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I haven't found a good write up for pulling the stock turbo so I decided to write my own. This is my first time doing a write up so we'll see how it goes.

Tools you will need:
Ratchet
*Second Ratchet or breaker bar
Flat head screwdriver
10mm Socket Shallow and Deep
12mm Socket
16mm Socket Shallow and Deep
5/16 Wrench
*12mm 12-point Socket
Short and Long Extensions
*Snap Ring Pliers
*Large Needle Nose Pliers
Rubber Mallet
Shop Towels
Zip Ties

* - Denotes only required if rebuilding turbo

Bolt Sizes:
Coil Pack - 10mm
Oil Feed - 16mm
Coolant Lines - 16mm
Oil Return - 5/16"
V-band Clamp - 10mm

Removing Turbo:

Remove Intake and Battery

Remove Coil Pack - Disconnect the Electrical connector on the Pack. Remove spark plug wires. Remove 4 10mm bolts. Set coil pack aside.



Remove Turbo Heat Shield - Not sure what size bolts or how many. Mine wasn't on prior to the removal this time. It takes some wiggling but you'll get it out.

Remove Wastegate - Remove the cotter pin holding the wastegate arm to the actuator. Remove the 2 12mm bolts holding the wastegate to the compressor housing. Set wastegate aside.


If you use a long extension you can get to the bottom bolt easy:


Do yourself a favor and remove this clamp that holds the oil feed line to the valve cover. It's super annoying if you don't.


Remove all Vacuum hoses from the turbo housing

Remove The V-Band Clamp - I believe its a 10mm bolt. Set Aside.


Remove the Oil Feed Banjo Bolt - 16mm bolt. Be really careful not to loose the 2 copper crush washers and both sides of the feed line.


The socket in that picture was too tall to fit the ratchet over. Luckily I had a shorter socket in my tool box

It made all the difference. You might need to use a 16mm wrench.

Undo the hose clamp connecting the intercooler piping to the compressor housing.

Break turbo away from manifold - Use a rubber mallet to break the turbo loose from the manifold. A few soft hits should do.


Pull Turbo out and away from manifold - With the clamp removed from the intercooler piping you should be able to pull the turbo away from the manifold and towards you a little bit so the hot side pipe comes off the housing.


Remove the Manifold Spacer - Be careful not drop the spacer when pulling the turbo from the manifold.



Now is a good time to stuff a towel in the hotside piping to prevent coolant, oil or debris from getting in.

Remove Coolant Lines - remove the 2 16mm banjo bolts on the backside of the turbo. Again be very careful not the drop the copper crush washers just like on the oil feed line. Some coolant will drain out, be prepared with a towel.

Now that the hotside pipe is disconnected you should have plenty of room to pull the turbo towards you and get a ratchet and a deep 16mm socket on the bolts.


Remove the oil drain line - There are 2 small bolt on the oil drain line. Only the bolt closest to the firewall needs to be fully remove. The other bolts only needs to be loosened. You will be thanking Mitsubishi for that when your done.

Pro-tip: Have small hands

You can now remove the turbo from the car.


If you plan on doing a rebuild yourself these are a few tools you will need to make your life easier:




I could go through the rebuild process here but there is a YouTube video that does an awesome job. Its called how to rebuild a turbo, theres a part 1 and part 2. Disclaimer - it is not my video. The guy in the video rebuilds a TD05 16G off an EVO with a bigger housing than our turbo but the process is pretty much the same.

Installing the Turbo:

The first thing I recommend doing is to ziptie the vacuum hose for the green line that goes on the back of the housing. Its basically impossible to get a good ziptie on after the turbo is installed.

You own a turbo car so I'm assuming you have a ziptie gun. Grab it and secure that hose on tight.



Install order - I've found that the best order for installing the turbo are as follows:

Attach the oil feed line - Install the bolt farthest from the firewall halfway first to make it easier to install the second bolt. There is a gasket that could go here. None of my rebuild kit have had one and I've never used one. I haven't had any leaks. Just make sure the surfaces are good and clean.

Insert the turbo into the manifold - Dont forget the spacer ring. Take note there is a clocking pin that the ring needs to line up on



Install the V-Band clamp - Before you tighten the bolt all the way, make sure the wheel can spin freely.

Attach the hotside piping onto the compressor housing - With the turbo in the manifold the compressor housing will be jammed against the hotside piping. Use you finger or a flathead screwdriver to maneuver the piping around the flange. This is always the hardest part of the install for me.

Install the coolant lines - Install the return line first. You should still have room to get a shallow socket on each bolt, just not a ton. Be sure to install the copper crush washers, careful to not drop them.

Install the oil feed line - Be sure to install the copper crush washers, careful to not drop them.

Attach and zip tie all vacuum hoses - preferably with a ziptie gun

Install the wastegate - 2 bolts and a cotter pin

Install the heat shield -Be sure to attach anything you may have removed to get more room to work

Install the coil pack

Install the battery and Intake

Prime the Turbo
Be sure to prime the turbo with oil before starting the engine. Leave the coil pack connector off. Remove the fuel pump relay. Crank the engine over about 4 times.

Ensure everything is hooked up properly, start the engine and check for leaks.

*IMPORTANT* you are very close to being done but you are not there yet. You will be finished as soon as you properly complete a boost leak test.

I think that about covers everything. Sorry if I dumbed it down to much for any of you. If I missed anything or anyone has any tips they would like me to add let me know. PM me with any questions about removal, install or the rebuild process.
 

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Thanks you for the write up.....I'll be doing this soon and I'll refer to this verbatim. I'll post back with my results!!!
 

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Sorry for the thread revival, which snap ring pliers would I need for the stock turbo? I've been searching, but keep seeing vague descriptions.
 

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They are large snap ring pliers seen pictured above

If your not sure what pliers to use then you have not done enough research to do a turbo rebuild without failure

For a simple re&re the pliers are not used.

Also loosening the hot side pipe with a 15mm wrench will save you an hour of dicking around with the install

I know from doing 20plus installs on my own car of the turbo setup.
 

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They are large snap ring pliers seen pictured above

If your not sure what pliers to use then you have not done enough research to do a turbo rebuild without failure

For a simple re&re the pliers are not used.

Also loosening the hot side pipe with a 15mm wrench will save you an hour of dicking around with the install

I know from doing 20plus installs on my own car of the turbo setup.
Up until this point I have not needed to remove the turbo. I've done enough research to understand there's a right tool and a wrong tool.

Given how many others have performed this task I figured it would be easier to ask in the How To thread.
 

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I haven't found a good write up for pulling the stock turbo so I decided to write my own. This is my first time doing a write up so we'll see how it goes.

Tools you will need:
Ratchet
*Second Ratchet or breaker bar
Flat head screwdriver
10mm Socket Shallow and Deep
12mm Socket
16mm Socket Shallow and Deep
5/16 Wrench
*12mm 12-point Socket
Short and Long Extensions
*Snap Ring Pliers
*Large Needle Nose Pliers
Rubber Mallet
Shop Towels
Zip Ties

* - Denotes only required if rebuilding turbo

Bolt Sizes:
Coil Pack - 10mm
Oil Feed - 16mm
Coolant Lines - 16mm
Oil Return - 5/16"
V-band Clamp - 10mm

Removing Turbo:

Remove Intake and Battery

Remove Coil Pack
- Disconnect the Electrical connector on the Pack. Remove spark plug wires. Remove 4 10mm bolts. Set coil pack aside.



Remove Turbo Heat Shield - Not sure what size bolts or how many. Mine wasn't on prior to the removal this time. It takes some wiggling but you'll get it out.

Remove Wastegate - Remove the cotter pin holding the wastegate arm to the actuator. Remove the 2 12mm bolts holding the wastegate to the compressor housing. Set wastegate aside.


If you use a long extension you can get to the bottom bolt easy:


Do yourself a favor and remove this clamp that holds the oil feed line to the valve cover. It's super annoying if you don't.


Remove all Vacuum hoses from the turbo housing

Remove The V-Band Clamp
- I believe its a 10mm bolt. Set Aside.


Remove the Oil Feed Banjo Bolt - 16mm bolt. Be really careful not to loose the 2 copper crush washers and both sides of the feed line.


The socket in that picture was too tall to fit the ratchet over. Luckily I had a shorter socket in my tool box

It made all the difference. You might need to use a 16mm wrench.

Undo the hose clamp connecting the intercooler piping to the compressor housing.

Break turbo away from manifold - Use a rubber mallet to break the turbo loose from the manifold. A few soft hits should do.


Pull Turbo out and away from manifold - With the clamp removed from the intercooler piping you should be able to pull the turbo away from the manifold and towards you a little bit so the hot side pipe comes off the housing.


Remove the Manifold Spacer - Be careful not drop the spacer when pulling the turbo from the manifold.



Now is a good time to stuff a towel in the hotside piping to prevent coolant, oil or debris from getting in.

Remove Coolant Lines - remove the 2 16mm banjo bolts on the backside of the turbo. Again be very careful not the drop the copper crush washers just like on the oil feed line. Some coolant will drain out, be prepared with a towel.

Now that the hotside pipe is disconnected you should have plenty of room to pull the turbo towards you and get a ratchet and a deep 16mm socket on the bolts.


Remove the oil drain line - There are 2 small bolt on the oil drain line. Only the bolt closest to the firewall needs to be fully remove. The other bolts only needs to be loosened. You will be thanking Mitsubishi for that when your done.

Pro-tip: Have small hands

You can now remove the turbo from the car.


If you plan on doing a rebuild yourself these are a few tools you will need to make your life easier:




I could go through the rebuild process here but there is a YouTube video that does an awesome job. Its called how to rebuild a turbo, theres a part 1 and part 2. Disclaimer - it is not my video. The guy in the video rebuilds a TD05 16G off an EVO with a bigger housing than our turbo but the process is pretty much the same.

Installing the Turbo:

The first thing I recommend doing is to ziptie the vacuum hose for the green line that goes on the back of the housing. Its basically impossible to get a good ziptie on after the turbo is installed.

You own a turbo car so I'm assuming you have a ziptie gun. Grab it and secure that hose on tight.



Install order - I've found that the best order for installing the turbo are as follows:

Attach the oil feed line - Install the bolt farthest from the firewall halfway first to make it easier to install the second bolt. There is a gasket that could go here. None of my rebuild kit have had one and I've never used one. I haven't had any leaks. Just make sure the surfaces are good and clean.

Insert the turbo into the manifold - Dont forget the spacer ring. Take note there is a clocking pin that the ring needs to line up on



Install the V-Band clamp - Before you tighten the bolt all the way, make sure the wheel can spin freely.

Attach the hotside piping onto the compressor housing - With the turbo in the manifold the compressor housing will be jammed against the hotside piping. Use you finger or a flathead screwdriver to maneuver the piping around the flange. This is always the hardest part of the install for me.

Install the coolant lines - Install the return line first. You should still have room to get a shallow socket on each bolt, just not a ton. Be sure to install the copper crush washers, careful to not drop them.

Install the oil feed line - Be sure to install the copper crush washers, careful to not drop them.

Attach and zip tie all vacuum hoses - preferably with a ziptie gun

Install the wastegate - 2 bolts and a cotter pin

Install the heat shield -Be sure to attach anything you may have removed to get more room to work

Install the coil pack

Install the battery and Intake

Prime the Turbo

Be sure to prime the turbo with oil before starting the engine. Leave the coil pack connector off. Remove the fuel pump relay. Crank the engine over about 4 times.

Ensure everything is hooked up properly, start the engine and check for leaks.

IMPORTANT you are very close to being done but you are not there yet. You will be finished as soon as you properly complete a boost leak test.

I think that about covers everything. Sorry if I dumbed it down to much for any of you. If I missed anything or anyone has any tips they would like me to add let me know. PM me with any questions about removal, install or the rebuild process.
Thank You, Awsome instructions. I am having troubles with stock replacement turbo binding when installing with the clocked spacer lined up and putting the v band clamp in place. The fan will spin until i get pressure on the v band clamp ??? Any suggestions, Please
 

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Thank You, Awsome instructions. I am having troubles with stock replacement turbo binding when installing with the clocked spacer lined up and putting the v band clamp in place. The fan will spin until i get pressure on the v band clamp ??? Any suggestions, Please
More than likely the turbo is not sitting flush. I ran into that issue lately. Thought I had it flush and put on v band clamp, but the fan wouldn't spin. Finally got it seated all the way around correctly and spins free.
 
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