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Can someone please help me with giving me some basic instructions on how on how to flush the radiator and what coolant should I use when I flush the radiator. Can someone please help me with this, I don't feel like goingt to the dealership or tires plus. Please someone help
 

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1. go to wally world, buy about 15 gallons of distilled water. go to dealership and buy 3 gallons of mopar coolant or go to parts store and get zerex g-05. NOTHING ELSE.

2. put car on jackstands(as high up as you can with the front just a tad lower than the rear)

3. open petcock on bottom pass side of radiator. its a pain. don't use pliers. you will brake it. its hidden in front of the hot side pipe.

4. let fluid drain out completely, while waiting, use a siphon to evacuate the coolant overflow completely.

5. fill tstat cap with water

6. repeat steps 3-5 until the only thing that comes out is clear clean water. you may have to start the car once or twice(only with the system FULL of water) to get the water moving through the heater core. DO NOT START CAR WITH SYSTEM EMPTY OR WITH PETCOCK OPEN.

7. once sure that only water is left, drain all the water and repeat steps 3-5 with coolant ONCE. When you see mostly coolant(little water) coming out of the petcock, close the valve and top off the system with coolant only. fill the reservoir with coolant now too.

8. lower rear of car ONLY. make sure petcock is tightly closed. tstat cap is secure. overflow cap is secure. no tools in the way.

9. start car with heater on feet, full hot, full blast. let idle until car is at normal operating temp. turn car off. let cool down. top off fluids again. start car again with heat on feet full blast, let idle til normal temp. while idling you may notice the temp needle go above the normal line. that's probably just a bubble. you have the front jacked up still to help get the air out. if you want to help it more, grab a 10mm wrench and some bleeder tube, and crack the bleed on the front of the tstat hsg until a steady stream of coolant comes out. that helps get a lot of air out of the system. once satisfied that there is no air, and you're all topped off, lower the front end and take it for a spin. make sure everything is working as it should be. then you're all done. it takes a few hours to do it this way.

there is a backyard way too. but i won't post that here. if you want to know, pm me. that way only takes an hour.
 

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You can get the coolant from Valvoline Oil Change places too.
That is where I bought mine since the auto stores around here don't carry it.
It cost me half at the price from the Valvoline location then getting it from the dealership.


BTW... there is a "How-To" in the "How-To" Section and somewhere in the later pages I mentioned what size socket to put over the petcock, it will make your day much better if you use a socket to unscrew it.
:thumbsup:


(edit) oh btw, screw buying so much distilled water to flush it, Just plug the freaking hose into it and make sure the heater is turned on also so it flushes out the heater core. Run the water till you are pissing clear. DO use Distilled water for your coolant mix though!
 

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The coolant itself says it provides protection for 5 years/150,000 miles. I'm sure most people change it more often than that though.

Here's the other how to: http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f75/how-coolant-flush-standard-drain-188649/

Also, the whole system only holds about 8 quarts so all you need is a gallon of the coolant and a gallon of distilled water. I would also recommend putting some water wetter in there as well. :thumbsup:
 

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1. go to wally world, buy about 15 gallons of distilled water. go to dealership and buy 3 gallons of mopar coolant or go to parts store and get zerex g-05. NOTHING ELSE.

2. put car on jackstands(as high up as you can with the front just a tad lower than the rear)

3. open petcock on bottom pass side of radiator. its a pain. don't use pliers. you will brake it. its hidden in front of the hot side pipe.

4. let fluid drain out completely, while waiting, use a siphon to evacuate the coolant overflow completely.

5. fill tstat cap with water

6. repeat steps 3-5 until the only thing that comes out is clear clean water. you may have to start the car once or twice(only with the system FULL of water) to get the water moving through the heater core. DO NOT START CAR WITH SYSTEM EMPTY OR WITH PETCOCK OPEN.

7. once sure that only water is left, drain all the water and repeat steps 3-5 with coolant ONCE. When you see mostly coolant(little water) coming out of the petcock, close the valve and top off the system with coolant only. fill the reservoir with coolant now too.

8. lower rear of car ONLY. make sure petcock is tightly closed. tstat cap is secure. overflow cap is secure. no tools in the way.

9. start car with heater on feet, full hot, full blast. let idle until car is at normal operating temp. turn car off. let cool down. top off fluids again. start car again with heat on feet full blast, let idle til normal temp. while idling you may notice the temp needle go above the normal line. that's probably just a bubble. you have the front jacked up still to help get the air out. if you want to help it more, grab a 10mm wrench and some bleeder tube, and crack the bleed on the front of the tstat hsg until a steady stream of coolant comes out. that helps get a lot of air out of the system. once satisfied that there is no air, and you're all topped off, lower the front end and take it for a spin. make sure everything is working as it should be. then you're all done. it takes a few hours to do it this way.

there is a backyard way too. but i won't post that here. if you want to know, pm me. that way only takes an hour.

How is this method possible to obtain a for sure 50/50 mix?
 

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1. go to wally world, buy about 15 gallons of distilled water. go to dealership and buy 3 gallons of mopar coolant or go to parts store and get zerex g-05. NOTHING ELSE.

2. put car on jackstands(as high up as you can with the front just a tad lower than the rear)

3. open petcock on bottom pass side of radiator. its a pain. don't use pliers. you will brake it. its hidden in front of the hot side pipe.

4. let fluid drain out completely, while waiting, use a siphon to evacuate the coolant overflow completely.

5. fill tstat cap with water

6. repeat steps 3-5 until the only thing that comes out is clear clean water. you may have to start the car once or twice(only with the system FULL of water) to get the water moving through the heater core. DO NOT START CAR WITH SYSTEM EMPTY OR WITH PETCOCK OPEN.

7. once sure that only water is left, drain all the water and repeat steps 3-5 with coolant ONCE. When you see mostly coolant(little water) coming out of the petcock, close the valve and top off the system with coolant only. fill the reservoir with coolant now too.

8. lower rear of car ONLY. make sure petcock is tightly closed. tstat cap is secure. overflow cap is secure. no tools in the way.

9. start car with heater on feet, full hot, full blast. let idle until car is at normal operating temp. turn car off. let cool down. top off fluids again. start car again with heat on feet full blast, let idle til normal temp. while idling you may notice the temp needle go above the normal line. that's probably just a bubble. you have the front jacked up still to help get the air out. if you want to help it more, grab a 10mm wrench and some bleeder tube, and crack the bleed on the front of the tstat hsg until a steady stream of coolant comes out. that helps get a lot of air out of the system. once satisfied that there is no air, and you're all topped off, lower the front end and take it for a spin. make sure everything is working as it should be. then you're all done. it takes a few hours to do it this way.

there is a backyard way too. but i won't post that here. if you want to know, pm me. that way only takes an hour.
What's the backyard way
 

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Difficult to say what that meant all these years later. Perhaps it meant sucking as much coolant out as possible, refilling, then repeating a few times. Or perhaps it was referring to just letting it drain into environment (which can kill animals as it's sweat tasting/smelling and poisonous, so check with your local city/county about hazardous collection locations).

I did a quick scan and that generally looks like the suggested steps to flush the system. With the extra decade or so since the original posts were written, I'd probably add that changing the thermostat with another Mopar unit would likely be recommended. Another thing with age is that the cooling module (intercooler, air conditioning condenser and radiator) may be clogged with road grime and debris. If you ever have to remove the cooling fans or replace one of those components, power washing to clean the cooling fins in the cores can increase efficiency (just be careful not to pressure wash the fans which could get water in the motors and kill them).
 
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