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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is for a cheap affective way to keep your intercooler cold for around $25.

You are going to need:
(1) Coolant Resevoir(1.5 qt.)
(1) "T" connector
(1) Reducer fitting
(1) Bag zipties
(1) Windshield sprayer pump
15 ft. Wire(14g or better)
(1) Toggle or push button switch
(1 Set) Universal windsheild wiper sprayer nozels
6 ft. Vaccum hosing
Electrical tape
Scissors
Electric Drill(and bit)

1) Cut the bottom tab off the resevoir(one underneath the cap).
2)Find a mounting place for the resevoir, using the mounting bracket. I ziptied mine onto my cold air intake, it's stable and looks resonable. Try not to mount it too far away from the pump because the system will start to become inefficient with all the excess hosing...

3)Attach the clear hosing that came with the resevoir, to the drain hole you cut in step one. Be sure to ziptie it on to prevent any leaks...Guesstimate about 6" of the hosing(that's all you'll need) and cut it. So now you have a clear six inch hose hanging from your resevoir.
4)Take your 6 feet of vaccum hosing, measure 3 inches and cut it. Then, take your plastic reducer fitting and stuff it into the end of the vaccum hosing. Take the other end(that's not connected to the resevoir) of the clear hosing, and slid it ontop of the vaccum hosing with the reducer fitting(be sure to ziptie this connection) You will only be able to slid about 1/2 inch over the vacuum hosing; which is what you want...
5)Take your washer pump out, and connect the other end of the 3" hose to the larger opening on the pump. Ziptie the connection to prevent leaks.
6)Measure about 2 feet of hosing from the remainding vaccum line, and cut. Connect one end to the smaller fitting on the washer pump, ziptie the connection.
7)Slide the 2feet of hose, that's now hanging off the pump, and slide it through the hole in the driver's frame rail(right behind the headlight) Yes this can be done without taking off bumper:readclose , at no point in time did I remove my bumper, it's just a little more tricky. Slide the hose until you get it resting ontop of your FMIC.
8) Reach in through the radiator vent and pull the hose out so it's in front of the bumper. Attach the "T" fitting and ziptie.
9) Now take your remaining hose and cut it in half. Connect each piece to the other ends of the "T" fitting. Now you should have a giant T in vaccuum lines...
10)Slide the left side of the hosing, back over the intercooler and then back out of the bumper on the leftside...Basically, have the left hose come out right over the plastic mesh covering the intercooler. And the same for the right side...So now the "T" fitting should be right ontop of the intercooler, and you should be able to see it down through the hood latch hole. REFER TO PIC

11)Now take a drill bit that is slightly larger than the holes that the stupid stealership drilled into the underneath section of the bumper...and drill them out so they are slightly bigger(to accomidate the nozels).
12)Once they are bigger, take your nozels and slowly/carefully screw them into the hole until they are as far as they can go and they are facing the intercooler.

13)Take the vaccuum hosing and(this works best with peopel with small hands) and find a way to connect them to the nozels. You might not be able to ziptie them because of the hard to reach area...but you can damn sure try:thumbsup:
14) Now push all the hosing up, so it sits on the intercooler so it doesn't look all cheap/cheasy:gay:
15) Next, take your wire, and cut out a piece around 5-7feet long(varies on where you want to mount your switch) I mounted mine on the dash next to the a/c vent. Then cut a smaller piece(around 7-10" long). Connect the small piece to the negative terminal on the pump and connect the larger piece to the positive terminal on the pump...
16) Feed the long piece of wire through the engine bay(in a way so it doesn't look:gay: ) and feed it through that small hole in the firewall near the clutch fluid resevoir. Go in the cabin and pull the wire out so it's sitting down near the peddles.
17) Now, connect the small piece of wire to the negative ground that is sitting on the framerail near the driver side headlight. You'll probably need to socket it out.

Once you have all the wiring set, ziptie the pump to the radiator bracket, so it's no moving around alot. You can also mount the pump in that hole behind the driver's side headlight...
18) Drill a hole in the dash or wherever you want the switch to go. Pull the wire that is comming from the pump, through the hole you just drilled. Connect it to the "ON" tab on the switch. Take the remaing wire and connect one end to the "OFF" tab of the switch. Push the wires through the hole.

19) Push the switch in the hole, and screw on the circular tab so it stays on...You can connect the other end of the wire to a multiple number of power sources. I spliced mine off of a fuse in the fusebox. You can also use the positive terminal on the battery, but be sure you have good, solid connections and a thick enough gauge of wire.

20) Now, go through and make sure all the ugly wiring, hosing is ziptied and safely out of the way...
21) Get some water(about 2 cups) and fill up the resevoir...Have a friend flip the in cabin switch so you can see where the water is spraying out...Adjust the nozels so they spray in the optimum place. Note: If you have the stock fmic, you will have to mount the nozels in a differenct location because they won't be able to spray on the stocker from this location...


Everything should be running at this point in time...The nozels(depending on if you got ones that were made right) shouldn't leak at all. If they do leak it will only leak what is in the vaccum hosing(It WONT leak out the whole tank). There are many things you can put in the tank...Water with ice cubes, cold water, hot water, water and a small amount of dry ice(just be careful and leave the lid of the resevoir open so it doesn't explode:eeeek: ) PM me for any problems or issues that you may have in the insall....Also make sure the clear hose that's connected to the resevoir is not pinched...you'll have to mess around with it for a while until it sits in a good way...

Edit> Just so you know, the resevoir in my picture is black only because I painted it, when looking for the resevoir you will be looking for a whiteish container...I just thought I would paint mine with a heat blocking type spraypaint.
 

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Got any datalogs with it on / off. I wonder what the difference in intake temps are, if any.
 

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Can you give me sizes and such that you used, like on the reducer, hoses, t's, etc.

Thanks, and a great write up, I was looking to do this before Nats, but couldn't find a "solid" how to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Honestly, hosing size...I'm not too sure of BUT, if you look under the hood, and where those black hoses connect to your stock wind shield wiper nozels...that's the size. Sorry for the unsure answer, If I was to guess it would most likely be around a 1/8 area...The "T" needs to be the same size as a standard windshield wiper nozel(once again the only answer I have is a comparison, sorry!) And the reducer fitting(where it's larger on one side and smaller on the other)...one side(that's going to be inserted into the black vaccum hosing) needs to be slightly larger than a windshield wiper nozel fitting, and the other end can be pretty much any size(just not larger).
 

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endlessheart666 said:
Honestly, hosing size...I'm not too sure of BUT, if you look under the hood, and where those black hoses connect to your stock wind shield wiper nozels...that's the size. Sorry for the unsure answer, If I was to guess it would most likely be around a 1/8 area...The "T" needs to be the same size as a standard windshield wiper nozel(once again the only answer I have is a comparison, sorry!) And the reducer fitting(where it's larger on one side and smaller on the other)...one side(that's going to be inserted into the black vaccum hosing) needs to be slightly larger than a windshield wiper nozel fitting, and the other end can be pretty much any size(just not larger).
That works for me, thanks. Thats all I needed, comparison is just as good as sizes.:thumbsup:

Have you noticed a difference with and without it on while driving?
 

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endlessheart666 said:
Nothing yet, when it gets colder outside I'll do some runs.
Why would it need to be cold outside. This mod will probably work the best when its hotter outside. By intake temps, I meant after the turbo. Most dataloggers can read the sensor after the turbo. Not sure I would assume the sensor is in the intake manifold. I wouldn't bother with this mod until I see some proof of timing advance or lower intake temps. Either way nice write-up, and I am sure there are benefits to spraying the intercooler, i.e. stage II with toys.
 

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Madrex said:
endlessheart666 said:
Nothing yet, when it gets colder outside I'll do some runs.
Why would it need to be cold outside. This mod will probably work the best when its hotter outside. By intake temps, I meant after the turbo. Most dataloggers can read the sensor after the turbo. Not sure I would assume the sensor is in the intake manifold. I wouldn't bother with this mod until I see some proof of timing advance or lower intake temps. Either way nice write-up, and I am sure there are benefits to spraying the intercooler, i.e. stage II with toys.
I am just thinking it will benifit when its 100 degree's outside and you are doing 30-45 mins of driving, you could turn it on and cool down the intercooler and allow cooler air into the motor.

Just my opinion
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well honestly, I don't like going wot in my car when it's 100 degrees outside. What I meant was maybe one time at night I'll make a run. But, I will say this:
During the daytime it makes it feel like it's running at night, and during the nightime it makes it feel awesome. The only observations I've done so far are on the a/f's. I made two runs, one w/o sprayer and one with. The one without my a/f was 11.9-11.3 and the one with was 11.6-11.1
 

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great job on the writeup man. I will probably try to do this when i get my SRT...I might make a writeup based on yours with some higher quality pictures (giving you credit of course)...but I dunno, we'll see.

do you think it would be possible to get a bigger coolant resevoir? I think that it would be nice to have a slightly larger res. to be able to put a pretty good amount of ice in with the water, so as to keep the water cooler for longer periods of time (track days)

again, thanks for the writeup!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Annihilator said:
great job on the writeup man. I will probably try to do this when i get my SRT...I might make a writeup based on yours with some higher quality pictures (giving you credit of course)...but I dunno, we'll see.

do you think it would be possible to get a bigger coolant resevoir? I think that it would be nice to have a slightly larger res. to be able to put a pretty good amount of ice in with the water, so as to keep the water cooler for longer periods of time (track days)

again, thanks for the writeup!
Yeah sorry about the pics, I have a walmart special digetal camera....Orileys sells two different sizes resevoirs and both can be easily mounted under the hood. I went with the 1.5qt. bottle but I think they sell a 3qt. bottle(or maybe it's 2.5qt, but either way significantly larger). A larger bottle would be good because I've gone threw pretty much the whole amount in a full 3rd gear pull...
 

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endlessheart666 said:
Annihilator said:
great job on the writeup man. I will probably try to do this when i get my SRT...I might make a writeup based on yours with some higher quality pictures (giving you credit of course)...but I dunno, we'll see.

do you think it would be possible to get a bigger coolant resevoir? I think that it would be nice to have a slightly larger res. to be able to put a pretty good amount of ice in with the water, so as to keep the water cooler for longer periods of time (track days)

again, thanks for the writeup!
Yeah sorry about the pics, I have a walmart special digetal camera....Orileys sells two different sizes resevoirs and both can be easily mounted under the hood. I went with the 1.5qt. bottle but I think they sell a 3qt. bottle(or maybe it's 2.5qt, but either way significantly larger). A larger bottle would be good because I've gone threw pretty much the whole amount in a full 3rd gear pull...
wow, thanks for that bit of info, I'll definitely shoot for the bigger res...I didn't realize it would go through the water THAT fast :jester:

have you made any observations on how hot the water gets in the engine bay? Possibly if it gets too hot in there, put some reflectix thermal tape around the bottle? Just throwing some ideas out there to build on this design... :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So far there has been no found "overspray" if you want to call it that, in the engine bay. The actual water in the container doesn't seem to be getting that hot from normal driving conditions but raping it with some sort of insulator may help. The only thing with that I would be worried about is, overtime(if the water sat long enough) the water would become hot and the insulation would keep it hot, dono just a thought. But something like ice, or to the extreme(yet untested) dry ice, would definitely keep the water temps. down before a run.

Nelson, the guy that works at Orileys(that originally sketched and assembled this idea) has timeslips to prove that it does work(at least on the stock i/c) He was running 9.1's, 9.0's, in the 1/8 before the sprayer, BUT after using the sprayers(not exactly sure at what point in time during the run) he was able to pull of 8.8's, 8.7's. He would also say that the boost(on the stock i/c) would stay at a higher level....longer. So, in my perspective...this cheap mod works...I mean...they use it stock on the STI for their top mount, so why not use it for the srt's stock fmic or an upgraded one...?
 

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endlessheart666 said:
So far there has been no found "overspray" if you want to call it that, in the engine bay. The actual water in the container doesn't seem to be getting that hot from normal driving conditions but raping it with some sort of insulator may help. The only thing with that I would be worried about is, overtime(if the water sat long enough) the water would become hot and the insulation would keep it hot, dono just a thought. But something like ice, or to the extreme(yet untested) dry ice, would definitely keep the water temps. down before a run.

Nelson, the guy that works at Orileys(that originally sketched and assembled this idea) has timeslips to prove that it does work(at least on the stock i/c) He was running 9.1's, 9.0's, in the 1/8 before the sprayer, BUT after using the sprayers(not exactly sure at what point in time during the run) he was able to pull of 8.8's, 8.7's. He would also say that the boost(on the stock i/c) would stay at a higher level....longer. So, in my perspective...this cheap mod works...I mean...they use it stock on the STI for their top mount, so why not use it for the srt's stock fmic or an upgraded one...?
That's exactly my thinking about the STi...if they see gains from it, then why can't we? Thanks a ton for the info...those numbers are very encouraging, so I'll definitely be doing this mod in the next couple weeks (after I get the car of course lol)
 
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