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MODERATOR EDIT: Additional Turbo Toys How-To located here:

MOPAR Stage 2 with toys install

Self installed after a long 3-½ month wait. Can be installed on one day with ‘standard’ tools. Install time will vary from 3-6 hours based

on mechanical ability and your break schedule. :) Also note that this install and although it worked for me, it may not for you. Take this

as guidance and not explicit instructions.

Tools needed:

-Socket set with 10mm, 11mm, 12mm, 1/2”
-Box wrenches, 10mm, 12mm, and 1 ½” (this will make more sense later)
-#2 philips screwdriver
-Long flat head screwdriver, medium flat head, and a tiny one (I’m not sure the size)
-#15 and #25 torx screwdriver
-Needle nose pliers
-Slip-jaw pliers
-Wire strippers
-Masking tape
-Electrical tape
-Soldering pencil and solder
-Pin-vise and Drill and 1/16”, 5/16”, 3/32” drill bits
-Compressed air or a blowgun and compressor
-Utility knife or better yet, an X-acto knife

First thing to do is to make sure you have all the tools before had and read all of the instructions before you begin this. Also make sure

the car is cold and not up to temp.

Now we can start the install. First things first, we need to depressurize the fuel system. Find the fuse and relay box located under the

hood, just in front of the driver’s side strut tower.

Open the fuse box and find circuit 31 labeled “fuel pump relay” and pull it out.

With the relay out, the fuel pump will not get power. Start your car and let it run until it dies. Try and start it again and then again.

This will make sure that the fuel pressure is out of the system. Please note that there is still fuel in the rail and fuel line, just no


Next, disconnect the negative battery terminal and move it out of the way.

Now we can start installing the S2 hardware. But we need access to the old parts so the airbox has to come out. You’ll need to use a Philips

screwdriver to unfasten the solenoid block, and a flat head screwdriver to loosen the clamps holding the cold air pipe to the turbo and

airbox assembly. Use a 10mm socket to remove the bolts holding the airbox in place. Be sure to disconnect the push tabs holding the wiring

harness to the airbox.

With the airbox and cold pipe out you should have access to the PCM, wastegate actuator and TIP sensor.

To get the PCM out, first remove the three connectors by lifting the red tabs found on each one and then pulling the connectors off the PCM.

Move them out of the way.

There should be three 10mm bolts holding the PCM bracket to the chassis. Two at the bottom and one near the fender well. With those removed,

you can take out the PCM and it’s bracket.

Use a 10mm socket to free the PCM from the bracket. Take the S2 PCM and mount it to the bracket. Before reinstalling it in the car, we need

to use the block-off connector supplied in the S2 kit to protect the 4th connector (green) on the PCM. This is not used and was not pinned-

out on the stock PCM.

Make sure that the wiring retainer tab is pushed in the connector. It’s a red tab on the connector side of the block off.

Push the block off down and then the red tab on the outside to lock it in place. Then re-install the assembly into the car. Reconnect all

the PCM connections if you are not installing toys. If you are doing a S2 install with toys, do not reattach the PCM connectors just

yet. We’ll have to modify the harness later in the install.

Now we can deal with the wastegate actuator. To gain access to it, we need to remove the 5 copper bolts holding the heat shield in place.

Use a 10mm socket or 10mm wrench to remove the bolts. One on the top above the turbo, one near the head on the driver’s side, one in the

middle near the head, one the passenger side near the head, and the last one near the radiator coolant fill bottle. Once those are out, you

will have clear access to the turbo manifold and wastegate. You may need to get creative to gain leverage in tight spaces. For the top bolt,

I used a 10mm box wrench and then a 1 ½” box over the end of it to make a larger lever for more leverage.

It’s important to ensure the socket or wrench you use is firmly seated around the entire bolt. I learned this the hard way when I striped

the last bolt head by the radiator coolant bottle. You can still get the job done but it’s not as easy to do.

Now that you have the heat shield off, (or partly off as in my case LOL) you will have access to the two bolts holding the wastegate to the

turbo and a cotter pin holding the wastegate arm in place. Use a needle nose pliers to get the pin out and set it aside as you will need it

for the new WGA. Remove the two bolts holding the WGA to the turbo and remove. You can see there is really no visible difference in the S2

WGA and the stock one with the exception of the adjustable arm.

Before installing the S2 WGA, you will need to do an initial tension setup on it. To do this, mark a scribe line, at the base, on the arm of

the actuator with no tension on it. The stocker will have these markings as well.

Then adjust the length of the arm by loosening the bolt and rotating the eyelet until it is about 2 threads from where they start on the

arm. (At least that’s what it ended up being for me) Then tighten the nut down to hold it in place. Install the new WGA by putting the

eyelet over the wastegate arm and secure with the old cotter pin and tighten ONE bolt to the turbo housing. Check the scribe line and make

sure it is ~4mm away from the actuator. (see picture below for scribe line) If not, loosen or tighten the assembly accordingly to get to the

initial 4mm setup. Then reinstall the bolts on the heat shield. WGA done!


3,692 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Now it’s onto the TIP sensor. It’s located behind the driver’s side headlight attached by two push rivets to the fender wall.

Lift red tab on the TIP sensor’s connector and gently pull connector off. Using a small flat head screwdriver, pry out the center of the
push rivets to loosen them. Disconnect the white vacuum line on the bottom of the sensor and remove the assembly from the fender well.
Remove the sensor by gently prying the tab located on the front bottom of the bracket and pull the sensor from the bracket.

The new TIP sensor’s retaining tab was tough to get over the bracket so I coaxed it in place with a flat head screwdriver.

Reinstall bracket onto the fender well making sure to reconnect the vacuum line, TIP sensor connector and pushpins. Now it’s onto the fuel
Before doing anything to the fuel system, make sure that you have depressurized the line as described earlier in the how to. Remove the
injector cover from the engine. Important!! Blow out the intake runners around the injectors with either canned air or from a
compressor. If you don’t, your risk letting debris into the cylinder chamber. Once this is done, find the fuel rail supply connection.

Place a rag around the base of the connection and down by the fuel rail. Don’t use any tools for this procedure, as these parts are all
plastic. Push in on the bottom of the retainer and pull up on the fuel supply line. Make sure to catch all gas that comes out and be
careful. Once the line has stopped leaking, leave the rag where it is and move to the driver’s side injector. Place a rag or rags around all
of the bases of the injectors. This would be a good double check for any loose sand or dirt that may be around the injector base. Remove the
injector’s wiring harness’ by lifting the red tabs and then gently pulling up on the harness.

With all of the harnesses off, we need to remove the injector retaining clips found on the bottom of the fuel rail. To get these off, gently
pry them off with a flat head screwdriver if you can’t pull them off by hand. Be careful!

With all of the retaining clips out, we need to remove the injector cover’s pawns. They are the black bolts holding the fuel rail to the
head. (12mm if I remember right). With those removed, go to the injector on the far right. SLOWLY lift the fuel rail up on the right side
only and let the remaining fuel out. Again be sure to have the rags in place to catch any leaking gas. Once the gas stops coming out, move
on to the other injectors and repeat the process. Then remove the fuel rail and injectors. Even though I thought I had blown out the intake
manifold ‘good’, I still missed some debris and had to clean up with a vacuum.

Now coat both O-rings on each of the S2 injectors with fresh oil and reinstall them on the fuel rail. Then install it onto the intake
manifold. Tighten the pawns down and make sure that all injectors are firmly in place and that all the connectors are facing towards the
valve cover. Reattach the injector harnesses and press the red tabs down.

Reconnect the fuel supply and make sure it is firmly attached and locked in place. Now it’s onto the MAP sensor. It is located on the intake
manifold and is easily accessible.
The MAP sensor can be removed by releasing the red tab on the wiring harness and pulling it off the MAP sensor. Then, using a #15 torx
screwdriver, remove the two screws holding it in place.

Pull the old MAP sensor off.

Place some oil on the o-ring on the S2 MAP sensor and install. Reattach the connector and press in the red tab. The main hardware portion of
the install is done. Now if you have toys, there’s more to do. If not, reinstall the airbox and cold air pipe. Reconnect the negative
battery terminal.
Now would also be a good time to check your spark plugs. MOPAR recommends that the gap be set to .035-.040 for Stage 2.

I have the toys yet to install so here we go…
Start off with the wiring harness and lay it out so you can clearly identify the various ends. Layout on the ground is the best visual.

Now you need to route the harness through some tight spaces so tape up the wiring for the bezel for easier navigation.

Ok, we need to get this underneath the wiper shroud but the wipers have to come off first. To do this, use a flat head screwdriver to pop
the water seal off to expose the ½” nut. Remove the nut with a ratchet and gently lift up on the wiper assembly to remove it. Repeat for the
other wiper.

Next, take a #25 torx screwdriver and remove the screws holding the shroud in place. Also, you need to remove the weather stripping on the
engine side of the shroud.

3,692 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
With that done, you can remove the shroud and set it aside. Look at all that room on the passenger side…. One might be able to hide

something in there. :)

Route the wiring for the bezel that you taped up and go to the driver’s side near the hood hinge. There is a foam seal in between the fender

and the frame by the driver’s doorjamb.

Pull the harness through, and above the top door hinge, about 4-4 ½ feet. Now we have to route this through a rubber wiring plug in the


Pull the plug out and cut the center ring out. I cut through the rib that was there, as I wanted a tight seal.

Now push this over the wiring loom about 4 feet. This will be about 6” past the blue/white wire.

There is a square rubber seal above the hood release in the footwell. Pull an edge down and feel for the loom to pull it through.

Now remove the lower steering wheel cover with a Philips screwdriver. We will end up routing this end of the wiring harness to the center

console. First, we need to get the console out. Pry the vents off the center console and you will gain access to two screws. Use your

Philips screwdriver to remove them. Pull off the HVAC knobs as well.

Now at the bottom of the center console, where the defrost button and power outlet are, you will see two screws. Take them out with a

Philips screwdriver.

Go back to the wiring harness and pull it through the center console. Pull it away from the console, and disconnect the power to both the

defrost switch and power outlet.

Now find the toys bezel.

Find the connectors for the bezel supplied in your S2 kit. There should be a gray, black, and white connector. The gray connector is for the

water sprayer, the black connector is for the Dial-a-boost connector, and the white connector is for the HOM switch.

Now take the gray connector and look at the end with the yellow tab. You will see that it is numbered. Find the blue, red/white, and

black wires. There will be more than one black wire, just pick one as they are all ground. Put the blue wire in the #5 slot, the red/white

in #4, and the black wire in #3 until you hear them click. Then press in the yellow ends to lock the wires in place.


3,692 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Now find the black connector for the Dial-a-boost selector. Find the gray, purple, black, and short orange wires. Put the short

orange wire in slot #4, the black in #3, purple in #2, and the gray wire in #1 until they click. Then press in the yellow ends to lock the

wires in place.

Find the white connector for the HOM switch and the white and black wires. Put the black wire in slot #3 and the white wire in #2

until they click. Then press in the yellow ends to lock the wires in place.

Ok now we need to tap into the HVAC illumination signal for the Dial-a-boost switch. First pull the center air duct out. It’s behind where

the vents were. Then find the long orange wire and feed it back into the bezel and up to the HVAC controls. On the left side, above the fan

speed selector, you will see a connector. Slide the red tab back and pull the connector off the HVAC bezel. Find the orange wire in the

connector and strip ¼”- 3/8” of insulation away. Take the long orange wire from the toy’s harness and splice it into this orange wire,

solder in place, then use electrical tape to protect it. Reconnect it to the HVAC bezel.

Now there should be four wires left. These are indicator lights for the sprayer and HOM. Find the male, two-wire connector and the blue LED

that came with the S2 kit. Now find the red/white and yellow/black wires. Put the red/white wire into the connector slot labeled ‘A’ and the

yellow/black wire into the connector slot labeled ‘B’. Find the female. Two wire connector and the red LED that came with the S2 kit. There

should be two wires left, a red/white wire and a yellow/red wire. Put the red/white wire into the slot labeled ‘A’ and the yellow/red wire

into the slot labeled ‘B’. Be sure that you have pushed the wires until they click into the connectors and put the gray retaining clip in


Now find an appropriate location for your indicator lights. They can be on the silver bezel, in the vents (may require a splice and

additional wire) or on the HVAC console. This is where I choose to put mine. Drill a 5/16” pilot hole for each LED holder. Route the leads

to where you need them, pull them through the pilot hole, place the LED holder over the LED until it locks and then push the assembly into

place. I had to do some additional drilling to get the LEDs where I wanted them. Also, you can see where I secured the leads in the back.

Now back to the toys bezel. Hook up the intercooler sprayer switch, dial-a-boost switch, and HOM switch. Reconnect the defrost switch

connector and the power supply connector. Screw it in place on the center console. Put the HVAC shroud back on, screw in place, replace the

vents, and push in the LED assemblies if you haven’t done so already. Done with the center console!

Secure the loose wiring loom under the dash using zip ties. I decided to attach it to the tubing underneath the steering assembly.

Find the blue/white wire on the loom. It should be near the square rubber flap we brought the harness into the cabin through. We’ll need to

get it to the interior fuse block. Now we have to splice it in the ignition power lead. It’s the blue/white wire in the fuse block. Inside

the driver’s side door jam, there is an access panel to a fuse center. Remove the door and the two screws holding the block in place.

With the fuse block out, find the blue/white wire in the #31 slot.

As with the orange wire splice in the HVAC harness, strip ~1/4” –3/8” from the wire.

Splice in the blue/white wire from the toys wiring harness, solder in place, and tape for protection.

Reinstall the fuse block and close the access door. Pull any excess loom out of the doorjamb. Slide the rubber seal until it is firmly in

place against the cabin. Pull the wiring loom from the engine bay side to take up any slack. Mount the S2 fuse holder to the sheet metal

near the hood hinge and reinstall the weather-stripping. Make sure the loom is near the foam by the hood hinge, and re install the window

shroud and wiper assemblies.

Now take the power lead from the loom and connect it to the power distribution plate in the fuse & relay center. Take the black ground lead

and attach it to the black ground right in front of the fuse & relay center. Now place the two relays in the empty space in the relay center

and attach with the Velcro provided in the S2 kit. Close the fuse & relay center cover. Because of the size of the loom, you may need to

modify the opening on the cover to make it fit properly.

Route the loom behind the fuse & relay center, down the side of the fender, behind the driver’s side headlamp. Don’t worry about securing

the loom just yet. You should have loose wiring near the PCM. You are about to splice into the connectors for the PCM. Please note that you

have to be EXTREMELY careful and take your time with this portion of the install. If you make a mistake, you will have downtime and

several $$ out of your pocket. That being said, get your 1/16” and 3/32” drill bits out, a pin vise or a drill if you have confidence in

your drilling precision.

Take the BLACK PCM connector and CAREFULLY cut the electrical tape away from the back of the plastic connector and tip of the

wiring loom. Now we have to take off the cover for the PCM. You will need small and large flathead screwdrivers to take the cover off.

If you break off the retaining tabs, don’t worry the S2 kit has 3 replacements. With the PCM shroud off, you should be able to see the

wiring and a numbering system. We need to drill through the top of the connector in slots 10 and 16 of this connector. Make sure you drill

extremely slow, and right in the middle of the slot. Don’t go past the black plastic. If you’re not 100% on, you risk damaging adjacent

wires. Now if you have done it correctly, you will see white silicone with a pinhole in it. The slot is still obstructed however, Use the

1/16” drill bit and push it through the backside and look at the front. You should see a black plastic pin coming out of the connector.

Remove it. Now pull the red retaining clip on the bottom over to one side. If you don’t, any wires you try to insert will be obstructed, as

this is the wiring lock that holds everything in place. Now we are ready to insert the wiring. Find the green and yellow/black wires. The

green wire goes in the #10 slot and the yellow/black wire goes in the #16 slot. Push them down until you hear them click. Slide the red

wiring lock back into place and put the PCM shroud back on the connector. Use electrical tape and tape around the end of the shroud and

first 1 ½” or so of loom. Then move onto the ORANGE PCM connector.

Carefully repeat the steps listed above for the shroud removal, wire unlock, and proceed to drill out the #22 slot. Find the gray wire and

insert it here. Lock the wires in place, replace shroud, and tape up. Move on to the WHITE connector.

Carefully repeat the steps listed above for the shroud removal, wire unlock, and proceed to drill out the #2 and #14 slots. Find the

yellow/red wire and white wire. Put the yellow/red wire in the #2 slot. Put the white wire in the #14 slot. Lock the wires in place, replace

shroud, and tape up.

Now reconnect all the connectors to the PCM and press the red tabs to lock them in place. Make sure they are all firmly in place. Use

electrical tape and zip ties and secure the loom from the PCM to the fuse & relay box making sure to keep it away from the cold air opening

for the airbox.

This is where my install stops. I didn’t install the intercooler sprayer portion of the kit just yet as I may want to run a separate tank

out of the trunk. I just haven’t made up my mind yet. For the meantime, I taped up the connector for the water pump and put the loom in a

zip lock baggie. I tucked it in a hole behind the driver’s side headlamp.

I reinstalled the airbox, cold air pipe, and made sure to put the wiring harnesses back in place (locking push tabs).

S2 pulls like a madman in dial-a-boost 2 and 3. Oh an HOM doesn’t suck either. Now I have to relearn how to drive the car. :eveilgrin

Traction issues!

3,692 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks! It took a ton of time to write up, but it's all good. I get asked all the time about it so I decided to post it up finally. Here you go boys/girls!!

1,013 Posts
Thank you for the great write up. I just ordered mine last week and this is going to make the install that much easier. You rock.

1,070 Posts
Awesome how-to! rated 5-stars!

134 Posts
VERY NICE JOB on the write-up. This will soon be required reading.

3,692 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
BlueSRTAndy said:
Is there any update on your IC sprayer install?
Nope. I still haven't decided how I want to do it yet. I orginally planned one one larger tank to hold water/meth mix for both the IC sprayer and WI. Plans for the car are ever changing so until I say screw it and just install it, no updates man. Sorry duder. I will update when I do however.

Thanks for all the props as well guys! :thumbsup:

84 Posts
The install went well this morning, the how-to really helped a lot.

Send me your paypal address, I'd like to buy you a beer and a shot for your trouble.


3,692 Posts
Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
reechwuzhere said:
The install went well this morning, the how-to really helped a lot.

Send me your paypal address, I'd like to buy you a beer and a shot for your trouble.

I'm glad all went well. As far as the beer and shot goes, maybe if I ever get to your neck of the woods, I'll take you up on that. :thumbsup: I've used a bunch of information from the forums in the past and I'm glad that I can add to the community. So no payment needed duder. If you do feel obligated though, on your next porting purchase, see what I can do for you, ok? me and I'll do what I can for you.
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dave gregory
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