install, and no photos, but it's very simple. Connect a red wire from a proper switched +12V source, which is easiest obtained from behind the fuse panel, or from the front of the fuse panel using an Add-A-Circuit. (The fuse panel is on the driver's side of the dashboard, and accessible when the driver's door is open). Connect a black wire to a proper ground source, such as the bolt just behind the fuse panel. Finally connect a green wire to a headlight wire, either directly at the headlight wiring, or from the headlight switch. The green wire is optional, but if unused, it's better to connect it to ground, such as the case on the gauge. On this car, the removeable dash panel makes for very easy routing from the gauge to the fuse panel.


Vacuum hose: If your car is making over about 25psi, it's recommended you replace the stock vacuum hose with a rigid hose.


This is how the gauge will be secured to the pod... use a pair of 6-32 barrel nuts to secure the gauge. This drawing also shows some washers in place, and don't worry about the gap from the slotted holes, since it's really only on one side of the washer -- it just looks larger here. Instead of the barrel nuts, you can use regular 6-32 tee-nuts which are available for $0.99 per pack of 4 pcs from Home Depot. Any regular hardware store should have these...



In the front left of this photo is the tee nut with the prongs as you would purchase it. On the front right is the tee nut with the prongs removed (just bend them the other way with pliers and they'll break off). BTW, the other nuts in the background are a hex standoff and how it was modified to be a home-made barrel nut.



The upper nut in this photo shows the tee-nut. The lower is the home-made barrel nut.



Mount the gauge and pod back into the dash cover...



Connect the wires to the gauge. Using all 3 of your hands really makes this easy. :) Then position the dash cover back in place...



All done!!!
 

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VERY good writeup with nice pics, but you forgot about the 2 Phillips-head screws on top of the dash in the center vent.

Also, if you don't have the means to secure the gauge with bolts due to any number of reasons you can use electrical tape around the outside housing, just behind the bezel, to take up the gap in between the gauge and the housing. Make sure you use enough, but not too much, to be able to press-fit the gauge into the housing.
 

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you say connect the wires... but to what? I see a black and a white on the stock gauge and RED, GREEN, BLACK on the aftermarket. What's the deal-yo?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
you say connect the wires... but to what? I see a black and a white on the stock gauge and RED, GREEN, BLACK on the aftermarket. What's the deal-yo?
The writeup was done to assist and supplement the instructions, which are all here... VEI Systems -- Intelligent Vehicle Instrumentation -- Technical Info :thumbsup:


Nick S, I didn't do this install (it was someone at VEI) so I am not sure of those screws, but anyone reading this and doing it should figure it out. Thanks. I personally have never been a fan of wrapping with tape, but if it works then cool. :clap:
 

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You forgot to mention the two screws in the dash pad where the windshield defrost vents are. You'll never get the pad off without removing those two screws as well.

edit: Oops, I see someone already mentioned this. Nevermind...
 

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Hi how you remove the prosport electrical boost gauge to install the SRT-4 mechincal boost gauge anybody know how to do this pictures write ups please.
 

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Thanks for the how-to. Just did this to replace my stocker with a 30/30 Autometer. If you stay with autometer, you can keep the factory light pigtail so you don't even have to splice wires.
 

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im pretty sure i followed the instructions correctly so why does it only show boost? At idle it says 2 and when i get on it it tells me im boosting around 25 which is impossible for now. Is there a setting i need to change? any help? thanks
 
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