nice! thanks Maurice 
HOW-TO: Make Turbo Toys Harness
9
This has been a long time coming now and I had promised to post a how-to concerning creating a wiring harness for DIY'er who wants to add turbo toys to their Stage 2/3 vehicle. This is a pretty detailed HOW-TO and even though I have already completed the project there is far too much info for me to post in one sitting, so please check back for updates. I will add more as I can.
In my case I started out with a Stage 2 no/toys vehicle, and just recently upgraded to Stage 3. Consequently I didn't have the toys bezel or any of the wiring to use Turbo Toys with Stage 3. This left me with two options: 1) order a phrozen/N2MB toybox (which is a great value), or 2) make my own wiring and order a Mopar Turbo Toys bezel through S&P. I chose the latter because I really like the factory look of the Turbo Toys bezel.
This HOW-TO will describe how I created my own wiring to use HOM and DAB functions with a Mopar Turbo Toys bezel and a turbo toys equipped PCM. Wiring of the intercooler sprayer function has been omitted because I feel it increases the degree of complexity greatly and adds very little benefit to performance.
Reference Information:
First thing first, we need to familiarize ourselves with how the Turbo Toys are installed. Rather than wasting the energy on writing another HOW-TO for installing the harness, I will rather direct you to this thread: HOW-TO: Install Stage 2 w/Toys - SRT Forums - SRT4, SRT6, SRT8, SRT10 & Dodge Forum
Carefully read the sections concerning the routing of the Turbo Toys harness, and the modification of the PCM connectors to accept the new wiring.
Items Needed:
Things to Purchase through S&P:
-Mopar Turbo Toys Bezel
-NGC PCM pins (comes in strips of 10, we will only use 4)
-HOM LED (includes pre-wired resistor, and mounting bezel)
Things to Purchase elsewhere:
-Shrink wrap (lots of it, and different sizes, Lowes or Home Depot has it)
-Generic socket receptacles (sorry no part number for these, try radio shack, digikey, mouser, etc.)
-Black 20 awg wire (24ft)
-Six different colored 20 awg wires (12ft each)
-Crimp on bolt terminal (used for chassis ground cable)
-Solder (preferably silver solder, or flux core)
-Electrical tape
-"Expando" sleeving or you can use that convoluted split tubing if you like (12ft)
-6 Pin Male and Female connectors (Radio Shack)
-2 Pin Male and Female connectors (Radio Shack)
-Zipties (owning an SRT-4 you should already have a good supply of these)
Tools:
-Phillips head screwdriver
-Flat head screwdriver
-Heat gun for shrink wrap (a lighter will suffice)
-Soldering Pencil/Gun/Iron
-Razor blade or X-acto knife
-Crimping tool
Building the Bezel Sub-Harness:
Below is a diagram of how I have laid out the wiring:
![]()
When buying wire for this harness, try to buy as many different colors as you can get. This will make things easier when it comes to hook up the wires to the PCM. Fortunately we have a electronics surplus house over by me called Skycraft which buys leftover supplies from Lockheed Martin, Pratt & Whitney, etc. which happened to carry as many wire colors as I could imagine. So you will notice my wiring harness is very similar color wise to the Mopar harness. All the wires are 20awg.
So the first step to building this wiring harness is making a small sub-harness for the Turbo Toys bezel. You'll need about 4-6" of wire for each connection. The picture below shows some generic receptacle sockets I also found at Skycraft. These are probably the hardest part to find. The ones I used were slightly big, so I used a crimping tool to close the opening a little.
![]()
Below you can see I have soldered the receptacles to the sub-harness wires.
![]()
Lastly, before making any connectioned we want to shield as much of the receptacle and wire as we can with shrink wrap. Once you start inserting these onto the pins in the back of the bezel you will see why. We will repeat these steps for each wire we hook to the turbo toys bezel.
![]()
The picture below shows the connections to the HOM switch. As you can see, one of the pins is not used. Also note how close the pins are. Without the heat shrink you risk the chance of shorting the wires together.
![]()
If you look at the picture above, you notice to the lower left there is a locating notch where the factory Mopar connector would normally plug in. It is not so important for the HOM switch because you can mix the wires up and it will still work. However when we wire the DAB switch it will be important to note the wire order in relation to this locating notch.
![]()
Unfortunately I didn't manage to get a good picture of the DAB switch straight on. But above is a side view. The connector locating notch is on the bottom, and from top to bottom the wire order is this: DAB output voltage, 5v supply, ground, DAB illumination.
Once you have run your wires to the HOM and DAB switch, you can now add a 6 pin connector of your choice. I chose some easily available Radio Shack connectors:
![]()
When you're done you should have a turbo toys sub-harness that looks like this:
![]()
If you want to make it "pretty" you can add some sleeving and shrink wrap to bundle the wires together before the connector.
We will use the rest of the 12ft of wiring to create the rest of the harness. I will talk about that next time I update, but for now here is a picture:
![]()
MAKING CONNECTIONS TO THE PCM
Ahh the PCM connections. Did you buy the NGC PCM connector pins from S&P Development? You'll definitely need those no matter what.
These are gold plated pins made specifically to fit in the PCM connectors. If you look back at my diagram of the wiring, you will need to crimp PCM connector pins on each of the following wires:
1) DAB Output Voltage (Gray)
2) HOM Signal (White)
3) HOM LED (Red)
The black ground wires can be grounded anywhere to the chassis of the car, so just crimp on a ground lug and bolt it to a metal part on the body.
The purple wire on the diagram, "5V for DAB", will need to be soldered onto another wire coming out of the PCM connector.
Basically you are going to follow the last part of this tutorial when making the connections to the PCM.
http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f75/how-install-stage-2-w-toys-204082/
On the Black PCM connector:
You will need to find a Violet wire with a White tracer line. You need to solder the "5V for DAB" to this wire. Make sure you wrap this connection with electrical tape once soldered.
On the White PCM connector:
You will need to follow the Stage 2 tutorial I posted to open up the connector. You are going to insert the "HOM LED" (Red) wire into cavity #2. You are going to insert the "HOM Signal" (White) wire into cavity #14.
On the Orange PCM connector:
Again, follow the Stage 2 tutorial. You are going to insert the "DAB Output Voltage" (Gray) wire into cavity #22.
MORE TO COME SOON
In my case I started out with a Stage 2 no/toys vehicle, and just recently upgraded to Stage 3. Consequently I didn't have the toys bezel or any of the wiring to use Turbo Toys with Stage 3. This left me with two options: 1) order a phrozen/N2MB toybox (which is a great value), or 2) make my own wiring and order a Mopar Turbo Toys bezel through S&P. I chose the latter because I really like the factory look of the Turbo Toys bezel.
This HOW-TO will describe how I created my own wiring to use HOM and DAB functions with a Mopar Turbo Toys bezel and a turbo toys equipped PCM. Wiring of the intercooler sprayer function has been omitted because I feel it increases the degree of complexity greatly and adds very little benefit to performance.
Reference Information:
First thing first, we need to familiarize ourselves with how the Turbo Toys are installed. Rather than wasting the energy on writing another HOW-TO for installing the harness, I will rather direct you to this thread: HOW-TO: Install Stage 2 w/Toys - SRT Forums - SRT4, SRT6, SRT8, SRT10 & Dodge Forum
Carefully read the sections concerning the routing of the Turbo Toys harness, and the modification of the PCM connectors to accept the new wiring.
Items Needed:
Things to Purchase through S&P:
-Mopar Turbo Toys Bezel
-NGC PCM pins (comes in strips of 10, we will only use 4)
-HOM LED (includes pre-wired resistor, and mounting bezel)
Things to Purchase elsewhere:
-Shrink wrap (lots of it, and different sizes, Lowes or Home Depot has it)
-Generic socket receptacles (sorry no part number for these, try radio shack, digikey, mouser, etc.)
-Black 20 awg wire (24ft)
-Six different colored 20 awg wires (12ft each)
-Crimp on bolt terminal (used for chassis ground cable)
-Solder (preferably silver solder, or flux core)
-Electrical tape
-"Expando" sleeving or you can use that convoluted split tubing if you like (12ft)
-6 Pin Male and Female connectors (Radio Shack)
-2 Pin Male and Female connectors (Radio Shack)
-Zipties (owning an SRT-4 you should already have a good supply of these)
Tools:
-Phillips head screwdriver
-Flat head screwdriver
-Heat gun for shrink wrap (a lighter will suffice)
-Soldering Pencil/Gun/Iron
-Razor blade or X-acto knife
-Crimping tool
Building the Bezel Sub-Harness:
Below is a diagram of how I have laid out the wiring:
When buying wire for this harness, try to buy as many different colors as you can get. This will make things easier when it comes to hook up the wires to the PCM. Fortunately we have a electronics surplus house over by me called Skycraft which buys leftover supplies from Lockheed Martin, Pratt & Whitney, etc. which happened to carry as many wire colors as I could imagine. So you will notice my wiring harness is very similar color wise to the Mopar harness. All the wires are 20awg.
So the first step to building this wiring harness is making a small sub-harness for the Turbo Toys bezel. You'll need about 4-6" of wire for each connection. The picture below shows some generic receptacle sockets I also found at Skycraft. These are probably the hardest part to find. The ones I used were slightly big, so I used a crimping tool to close the opening a little.
Below you can see I have soldered the receptacles to the sub-harness wires.
Lastly, before making any connectioned we want to shield as much of the receptacle and wire as we can with shrink wrap. Once you start inserting these onto the pins in the back of the bezel you will see why. We will repeat these steps for each wire we hook to the turbo toys bezel.
The picture below shows the connections to the HOM switch. As you can see, one of the pins is not used. Also note how close the pins are. Without the heat shrink you risk the chance of shorting the wires together.
If you look at the picture above, you notice to the lower left there is a locating notch where the factory Mopar connector would normally plug in. It is not so important for the HOM switch because you can mix the wires up and it will still work. However when we wire the DAB switch it will be important to note the wire order in relation to this locating notch.
Unfortunately I didn't manage to get a good picture of the DAB switch straight on. But above is a side view. The connector locating notch is on the bottom, and from top to bottom the wire order is this: DAB output voltage, 5v supply, ground, DAB illumination.
Once you have run your wires to the HOM and DAB switch, you can now add a 6 pin connector of your choice. I chose some easily available Radio Shack connectors:
When you're done you should have a turbo toys sub-harness that looks like this:
If you want to make it "pretty" you can add some sleeving and shrink wrap to bundle the wires together before the connector.
We will use the rest of the 12ft of wiring to create the rest of the harness. I will talk about that next time I update, but for now here is a picture:
MAKING CONNECTIONS TO THE PCM
Ahh the PCM connections. Did you buy the NGC PCM connector pins from S&P Development? You'll definitely need those no matter what.
These are gold plated pins made specifically to fit in the PCM connectors. If you look back at my diagram of the wiring, you will need to crimp PCM connector pins on each of the following wires:
1) DAB Output Voltage (Gray)
2) HOM Signal (White)
3) HOM LED (Red)
The black ground wires can be grounded anywhere to the chassis of the car, so just crimp on a ground lug and bolt it to a metal part on the body.
The purple wire on the diagram, "5V for DAB", will need to be soldered onto another wire coming out of the PCM connector.
Basically you are going to follow the last part of this tutorial when making the connections to the PCM.
http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f75/how-install-stage-2-w-toys-204082/
On the Black PCM connector:
You will need to find a Violet wire with a White tracer line. You need to solder the "5V for DAB" to this wire. Make sure you wrap this connection with electrical tape once soldered.
On the White PCM connector:
You will need to follow the Stage 2 tutorial I posted to open up the connector. You are going to insert the "HOM LED" (Red) wire into cavity #2. You are going to insert the "HOM Signal" (White) wire into cavity #14.
On the Orange PCM connector:
Again, follow the Stage 2 tutorial. You are going to insert the "DAB Output Voltage" (Gray) wire into cavity #22.
MORE TO COME SOON
1 - 20 of 44 Posts
Thanks for the write-up!
For my TT harness, I used small 0,062 plastic connectors with the corresponding female receptacles in order to make the connection to the bezel. They fit perfectly, there's no need to add shrink tubing on the receptacles, and IMO it gives a cleaner look. :thumbsup:
![]()
For my TT harness, I used small 0,062 plastic connectors with the corresponding female receptacles in order to make the connection to the bezel. They fit perfectly, there's no need to add shrink tubing on the receptacles, and IMO it gives a cleaner look. :thumbsup:
That's what I did and its been working for the last 10 months. The only issue I have is that when turning the switch to OFF, it takes 3 seconds until the power is cut. That's not a big problem for me though.
Here is a picture of the modification (look at the little blue wire on the left upper part of the board):
1 - 20 of 44 Posts
