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Normally my write-ups are more detailed than this, but because of the complexity of the install, I didn't take pictures. Some people have said that it can be done by simply unbolting the tranny mount and jacking it up high enough to get access to the differential cover, however I could not see how it would work.
First I want to thank xmdfmk7x for several ideas, suggestions and help with some of the details :thumbsup:
For the install, you will need several special tools.
- dead blow hammer or brass drift and a hammer
- vice
- arbor press (Preferred)
- toaster over (If you don't have a press)
- dial or beam style torque wrench. Something to easily tell a difference between 20 and 30 inch pounds.
- 2-tong gear puller
- heavy duty torque wrench (able to measure 175 ft/lbs)
- axle socket (32mm if I remember correctly)
- picklefork/balljoint puller
- pitman arm puller (for pulling tie-rods)
- bearing race driver (can do without it)
- small tailpipe expander
You'll also need the usual
- Sockets
- wrenches
- impact wrench or breaker bar
- screwdrivers
- pliers
- channel locks
I recommend you get a copy of the FSM, because there are a few things that are very specific that I will probably forget. That being said, lets get started.
1. Drain your tranny fluid
2. Remove your battery
3. remove your battery tray
4. remove the nut closest to the firewall that holds the shifter cable bracket onto the tranny. You only need to remove the furthest one back.
5. Fix the steering wheel so it cannot turn. Get some string, and tie it around the driver seat adjuster bar and tie the other end around the steering wheel. Do this on the other side as well. the tension on both sides will prevent it from turning.*** It is imperative that the steering wheel cannot turn ***
6. get under the dash, and pull the pin on the steering universal joint. Then remove the pinch bolt. Separate the steering shaft from the universal joint.
7. Set the e-brake, and jack up the front end of the car as high as you can. Put some jackstands on the side of the car, behind the front wheel well.
8. Take off the tires
9. Take off the brake rotor, tie up the caliper to the coil spring.
10. Remove the axle nut by removing the cotter pin, removing the wave washer, and using an impact wrench on the axle socket. You may need to have a buddy press the brakes to keep the wheel from turning.
11. Remove the nuts on the tie-rod, then pull it off the knuckle using a proper puller. *** Do not hit the threads to knock it out of the socket ***
12. remove the ball joint pinch bolt.
13. remove both bolts holding the knuckle onto the strut.
14. Carefully (the boot tears easily) remove the steering knuckle. You'll need to carefully pull the driveshaft out of the knuckle.
15. Remove both driveshafts.
16. Remove intermediate shaft
17. remove power steering holder lines on the charge pipe
18. Remove charge pipe
19. Undo both screws holding the power steering cooler onto the crossmember.
20. remove the power steering pressure switch on the rack. unclip the O2 sensor wire from the crossmember
21. Get a jack and center it under the crossmember
22. With a permanent marker, trace where the rear crossmember bolts to the body.
23. Remove passenger side splash shield.
24. Remove the lower engine mount and pencil strut.
25. remove the 4 (very large) bolts and lower it as far as possible. Watch the universal joint, and watch the power steering lines.
26. unclip the speedo wire, then remove the extension housing from the passenger side of the tranny.
27. Take a very long zip-tie (or daisy chan several together) and feed it through the differential. Wrap it around the outside of the housing and pull it as tight as possible. This will prevent the differential from falling out, landing on your middle finger, requiring a trip to urgent care because you split a knuckle open (Don't ask :stab
28. Remove all of the bolts on the differential housing, there is a "hidden" one on the top right, near where the shifter cables are. Two are studs that hold the impact housing, on the bottom of the housing.
29. Remove the housing/differential.
30. Clean off the magnet in the diff part of the tranny (bottom right side)
31. Go to a clean workspace, cut the zip-tie. Remove all the gears and differential.
32. Take off the old ring gear. Best way is with a press, if you don't have one, use a brass drift or use a dead-blow hammer and pound around the circumference of the ring gear. Probably want to have a cloth for it to "fall" on when you get it clear.
33. Repeat #32 if you bought a used diff that has a ring gear on it. You can't use the ring gear from the "new" one.
34. if the bearings and races are good on both your old races and the bearings on the new diff are ok, then skip the next 2 steps.
35. If your new diff has damaged bearings, pull them off using a two-tong gear puller.
36. If you have a new diff, or you pulled off the old bearings, press on the new bearings. If you don't have a press, put the diff in a plastic bag and put in the freezer for a few hours. Then take the new bearings, and put them in your toaster over for 200*F for a few minutes. Then take the hot bearing, and put on the cold housing. You'll still need to pound it on using the old bearing and/or a piece of wood.
37. clean out the old housing, then assemble the diff making sure the slinger is the right way. lube up the new bearings and zip tie it all together.
38. Clean off the mounting surfaces on the tranny
39. Bolt it back together, cut the zip tie.
40. Take your shim and put in the passenger side, then bolt on the speedo housing.
41. Insert the tailpipe expander in the passenger side, then expand it inside where the axle shaft goes. Set the bearings by rotating it back and forth a few times.
42. Measure the turning torque. You want between 20 and 30 inch pounds in both directions. Too much torque? Use a thinner shim, and vice versa.
43. When it's all good to go, unbolt the housing using the zip-tie like before.
44. Press on your old ring gear, or use the hot/cold method using the toaster. Use your old bolts to pull the ring gear on, never going more than 70 ft/lbs. You are probably going to need to wedge the diff in a vice to hold it.
45. Remove the old bolts from the diff and bolt up the new ones, making sure you torque it correctly. Bolt it up in a star pattern so you don't crack/warp it. Do not use the old bolts.
46. for the last time zip tie the diff housing and apply the mopar anaerobic sealer to the mounting side of the diff cover. Bolt it all up. Apply the sealant to the speedo housing and bolt it up.
47. Add fluid to the tranny and (if you want, FM) to the tranny. I didn't though as the quaife doesn't need it.
At this point, work backwards. raise, bolt up the crossmember, reattach the charge pipe, intermediuate shaft, axles, tie rods, rotors, calipers and axle bolts. With the tires on, and the car sitting on the ground under its own weight, reattach the steering universal joint, and bolt up the pinch bolt. Insert the pin as well.
I'm sure I missed quite a few things, but this is the basics. It's quite a difficult and time-consuming install, if you can afford it, pay someone :readclose
First I want to thank xmdfmk7x for several ideas, suggestions and help with some of the details :thumbsup:
For the install, you will need several special tools.
- dead blow hammer or brass drift and a hammer
- vice
- arbor press (Preferred)
- toaster over (If you don't have a press)
- dial or beam style torque wrench. Something to easily tell a difference between 20 and 30 inch pounds.
- 2-tong gear puller
- heavy duty torque wrench (able to measure 175 ft/lbs)
- axle socket (32mm if I remember correctly)
- picklefork/balljoint puller
- pitman arm puller (for pulling tie-rods)
- bearing race driver (can do without it)
- small tailpipe expander
You'll also need the usual
- Sockets
- wrenches
- impact wrench or breaker bar
- screwdrivers
- pliers
- channel locks
I recommend you get a copy of the FSM, because there are a few things that are very specific that I will probably forget. That being said, lets get started.
1. Drain your tranny fluid
2. Remove your battery
3. remove your battery tray
4. remove the nut closest to the firewall that holds the shifter cable bracket onto the tranny. You only need to remove the furthest one back.
5. Fix the steering wheel so it cannot turn. Get some string, and tie it around the driver seat adjuster bar and tie the other end around the steering wheel. Do this on the other side as well. the tension on both sides will prevent it from turning.*** It is imperative that the steering wheel cannot turn ***
6. get under the dash, and pull the pin on the steering universal joint. Then remove the pinch bolt. Separate the steering shaft from the universal joint.
7. Set the e-brake, and jack up the front end of the car as high as you can. Put some jackstands on the side of the car, behind the front wheel well.
8. Take off the tires
9. Take off the brake rotor, tie up the caliper to the coil spring.
10. Remove the axle nut by removing the cotter pin, removing the wave washer, and using an impact wrench on the axle socket. You may need to have a buddy press the brakes to keep the wheel from turning.
11. Remove the nuts on the tie-rod, then pull it off the knuckle using a proper puller. *** Do not hit the threads to knock it out of the socket ***
12. remove the ball joint pinch bolt.
13. remove both bolts holding the knuckle onto the strut.
14. Carefully (the boot tears easily) remove the steering knuckle. You'll need to carefully pull the driveshaft out of the knuckle.
15. Remove both driveshafts.
16. Remove intermediate shaft
17. remove power steering holder lines on the charge pipe
18. Remove charge pipe
19. Undo both screws holding the power steering cooler onto the crossmember.
20. remove the power steering pressure switch on the rack. unclip the O2 sensor wire from the crossmember
21. Get a jack and center it under the crossmember
22. With a permanent marker, trace where the rear crossmember bolts to the body.
23. Remove passenger side splash shield.
24. Remove the lower engine mount and pencil strut.
25. remove the 4 (very large) bolts and lower it as far as possible. Watch the universal joint, and watch the power steering lines.
26. unclip the speedo wire, then remove the extension housing from the passenger side of the tranny.
27. Take a very long zip-tie (or daisy chan several together) and feed it through the differential. Wrap it around the outside of the housing and pull it as tight as possible. This will prevent the differential from falling out, landing on your middle finger, requiring a trip to urgent care because you split a knuckle open (Don't ask :stab
28. Remove all of the bolts on the differential housing, there is a "hidden" one on the top right, near where the shifter cables are. Two are studs that hold the impact housing, on the bottom of the housing.
29. Remove the housing/differential.
30. Clean off the magnet in the diff part of the tranny (bottom right side)
31. Go to a clean workspace, cut the zip-tie. Remove all the gears and differential.
32. Take off the old ring gear. Best way is with a press, if you don't have one, use a brass drift or use a dead-blow hammer and pound around the circumference of the ring gear. Probably want to have a cloth for it to "fall" on when you get it clear.
33. Repeat #32 if you bought a used diff that has a ring gear on it. You can't use the ring gear from the "new" one.
34. if the bearings and races are good on both your old races and the bearings on the new diff are ok, then skip the next 2 steps.
35. If your new diff has damaged bearings, pull them off using a two-tong gear puller.
36. If you have a new diff, or you pulled off the old bearings, press on the new bearings. If you don't have a press, put the diff in a plastic bag and put in the freezer for a few hours. Then take the new bearings, and put them in your toaster over for 200*F for a few minutes. Then take the hot bearing, and put on the cold housing. You'll still need to pound it on using the old bearing and/or a piece of wood.
37. clean out the old housing, then assemble the diff making sure the slinger is the right way. lube up the new bearings and zip tie it all together.
38. Clean off the mounting surfaces on the tranny
39. Bolt it back together, cut the zip tie.
40. Take your shim and put in the passenger side, then bolt on the speedo housing.
41. Insert the tailpipe expander in the passenger side, then expand it inside where the axle shaft goes. Set the bearings by rotating it back and forth a few times.
42. Measure the turning torque. You want between 20 and 30 inch pounds in both directions. Too much torque? Use a thinner shim, and vice versa.
43. When it's all good to go, unbolt the housing using the zip-tie like before.
44. Press on your old ring gear, or use the hot/cold method using the toaster. Use your old bolts to pull the ring gear on, never going more than 70 ft/lbs. You are probably going to need to wedge the diff in a vice to hold it.
45. Remove the old bolts from the diff and bolt up the new ones, making sure you torque it correctly. Bolt it up in a star pattern so you don't crack/warp it. Do not use the old bolts.
46. for the last time
zip tie the diff housing and apply the mopar anaerobic sealer to the mounting side of the diff cover. Bolt it all up. Apply the sealant to the speedo housing and bolt it up.47. Add fluid to the tranny and (if you want, FM) to the tranny. I didn't though as the quaife doesn't need it.
At this point, work backwards. raise, bolt up the crossmember, reattach the charge pipe, intermediuate shaft, axles, tie rods, rotors, calipers and axle bolts. With the tires on, and the car sitting on the ground under its own weight, reattach the steering universal joint, and bolt up the pinch bolt. Insert the pin as well.
I'm sure I missed quite a few things, but this is the basics. It's quite a difficult and time-consuming install, if you can afford it, pay someone :readclose
