Dodge SRT Forum banner

1 - 20 of 63 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,842 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, your stuck in 4th gear (or whatever gear your stuck in). You go to upshift into 5th, but you can't. You go to downshift into 2nd, but you can't. Most likely, when your car is stuck in a certain gear, this is because your shift selector is broke.

Now the forums have a how-to on how to replace it, but not actually details on removing it. It can be found here:

http://www.srtforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195243

So you just might assume how EASY it would be to remove it. Well its not that hard, but its not that easy either. Id give this a MEDIUM difficulty rating. The following is a step by step how-to remove the shift selector.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED:
Jack and Stands
Flathead screwdriver
10mm, 13mm, 18mm sockets and ratchet.
13mm ratcheting wrench.

REMOVAL OF AIRBOX/INTAKE, BATTERY, BATTERY TRAY
Remove your intake. (if you don't know how to do these steps, you shouldn't be doing this how-to anyway)
Remove your battery, take off the terminals using your 10mm, then use a 13mm on the bolt behind the battery to unlock it from the tray. (Dont forget to unhook the battery temp sensor you 03/04 owners ;) )
Remove your battery tray, use your 10mm again to remove the 2 front bolts and 2 rear nuts holding the tray in place.

JACKING UP CAR AND TRANSMISSION
Jack up your car and place jack stands under the left (drivers side) to hold it up.
Then place a jack underneath the transmission to support it.


Just jack it up enough to support the transmission, do not raise it, just jack up enough until it touches and you feel a weight against it.

REMOVAL OF MOTOR MOUNT BOLT
You have two choices here, you can take off your drivers side front wheel, or you can just turn your wheel all the way to the left. I performed the latter since when the car is jacked up, the motor mount bolt is exposed and gives me plenty of room.



Use your 18mm and take the bolt out. You may want to use a breaker bar to loosen it at first, then proceed to ratchet it out.



After a lot of ratcheting (it's got a lot of threads), the bolt will come out and the full weight of the trans will be put on the jack.

Lower the jack slowly about just 1 inch, you may be able to do a tad more than that be careful. Once you feel the jack go lighter, that means the motor mounts are taking the brunt of the engines weight so thats how you know you've reached the limit you can lower the trans. At this point, you should jack it back up slightly to relieve the pressure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,842 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
REMOVAL OF SHIFT SELECTOR
Pickup your flathead screwdriver and wedge them underneath the shifter cables and pop them off. The top of the trans should look like this now.



There are seven bolts total holding the selector into the tranmission. Some are hidden by the ABS module and the motor mount bracket. The following picture shows them where they are clearly located so you can compare it. I am also going to number them so you can follow the order on how to take them out.



Now take your 13mm Socket and start ratcheting the easiest bolts. These are bolt numbers 1, 2, and 6.

Next hardest is bolt numbers 4 and 5



You might be able to use the ratchet and socket to loosen both bolts but you cannot use them to completely remove them. The bolts are pretty long and the socket will get wedged underneath the tranny mount bracket. Break them loose with the ratchet them switch to the ratcheting wrench.



Now only two bolts left. :)

Bolt number 3 is located underneath the ABS module. You will have to position the ratcheting wrench so it is facing the turbocharger.



A better view of the actual bolt is here:



Proceed to ratchet wrench it out. One final bolt left.

Bolt number 7 is the hardest one of all of them. This is due to the fact that the shifter cable attachment blocks it COMPLETELY.

First, there are 3 distinct positions for this shifter cable attachment. The 1st is all the way towards the cabin. The 2nd is just a little bit backwards (in the middle of 1 and 3). The 3rd is towards the front of the car. It needs to be in the 3rd position. Pull the shifter attachment towards the front end of the car until it stops from going any more towards the front.

If you have a slim ratcheting wrench you may be able to fit it over the head of the bolt. If not, then you will have to do it like I did, the hard way. Start turning the wrench and continously keep loosening it.



As the bolt rises, so does the whole shift selector assembly! :yay:

When the bolt is loose, the back part of the assembly may still be attached. You will have to use some force here to pull it off, but once you do, your rewarded with the shift selector assemly in your hand and a nice peek at your transmission! :cool:



Then follow the steps on the forums to replace the assemly with a brand new AGP one.

Best of luck guys and gals :bigthumb:

Nolimits

Copied from SRT-4mation for use on SRTforums
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
637 Posts
Thanks for moving it over here. Good info and pics.
 

·
Super Moderator
2021 SUPRA A91 (Refraction Blue)
Joined
·
6,321 Posts
nolimits said:
Hopefully this will get added to the "approved" how-to's.
Added.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
working on this right now...my AGP billet shift selector is going to arrive tomorrow so i decided to have a jump start on it. so far i took off bolts 1,2,4,and 6 completely off. 5 and 7 are loose and 3 is still on.

i have not jacked up the car and loosened the mount though because soemone told me u didnt even need to take the mount off. the only problem im running into is on bolt #5 when i loosen it up the most the battery base that wraps around the mount is interfering. im thinking of just bending it a little bit as a shortcut to skip taking off the mount.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,842 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
srtcuatro said:
working on this right now...my AGP billet shift selector is going to arrive tomorrow so i decided to have a jump start on it. so far i took off bolts 1,2,4,and 6 completely off. 5 and 7 are loose and 3 is still on.

i have not jacked up the car and loosened the mount though because soemone told me u didnt even need to take the mount off. the only problem im running into is on bolt #5 when i loosen it up the most the battery base that wraps around the mount is interfering. im thinking of just bending it a little bit as a shortcut to skip taking off the mount.
Thats why you just remove the trans mount bolt. Your not removing the tranny mount itself, just the bolt, so that way the trans lowers that 1 inch so you will be able to have enough clearance from the battery and ABS thingie to actually remove those bolts. Good luck with the install.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,764 Posts
NOte.. clean the whole assembly area BEFORE removal as you can see from those pics he now has dirt in his tranny:jester:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
961 Posts
thanks everyone who made this thread possible and to those who updated with more info
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
854 Posts
You could probably get away with using 13mm as that is a little bigger then 1/2", but if you want to be safe and not worry about possibly stripping the head on the bolt as they are extremely tight, then I would suggest to use the exact fit, which is 1/2"

I like to use the right size, not one close to it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
I had a question, not sure it goes here but im going to ask anyways :D, If my shift selector did bite the dust, I want to replace it with an AGP billet one, but if it is my selector and I replace it with that, and something happens again in the tranny, something else will break before that billet selector does, is this a good idea? I just don't want to be replacing tranny's every 2-3 months.
 
1 - 20 of 63 Posts
Top