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Ok first I wanna say if you have the extra money I personally would grab the PTP kit as it saves a bunch of time and its a really nice kit. I didnt have the extra money plus I had the most expensive items already laying around and I am a DIY kinda guy.
Here is the stuff used for the rewire:
*extra fuel pump connector-source from dodge or junkyard(2000-up)
*30 amp universal relay
*30 amp inline fuse holder-blade style used
*Universal relay harness-napa part number ech ec23
*10 gauge power wire-10ft roll should be fine for this write up mounting location
*10 gauge ground wire-10ft roll is plenty
*14 gauge wire-2.5ft of red and 2.5ft of black
*T-tap connectors 14-16 gauge should be fine, its what i used with no issues
*2 eye connectors for 10 gauge, make sure eye is big enough to fit around bolt
*Solder and soldering gun
*Heat shrink tube-16-10 gauge sizes
*Wire Loom to cover wire coming from alternator
*electrical tape
*zip ties
Tools:
*Jack and Jack stands
*10mm wrench or ratchet/socket
*14mm wrench or ratchet/socket
*Wire cutters/Strippers/crimpers
*Soldering gun and solder
*needle nose pliers
*really small flathead screwdriver
*phillips head screwdriver
*heat gun
Alright I think thats all I used. I will edit if I remember something. Ok here we go and please any questions or comments please just speak up.
Lets start with some pre assembly of the harnesses. We will start with the power wire from the alternator to relay.
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*take your 10ga power wire and 1 eye connector, crimp the eye connector to one end of the wire, cover with heat shrink tube, then electrical tape.
*location of inline fuse should be as close to the power source as possible. I took power wire and cut about 1ft from eye connector and solder on the inline fuse to both ends of the power wire. Make sure you put the heat shrink tube on before soldering ends together.
*take your wire loom and cover the entire length of the power wire, taping the loom closed every few inches with electrical tape. You can remove excess loom if needed later on.
That should take care of pre assembling the power wire harness.
Now lets pre assemble the fuel pump connector harness
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*Start by taking your fuel pump connector, removing the blue retaining plug, gently prying on the grey prongs and remove the two middle wires(blue wire and grn/blk wire). After doing that put the blue retaining plug back in.
*Strip bare the ends of the two remaining wires(grn/wht and black). Take the red and black 14 gauge wires, strip the ends of each, slide on heat shrink tube to each. Solder the 14 gauge wires to the leads coming off the fuel pump connector, heat shrink and tape up. Red 14ga to grn/wht wire and black 14ga to black wire on connector.
That’s it the fuel pump connector harness is now done.
Now lets start running the wires. This write up is based on mounting the relay under the carpet on the rear passenger side of the car. This allows the use of the factory wire harness plug that is there.
*Unhook your battery using the 10mm wrench or ratchet/socket. Next remove the knut holding your alternator power cable on with the 14mm wrench or ratchet/socket. You can either access this from up top or down below. I came in from the top. If you still have heat shields you may need to remove a couple bolts to allow you to bend the heat shield out of the way. I didn’t need to do this so I don’t have pics.
*now since safety is most important jack up at least the passenger side of your car and place jackstands at the factory locations.
*Take your 10ga power wire harness and put the eye connector on the alternator power bolt on top of the existing power cable, then put the nut back on and tighten down.
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*Run the power wire down the passenger side of the vehicle, tucking it into the existing brackets that are there for the fuel lines. Zip tie where needed.
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*Run the power wire into the cabin of the vehicle via the existing plug for the fuel pump harness. Its best to do this from inside the vehicle. Pop the plug out, take a knife or tool of your choice to poke a hole in the rubber next to the existing wire harness, make two holes, one for power wire and one for fuel pump connector harness. Take a extra piece of wire and put it through one of the holes, slide it through the hole where the plug goes and to the outside of the vehicle. Tape the alt power wire to the extra wire and pull through the plug, repeat for the fuel pump connector harness also
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*Now with both new harnesses ran into the cabin of the vehicle, turn your attention to swapping the two middle wires from the original fuel pump connector to the new rewire fuel pump connector. Take the original connector, remove the blue retaining plug with needle nose pliers, take small screwdriver and gently pry on each grey tab and pull each wire out one at a time. Replace blue retaining plug. Now take the two middle wires you just removed and place them into the rewire plug. No need to remove the blue retaining plug on the rewire connector, they will slide in and click into place just fine. Make sure you put the correct wire in the correct spot. After putting them in give a gentle tug on each wire to make sure they clicked in. Plug rewire connector into fuel pump module. Your now done outside of the car.
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*Now time to connect the alt power wire and fuel pump connector harness to relay. Once again I soldered and heat shrinked all my connections.
I only used one connector and that was the T-tap connector to splice into the wht/grn wire on the factory harness.
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Here is where each wire goes to the relay.
87=fuel pump connector
86=wht/grn wire on factory harness
85=to ground
30=Alt power wire
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now for my universal relay harness I got from napa the wire colors went as follows-red=#30 on relay, yellow=#87 on relay, green=#86 on relay, and blue=#85 on relay. Just make sure you connect your wires from the alt and fuel pump harnesses to the correct corresponding wires on the relay harness.
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*Last to run is the ground for the relay. I went ahead and tied the ground from the relay and fuel pump connector harness into one and then soldered that into the 10gauge ground wire I ran back to the trunk.
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You can put your ground wherever you want, but I chose to put mine at the factory location for the passenger rear taillight as seen in the picture.
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here are a couple finished up pictures of my install.
*relay sitting in its final location. it sits pretty flush to the floor and is protected from the natural bulge in the carpet created by the ebrake cable
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*rewire fuel pump connector and factory fuel pump connector. I wrapped the factory connector in a zip lock bag and electrical tape for protection.
![]()
Here is the stuff used for the rewire:
*extra fuel pump connector-source from dodge or junkyard(2000-up)
*30 amp universal relay
*30 amp inline fuse holder-blade style used
*Universal relay harness-napa part number ech ec23
*10 gauge power wire-10ft roll should be fine for this write up mounting location
*10 gauge ground wire-10ft roll is plenty
*14 gauge wire-2.5ft of red and 2.5ft of black
*T-tap connectors 14-16 gauge should be fine, its what i used with no issues
*2 eye connectors for 10 gauge, make sure eye is big enough to fit around bolt
*Solder and soldering gun
*Heat shrink tube-16-10 gauge sizes
*Wire Loom to cover wire coming from alternator
*electrical tape
*zip ties
Tools:
*Jack and Jack stands
*10mm wrench or ratchet/socket
*14mm wrench or ratchet/socket
*Wire cutters/Strippers/crimpers
*Soldering gun and solder
*needle nose pliers
*really small flathead screwdriver
*phillips head screwdriver
*heat gun
Alright I think thats all I used. I will edit if I remember something. Ok here we go and please any questions or comments please just speak up.
Lets start with some pre assembly of the harnesses. We will start with the power wire from the alternator to relay.
*take your 10ga power wire and 1 eye connector, crimp the eye connector to one end of the wire, cover with heat shrink tube, then electrical tape.
*location of inline fuse should be as close to the power source as possible. I took power wire and cut about 1ft from eye connector and solder on the inline fuse to both ends of the power wire. Make sure you put the heat shrink tube on before soldering ends together.
*take your wire loom and cover the entire length of the power wire, taping the loom closed every few inches with electrical tape. You can remove excess loom if needed later on.
That should take care of pre assembling the power wire harness.
Now lets pre assemble the fuel pump connector harness
*Start by taking your fuel pump connector, removing the blue retaining plug, gently prying on the grey prongs and remove the two middle wires(blue wire and grn/blk wire). After doing that put the blue retaining plug back in.
*Strip bare the ends of the two remaining wires(grn/wht and black). Take the red and black 14 gauge wires, strip the ends of each, slide on heat shrink tube to each. Solder the 14 gauge wires to the leads coming off the fuel pump connector, heat shrink and tape up. Red 14ga to grn/wht wire and black 14ga to black wire on connector.
That’s it the fuel pump connector harness is now done.
Now lets start running the wires. This write up is based on mounting the relay under the carpet on the rear passenger side of the car. This allows the use of the factory wire harness plug that is there.
*Unhook your battery using the 10mm wrench or ratchet/socket. Next remove the knut holding your alternator power cable on with the 14mm wrench or ratchet/socket. You can either access this from up top or down below. I came in from the top. If you still have heat shields you may need to remove a couple bolts to allow you to bend the heat shield out of the way. I didn’t need to do this so I don’t have pics.
*now since safety is most important jack up at least the passenger side of your car and place jackstands at the factory locations.
*Take your 10ga power wire harness and put the eye connector on the alternator power bolt on top of the existing power cable, then put the nut back on and tighten down.
*Run the power wire down the passenger side of the vehicle, tucking it into the existing brackets that are there for the fuel lines. Zip tie where needed.
*Run the power wire into the cabin of the vehicle via the existing plug for the fuel pump harness. Its best to do this from inside the vehicle. Pop the plug out, take a knife or tool of your choice to poke a hole in the rubber next to the existing wire harness, make two holes, one for power wire and one for fuel pump connector harness. Take a extra piece of wire and put it through one of the holes, slide it through the hole where the plug goes and to the outside of the vehicle. Tape the alt power wire to the extra wire and pull through the plug, repeat for the fuel pump connector harness also
*Now with both new harnesses ran into the cabin of the vehicle, turn your attention to swapping the two middle wires from the original fuel pump connector to the new rewire fuel pump connector. Take the original connector, remove the blue retaining plug with needle nose pliers, take small screwdriver and gently pry on each grey tab and pull each wire out one at a time. Replace blue retaining plug. Now take the two middle wires you just removed and place them into the rewire plug. No need to remove the blue retaining plug on the rewire connector, they will slide in and click into place just fine. Make sure you put the correct wire in the correct spot. After putting them in give a gentle tug on each wire to make sure they clicked in. Plug rewire connector into fuel pump module. Your now done outside of the car.
*Now time to connect the alt power wire and fuel pump connector harness to relay. Once again I soldered and heat shrinked all my connections.
I only used one connector and that was the T-tap connector to splice into the wht/grn wire on the factory harness.
Here is where each wire goes to the relay.
87=fuel pump connector
86=wht/grn wire on factory harness
85=to ground
30=Alt power wire
now for my universal relay harness I got from napa the wire colors went as follows-red=#30 on relay, yellow=#87 on relay, green=#86 on relay, and blue=#85 on relay. Just make sure you connect your wires from the alt and fuel pump harnesses to the correct corresponding wires on the relay harness.
*Last to run is the ground for the relay. I went ahead and tied the ground from the relay and fuel pump connector harness into one and then soldered that into the 10gauge ground wire I ran back to the trunk.
You can put your ground wherever you want, but I chose to put mine at the factory location for the passenger rear taillight as seen in the picture.
here are a couple finished up pictures of my install.
*relay sitting in its final location. it sits pretty flush to the floor and is protected from the natural bulge in the carpet created by the ebrake cable
*rewire fuel pump connector and factory fuel pump connector. I wrapped the factory connector in a zip lock bag and electrical tape for protection.
