Dodge SRT Forum banner

521 - 540 of 556 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,480 Posts
So ill b safe reving out to 7000 with the oil pressure around 23-24, that's what it is when I'm up in the rpms
it should be 25psi+ at 3000 rpms as the manual states.

7k should probably be around 60+ psi
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
239 Posts
I just did the balance shaft delete with housing re-install since I didn't buy my windage plate yet.
1. The shakes. Nothing I noticed. I run a mpx downpipe to mpx side pipe and the only thing I feel is a very slight brake pedal vibrate, full agp solid mounts all around.
2. Revs. Nothing changed really
3. Power. You can tell a bit changed. 5-7hp is a pretty accurate guess.
4. Oil pressure. About a 2-3psi increase at the head. I idle around 16psi and at 3000 rpms I'm at 27 at the head.
Glad I did it. Scary thing I noticed that I forgot out this type of oil cooler since I built a dsm a few years ago. When I unbolted mine some camshaft break in metal came out, I did my cams 9000 miles and 3 oil changes ago lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
747 Posts
So just a quick question if I don't want to get straps and trays etc. and want to leave the assembly in the pan, how to I stop oil pressure getting wasted in the assembly that is no longer serving a purpose?? Or is it best to remove everything and get straps, windage tray, and new pickup?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
WOW... I called it.WE NEED AN ADMIN TO EDIT THIS HOW TO RIGHT NOW BEFORE MORE PEOPLE MESS UP THEIR ENGINES!!!

Seriously I said this a while back and I'm sure I'm not the first person this is 37 Plus page how to who is going to read every single post before attempting it? They are going to trust it is right! Now that I know better I would have obviously done more research then so stupidity trusting an internet hot to. However I know there are people out there that aren't fortunate enough to have all the mechanical knowledge we do and they count on how to's to be informan!

Please somebody anybody gather a lot of the information in this post and do a little edit!! it's not fair to people who have to redo oil pan gasket 5 quarts of oil filter, pointless time and money/possible engine damage from low oil pressure, or even a blown motor etc...because someone couldn't take 5 minutes or 10 or an hour to update/remake a forum STICKY HOW-TO!!!!!

Keep in mind I am well aware of the fact no " how to" engine mod can be safe. I completely understand that this is a modification how to, key word being modification. I know how to forums are100 percent user risk and is absolutely not guaranteed and are in fact technically "not recommended" but putting everything in the right place on the first page would definitely be helpful
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,480 Posts
^ I agree with Ben,

although if the feed hole is blocked off, you'll never have a worry with this. That's the only way I have done it on a dozen + cars and numerous engine builds
 

·
Premium Member (Lifetime), SRT of the Month
Joined
·
9,177 Posts
WOW... I called it.WE NEED AN ADMIN TO EDIT THIS HOW TO RIGHT NOW BEFORE MORE PEOPLE MESS UP THEIR ENGINES!!!

Seriously I said this a while back and I'm sure I'm not the first person this is 37 Plus page how to who is going to read every single post before attempting it? They are going to trust it is right! Now that I know better I would have obviously done more research then so stupidity trusting an internet hot to. However I know there are people out there that aren't fortunate enough to have all the mechanical knowledge we do and they count on how to's to be informan!

Please somebody anybody gather a lot of the information in this post and do a little edit!! it's not fair to people who have to redo oil pan gasket 5 quarts of oil filter, pointless time and money/possible engine damage from low oil pressure, or even a blown motor etc...because someone couldn't take 5 minutes or 10 or an hour to update/remake a forum STICKY HOW-TO!!!!!

Keep in mind I am well aware of the fact no " how to" engine mod can be safe. I completely understand that this is a modification how to, key word being modification. I know how to forums are100 percent user risk and is absolutely not guaranteed and are in fact technically "not recommended" but putting everything in the right place on the first page would definitely be helpful

chill out!!! And read. Title I believe is BS chain removal not the whole shaft.




^ I agree with Ben,

although if the feed hole is blocked off, you'll never have a worry with this. That's the only way I have done it on a dozen + cars and numerous engine builds

this thread it just for cutting the chain as long as u put the bolts back in place no worries.




never blocked feed...left assembly in place. No oil pressure issues 185k pristine. The hole usually needs blocking after removing the entire assembly not just cutting the chain
^^^ this.

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,711 Posts
I've been on this forum for a couple years :)readclose) and it has ALWAYS been known if you remove the entire assembly you will need to block off the oil feed hole for the balance shafts. Everyone that provides a windage tray/baffle setup provides a means to block said hole (or at least tells you to do so). But, as Mr. Under has stated, this How-To is not for the removal of the entire assembly, but instead, the actual chain to avoid premature failure of the ridiculous plastic guides our cars come with stock. In addition, performing a modification to your car without doing proper, and thorough research is, to put it kindly, not so intelligent.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
595 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,417 Posts
Haha at screwing this up. This topic has been beat to absolute death.

When I built the motor and strapped the block, I modded my BS assembly and put it back in for a a cheap windage assembly. Hole is welded shut and I have no oil squirters, so oil pressure galore.

Solid mounts all around too. It's a little much for some people NVH-wise, but I have a high tolerance for that, so I daily drive it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
I did this few months ago... not for the HP gain but for reliability, you can feel the vibration but is not that hard.
 

·
SRTforums Member
Joined
·
554 Posts
I did this over the winter. I had solid motor mounts but not trans mount. I only notice anything between 1200 and 1800 rpms. Besides that I don't notice any difference. I also did this for the reliability since I'm on e85 and a 50trim and I wanted to make sure the guides didn't get a chance to let go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
0 Posts
Hi guys,
is it ok to do this procedure on Caliber SRT4 2008?

I've just changed timing chain and noticed that balancing shaft chain is also stretched alot.
I have my engine open atm and wouldn't like to wait for a week for new parts to come..

EDIT: I've just read that oil pump is attached to shaft, is it true?
 
521 - 540 of 556 Posts
Top