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So, forewarning: I had access to a full shop/lift and 2 floor jacks. (Only 2 floor jacks and jack-stands needed + basic hand tools (Torx socket) and crank damper puller ) I did this in 2 hours, most people will take 4 hours or MORE.

Please note: There is a real possibility of breaking axles/hoses/tubes/ exc .. doing this. Take your time and if you hear something or feel something binding, please STOP and check what it is!

*1: Remove clean air hose to turbo and airbox (mine was already removed)
*2: Remove battery and tray (4 10mm bolts on top, 1 13mm pointing to front bumper)
*3: Remove upper engine mount (Engine strut)
*4: Loosen alternator belt (Loosen 2 15mm nuts pointing at passenger fender, Loosen! DO NOT remove! 13mm bolt pointing at firewall) (Side note It's easier to reach the bottom 15mm nut from below)
*5: (If you don't have an impact wrench, loosen lug nuts now ) Set front end on jack-stands or raise if you have a lift (front wheels off ground)
*6: Remove both front wheels
*7: Loosen passenger axle nut (leave the nut attached on the end of the threads) make sure you can press it in, might need to smack it with a plastic/rubber hammer. DO NOT damage the threads!!!
*8: Remove plastic bolt covers from middle engine mount + trans mount bolts (inner splash shields) Remove Belt splash shield
*9: Remove lower engine mount (Engine strut) and vertical strut to frame
*10: Remove p/s + a/c belt (15mm wrench on tensioner) Remove alternator belt now
*11: Remove crankshaft damper (Harmonic balancer) You'll need a damper removal tool!
*12: Position 1 floor jack under the trans and one under the oil pan with a block of wood. Slightly raise engine and trans. (leave the handles pointing away from the car left+right)
*13: Remove trans bolt in driver's splash shield (18mm) and lower trans to remove the 3 bolts holding the mount to trans (3 13mm or 15mm can't remember and a swivel will help!)
*14:This part is up to you. I left the trans mount un-bolted but still in, or you can remove it.
*15:Remove the middle motor mount bolt (Torx can't remember the size)

NOTE: THE ENGINE IS NOW ONLY SUPPORTED BY THE FLOOR JACKS! MAKE SURE YOU DON'T PINCH/BENT/ OR BREAK ANYTHING!

*16:Use a pry bar against the frame and the big metal plate in front of the timing belt cover. Try to "push" the engine + trans toward the drivers side as much as possible. If you removed the trans mount it'll be easier. If the trans mount is still in there but un-bolted, make sure the trans goes "under" the mount, toward the drivers side. Now is a good time to push the passenger axle "in". Leave the nut on the axle end.
*17: After you've pushed the engine+trans as far as you can toward the drivers side you can remove the middle motor mount bolts. (4 13mm bolts)
*18: Raise the engine (being careful not to pinch/bent/ or break anything) enough for the mount to clear the big metal plate in front of the timing belt. You need to turn the middle motor mount so the "flat" edge is pointing "up" (You'll see what I mean)
*19: It's so close you can taste it now :) You'll have to raise + lower the engine+trans jacks until it's ALMOST out.
*20: Once it's ALMOST out. Have a friend grab the middle of the intake manifold and pull "forward" towards the front bumper. You should have JUST enough room between the frame/crankshaft/p/s pulley/engine mount plate to pull it up out the top. NOTE what orientation the mount is in when you get it out. The new one will have to go back in the same EXACT way!

*Install: Start with The middle motor mount to frame bolts, then engine/frame torx bolt. (be aware there are 2 metal "tabs" the middle motor mount sit inside on the big metal plate in-front of the timing belt) Next re-install or re-mount the 3 trans-to-mount bolts and then the trans/frame bolt. (Leave the Torx and the trans frame bolts slightly loose to help you re-align the other mounts)

All other install is reverse of removal.
Once you get the other mounts (engine struts) re-attached, Tighten the Torx and trans frame bolts. When re-installing the crankshaft damper either use an install tool or lightly tap it onto the crankshaft. MAKE SURE you have a good bit of threads inside the crankshaft BEFORE you try to tighten it down! If you strip the threads out you are not going to have a good time!

Not sure if anyone has ever made a how-to on this (I know I haven't found one) But hopefully it'll help someone in the future. I know I put it off for 5 years because I wasn't sure if it was possible. (I had already replaced my timing belt and didn't want to go in there again)
 

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Good job.:thumbsup: There is one or two around but they are probably archived somewhere.
Patience is the biggest thing to have and check and double check.:nerd2:
 

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Great write up. Going to be having a shop do my timing belt/center mount. They said for the 4th/center mount the motor needs to be taken out to get to it....Is that what the FSM calls for. Also they said a special tool is needed for the cam seals that they do not have..
 
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