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Can’t believe no one has done a How-To for this yet. I noticed that my parking brake shoes were really low the last time I took my rotors off. One shoe was actually falling apart so I decided it was time to replace them. You’ll only need a few things for this project:

  • 19mm socket for wheels
  • Large jaw pliers for dust cap / shoe clips
  • 30mm socket for spindle nut
  • 10mm socket/wrench for caliper guide bolts
  • Bungee cords to hang calipers (I just place the calipers on the saybars..)
  • 2 new 30mm spindle nuts (Mopar Part# 6502432)
  • New brake shoes. I used Dura-Last brand from AutoZone because they were less than ½ the price of new OEM ones. They look identical.
  • Brake cleaner, sand paper
Start by jacking up the rear of the car. Make sure you have a 2x4 blocking the front wheels and the car is in first gear to prevent it from rolling forward. Remove the wheel. DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME SO YOU HAVE A REFERENCE. From there, you want to remove the rear caliper. Remove both the guide bolts using a 10mm socket or wrench (Red arrows below).



After both bolts are removed, gently grab the guide pins (the parts the bolts went into on the caliper) and from the top of the caliper, lift up and towards the back of the car.




After the caliper is removed, hook up some bungee cord and attach the caliper to your springs, or just gently place the caliper on the sway bar. Do not let it dangle freely.
Next you’ll want to remove the wheel hub. You can probably get away without doing this but it’s a tight fit, and if you’re trying to figure it out for the first time it’s probably easier to just remove the hub. Use a large jaw pliers to remove the dust cap.




After the dust cap is removed, you’ll want to remove the spindle nut. It’s a 30mm nut. It’s on pretty tight, but you shouldn’t have any issues if you use a breaker bar.



After the nut is removed, pull on the hub. It should slide right off. Now the parking brake assembly is fully exposed. Take note of the orientation and placement of everything, take a picture. There really aren’t a whole lot of pieces to it. To remove the assembly, first remove the clips holding on the assembly (Circled in red below). Once you see them it’s pretty obvious how they work. Use the large mouth pliers to pinch them shut, then from the back of the assembly push the anchor towards you and turn it until you can fit it through the hole in the clip. There are two clips, they both work the same way.



Next remove the bottom spring (red below). I just used the tip of a screw driver to move the hook so the spring would come loose.



After the bottom spring is removed, grab both shoes from the bottom and pry them apart. Don’t worry if the star adjuster nut falls (The thing above the bottom spring). Just don’t lose it. Pry them apart enough to wiggle the whole assembly free. The top spring can stay on while you do this. You only need to separate the shoes enough to free them from the parking brake lever shown below circled in red.



After the assembly is removed, remove the top spring from the shoes. Lube up all of the loose parts except the new shoes with some PB blaster or wd40 and clean them all off. Install the top spring on your new set of shoes the same way they came off (Spring out). After the top spring is connected to the shoes, they are ready to be installed.

Now comes the tricky part. At the top part of the shoes, there is a notch where the shoes ride on the axle assembly (Circled in blue below). The parking brake lever sits in the larger slots on the shoes (circled in red below). I found it easiest to maneuver the shoes onto the axle assembly first, then pull the shoes apart from the bottom and wiggle the parking brake lever into the grooves.



Once the shoes are on the axle assembly and the parking lever is installed, install the star adjuster screw that is in front of the bottom spring, it’s pretty obvious how it works. The screw should be towards the back of the car. Install the metal clips that hold the shoes to the assembly and reinstall the bottom spring holding the assembly together.

After it’s all hooked up, test the e-brake to make sure everything is working properly. Only the rear shoe seemed to move for me, but I assume its normal as both sides did the same thing. After you have verified that the shoes are installed properly, you’ll want to clean the brake shoes. Liberally spray brake cleaner at the shoes to clean off any debris.

Next you want to re-install the hub. Clean the axle surface and hub of debris and slide the hub onto the axle. A NEW spindle nut should be used to prevent it from backing out. It’s a one-time use nut. Torque the spindle nut to 160ft/lb. Gently tap on the dust cap to seal the bearing.

Now you’ll want to adjust your new shoes. I adjusted mine with the rotors on the car, using a flat head screw driver to turn the star nut. If there is any rust or debris on the inside of the rotor, you may want to sand them so they are smooth and clean, no point in screwing up your new shoes. While the rotor was on the car, I tightened the star screw so that I could barely free turn the rotor, then backed it off a little bit. If you pull on the rotor and it does not come off the hub without a hassle you need to retract the shoes a bit. I left mine when I could feel the pads rubbing when I removed the rotor but could still wiggle the rotor off.

Now reinstall the brake caliper. Use your hands to move the caliper guides away from you so you can set the caliper into position. Reinstall the caliper guide bolts and torque to 192 in/lb.

Reinstall the wheel and torque the lug nuts to 100ft/lb. Now do the other side the same way.

To break in the shoes, I just did a few very light slowdowns using the e-brake to heat them up. Then I let the car sit for a couple hours with the e-brake dis-engaged so the shoes would cool down properly. I have no idea if this is how I was supposed to do it, but that’s what I read online. If you constantly smell burning pads, you need to back off the parking brake adjuster nut slightly. There is an access hole on the inside of the axle assembly with a rubber cap. Take that off to adjust the star nut according to this thread: http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f75/how-parking-e-brake-adjustment-368008/

I hope this helps someone. Feel free to leave some suggestions!
 

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hmmm just ordered a set from rockauto for $12
nice right up!
ill be referring back to this, this weekend!! :thumbsup:
 

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hmmm just ordered a set from rockauto for $12
nice right up!
ill be referring back to this, this weekend!! :thumbsup:
Could I get some input as to the difficulty of this project? My wife has taught me how to do disk brakes and says it's easy, I'd agree. However her father has warned her not to touch drum type of brakes due to the pieces that you have to mess with and put back on right. How would you all rate the difficulty and would it be difficult to a novice? If you could provide a rating 1-5 , 5 being the most difficult , what would you rate this project as?


My issue is that I have drove with the parking brake on , on accident about 20 feet about 3 or 4 times. Over the years my P Brake I have to pull up all the way to get the car to stop. I have not tried to adjust the star nut yet.

Thanks!
 

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I can't get the dust cap off. Seems like its rusted on ok to use pb blaster?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I can't see why that'd hurt anything, just make sure to clean anything off the rotors really good with a degreaser before re-installing everything. I mangled mine getting them off so I just bought new ones, they were only a couple bucks.
 

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It's possible to do without removing the hub, It took me about 10 minutes to do once i got the rotor off. I know it's a few years old, but good write up btw. I used this as a reference when i did mine.
 

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Ill take a shot without removing if not ill grab a screwdriver or Bfh.
 

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nice write up..
the source of my p-brake issue was the liner had fallen off the shoe.
 

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After it’s all hooked up, test the e-brake to make sure everything is working properly. Only the rear shoe seemed to move for me, but I assume its normal as both sides did the same thing.
Yes, as the drum is off. In operation, the rear shoe pushes against the drum to activate the front shoe. But a fine test to verify the cable is free. I once had a Nova from Minnesota (very rusty) and the parking brake felt normal. I noticed during some underbody work that the cable did not activate the brakes (like your test) -- the sheathed section between body and drum was rusted solid and all I had been doing was tensioning the cable from the pedal under the dash!
 
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