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crack open beer:



1) Raise the vehicle and place jack stands under the vehicle. You can do either the front or the back first, but you need to have both sides off of the ground.


2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
3) Remove the screw securing the ground strap to the rear of the strut.
4) remove the screw securing the ABS wheel speed sensor to the rear of the strut.


5) Remove the two bolts attaching the strut to the steering knuckle. MOD EDIT: After removing nuts (18MM), bang the bolts out (or in when reinstalling). Do not twist them in or out)


6) Open the hood.
7) Remove the three nuts attaching the upper mount of the strut assembly to the vehicle’s strut tower.


8) Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle.
9) Position the strut assembly in the strut coil spring compressor and compress the spring. MOD EDIT: (Spring compressor not needed for the rears if air tools are used, or if a strong helper pushes down on the spring)



10) Stick a 10mm socket onto the top of the strut with a 1/4" extension in it. Then slide a 13/16" spark plug socket(with the rubber removed)over the 1/4" extension. Hold the extension in place and slide a cresent wrench onto the plug socket and loosen the nut with the cresent wrench.




11) Disassemble the strut and coil.
12) compress the new spring and reassemble the strut/coil in opposite order.
13) Install the strut assembly into the strut tower, aligning the three studs on the strut upper mount with the holes in strut tower. Install the three
mounting nuts on the studs. Tighten the three nuts to a torque of 34 N·m (300 in. lbs.).
14) Position the lower end of the strut assembly in line with the upper end of the steering knuckle and align the mounting holes. Install the two
attaching bolts. The bolts should be installed with so that the nuts face towards the front of the vehicle once installed. Install the nuts. Holding the bolts in place tighten the nuts to a torque of 53 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) plus an additional 90° turn after the specified torque is met.
15) Attach the ABS wheel speed sensor to the rear of the strut.13 N·m (120 in. lbs.).
16) Attach the ground strap to the rear of the strut(120 in. lbs.).
17) Install the tire and wheel assembly.(100 ft. lbs.).
18) Crack open another beer, then move onto the other side.




On to the rears:


1) Raise the vehicle. Place jack stands under the vehicle. Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
2) Remove the screw securing the ABS wheel speed sensor bracket to the rear of thestrut assembly.
3) Remove the nut from the end of the rear stabilizer bar link bolt. Pull the bolt out through the top of the link and remove the link.




4) Remove the two guide pin bolts securing the rear disc brake caliper to the steering knuckle.
5) Remove the disc brake caliper from the knuckle and brake rotor. Hang the caliper out of the way using a wire hanger or cord. Do not support the caliper by letting it hang by the hydraulic hose.




6) Remove the two nuts and bolts attaching the strut to the rear knuckle MOD EDIT: After removing nuts (18MM), bang the bolts out (or in when reinstalling). Do not twist them in or out)
7) Open the deck lid. Remove the carpet from the top of the strut tower.
8) Loosen, but do not completely remove the 3 nuts securing the strut assembly to the strut tower. Grasp the strut assembly to keep it from moving, then remove the 3 mounting nuts at the strut tower.


9) Remove the strut assembly from the knuckle by sliding it away from the knuckle, lowering it between the two lateral arms, then tipping the top outward and removing it out through the well opening.
10) Dissasemble the strut in the same way as discribed above.
11) Assemble the strut in the same way as discribed above with the new spring. (MOD EDIT: Placing one bolt through the strut/knuckle first will make the reinstall easier than installing the 3 NUTS at the top first)
12) To place the strut assembly into mounting position, start the lower end of the strut over the top of the knuckle and down the back between the two lateral arms. Next, lift the top of the strut assembly up into the strut tower aligning the studs on top of the upper mount with the three mounting holes in the strut tower. While holding the strut assembly in place, install the three mounting nuts on the upper mount studs inside the luggage compartment.
13) Tighten the 3 mounting nuts to a torque of 34 N·m (300 in. lbs).
14) Install the carpeting back on top of the rear strut tower.
15) Reinstall the stabilizer bar link. I was recommended to use shorter endlinks. These are Prothanes

16) Install the screw securing the ABS wheel speed sensor bracket to the rear of the strut assembly 13 N·m (120 in. lbs.).
17) Install the rear brake caliper.
18) Install the tire and wheel assembly on vehicle. Tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half specification. Repeat the tightening sequence, this time, to full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).
19) Lower the vehicle to ground level.
20) Tighten the stabilizer bar link nut to a torque of 23 N·m (200 in. lbs.).
 

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Lethal_Whisper said:
Fcuk that.....i'll pay someone....the last time i compressed a spring with like that this happened....







NEVER AGAIN!
that's sick dude. i did something like that but i slammed my hand in my door on accident... hurt like a bitch and the doctor said i was lucky i didn't lose the tip of my finger.
 

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Yeah that shit hurt like hell after i got feeling back...it went dumb for like 30 seconds after it popped me. I shattered the tip of my finger and broke the last section of bone. The doc had to take off my nail and remove bone and stitch the damn nail back on. Gross. The pics are after i got back from the emergency room. When it happened it looked pretty much the same except the last segment of my finger was cocked about 45 degrees to the left. At least i got some good pills out of the whole ordeal.
 

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Lethal_Whisper said:
Yeah that shit hurt like hell after i got feeling back...it went dumb for like 30 seconds after it popped me. I shattered the tip of my finger and broke the last section of bone. The doc had to take off my nail and remove bone and stitch the damn nail back on. Gross. The pics are after i got back from the emergency room. When it happened it looked pretty much the same except the last segment of my finger was cocked about 45 degrees to the left. At least i got some good pills out of the whole ordeal.

sounds a little worse then mine... i just slammed mine in the door to the point where it latched shut. then i just looked at my finger all fucked up for like 20 seconds and then the pain kicked in. it hurt like a sumbitch for hours and i could feel my pulse thru it and all. then i decided to go to the doctor the next day and he decided to drain all of the blood out of it. the blood ended up swelling my finger up probably 2 X's the normal diameter so when he relieved the pressure it was AMAZING. now my nail grows back all messed up and retarded looking
 

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uncommon said:
sounds a little worse then mine... i just slammed mine in the door to the point where it latched shut. then i just looked at my finger all fucked up for like 20 seconds and then the pain kicked in. it hurt like a sumbitch for hours and i could feel my pulse thru it and all. then i decided to go to the doctor the next day and he decided to drain all of the blood out of it. the blood ended up swelling my finger up probably 2 X's the normal diameter so when he relieved the pressure it was AMAZING. now my nail grows back all messed up and retarded looking
Lmao...i deffinently know what you mean there. Sorry for not meaningly stealing for thread for a few minutes hi n mity......nice how to though :hi:
 

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Uhm, ok, I thought this write up was pretty good also, and was going to install my new sportlines this weekend, but after seeing the pics of a messed up finger, uhm, no, wait, on second though, any body know about how much this should cost to HAVE this done??? lol
 

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damn.. glad i didnt see that pic before i did mine haha, but if you do it your self just be careful with the compressors and make sure to do them in equal turns to compres the spring
 

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uncommon said:
Lethal_Whisper said:
Fcuk that.....i'll pay someone....the last time i compressed a spring with like that this happened....







NEVER AGAIN!
that's sick dude. i did something like that but i slammed my hand in my door on accident... hurt like a bitch and the doctor said i was lucky i didn't lose the tip of my finger.
I did that shit to my thumb with a hammer and I hit that bitch as hard as I could. It swelled up 3 times the size and the nail fell off and took almost 3 months to come back to normal that sucks!
later
John
 

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Air tools work wonders when removing the stock springs from the strut...Also i don't recall taking off any calipers. (Mopar stage one springs)
 

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srt4ipp said:
what else or different would i need to know installing springs on my ACR?
you got my number if you got any questions. There's another how to that's stickied on how to do this. When I did mine I followed that how-to. One thing to remember is that the clevis bolts are ribbed. Don't twist those bolts. tap them out with a hammer/rubber mallet and do the same when reinstalling:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
flaguy said:
Comment edited by moderator

:youratool

all of your post are always a bunch of these::gay:

Or talkin shit to other people. Grow up. If it helps someone, then great. If it doesn't, then write up a better how-to, rather then showing your 4th grade intellect.

Go post whore other sites
 

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think thats bad...I had a semi truck air brake rip off my WHOLE thumbnail...now THAT hurt like a mother fucker...
 

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acancelledczech said:
If i buy coilovers then my fingers will be safe??? :lol:
with my struts i tryed beeting my old record on how far i could launch the nut and top of the strut across the garage, new record is 5 feet off hte back wall. completly safe, just make sure your not facing the strut strait up when you take it apart. lay it down against somthing and lossin it slowly. the rears idnt blow apart only the fronts did.
 
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