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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I was just curious on how many of you people have custom exhausts that like a shop made, or a private fabricator, etc made for your car? How do you like them? Have any of you ditched them for a vendor's exhaust?

I'm just confused on whether to pay like a third of the money for a custom exhaust, or to pay 3 times as much for a quality, dyno tested and company designed unit for the SRT-4, when the private shops or builders are looking at the SRT-4 for the first time ..

Any comments will be much appreciated!

Chris.
 

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I think custom places are the way to go. Jean and nivo were the 1st in MA. to do theres. I was the 2nd. Now many have this custom exhaust in.

If they do the mandrel bending, then your all set! you can choose SS or alumized. And your exhaust tips. :D
 

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I fabbed a bdj style with a twister for around 280 installed. dyno proven? 265/292 with mods below WGA raises NOT SPIKES to 19 and tapers to 15-16 at redline.

The absolute biggest restriction is the turbine side, the housing, the o2 housing, and the tiny 2.25 :gay: inch exhaust. Any exhaust that you can have mandrel bent with 3" inch will yield gains. Especially once you take the ECU out of the boost equation.
 

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XLR8 said:
I fabbed my own and I'm happy with it.

werd.

I have a 36" piece of steel as my exhaust with an 02 bung welded in. Loud as shit, but the turbo spools up real nice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Really? That's awesome guys. Yeah this guy I'm talking with says he really likes the B&B design so he'll try his best to reproduce that, and he quoted me for around $400 without high-flow cat, $450 with cat, and around $480 SS with cat. this is without an O2 housing though, so I'd have to buy one. And it's mandrel bent 3" with 4" polished tips. So sounds like a damn good deal.

He was asking me all questions like slip-fit or flanged, sprung slip fit or u-bolt .. I dunno .. What does everyone else have? What O2 housing should I buy? And is there a difference in sound loudness with SS or aluminized, etc? I want a cat so i don't want it to be THAT loud. My Welfare exhaust dump now is loud but people say 3" exhaust even WITH cat is louder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Bump for the evening crew ..
 

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I also have a mandrel bent custom 3" cat-back exhaust. I got it done for 325 over here in cali. I am really happy with it, im runnin no resonators and it sounds awesome :thumbsup:
 

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custom 3" exhaust

Did my own at my shop. Check my sig for a video of it. 3" w/o cat.
 

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Khryz said:
Really? That's awesome guys. Yeah this guy I'm talking with says he really likes the B&B design so he'll try his best to reproduce that, and he quoted me for around $400 without high-flow cat, $450 with cat, and around $480 SS with cat. this is without an O2 housing though, so I'd have to buy one. And it's mandrel bent 3" with 4" polished tips. So sounds like a damn good deal.

He was asking me all questions like slip-fit or flanged, sprung slip fit or u-bolt .. I dunno .. What does everyone else have? What O2 housing should I buy? And is there a difference in sound loudness with SS or aluminized, etc? I want a cat so i don't want it to be THAT loud. My Welfare exhaust dump now is loud but people say 3" exhaust even WITH cat is louder.
  • Go with stainless.
  • Use flanges. Don't use ubolt clamps or you'll never be able to disassemble the system later.
  • Get a MAXX Fab housing:lol:
  • No sound differnce between aluminized and stainless
Most good shops can do a nice job. The systems you buy usually look cleaner, and don't have near the amount of welds a shop made system will have (therfore less chance of cracking later on down the road)....that's one of the things you're paying for when you buy a system from a vendor. Plus the cost of marketing, building the jigs, etc. All the exhaust shop has to do is use your car as a jig and tack one together.

You will run into droning issues with a 3 inch system like the B&B, even with a cat. I reccomend a resonator or bullet muffler in the intermediate pipe to help take the harshness out of it.

I gotta stop shooting myself in the foot like this......................
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
scottmech said:
  • Go with stainless.
  • Use flanges. Don't use ubolt clamps or you'll never be able to disassemble the system later.
  • Get a MAXX Fab housing:lol:
  • No sound differnce between aluminized and stainless
Most good shops can do a nice job. The systems you buy usually look cleaner, and don't have near the amount of welds a shop made system will have (therfore less chance of cracking later on down the road)....that's one of the things you're paying for when you buy a system from a vendor. Plus the cost of marketing, building the jigs, etc. All the exhaust shop has to do is use your car as a jig and tack one together.

You will run into droning issues with a 3 inch system like the B&B, even with a cat. I reccomend a resonator or bullet muffler in the intermediate pipe to help take the harshness out of it.

I gotta stop shooting myself in the foot like this......................
Okay, so go with flanges .. What other vendor's exhaust's use flanges?
Your O2 housing huh, Lol.

And what do you mean by "droning" issues. I have the Welfare Exhaust Dump now, how much different will it be than that? And how much usually would it be for this guy to add a resonator? I don't wanna lose power though ..
 

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hey bud i custom built my exhaust(i work at an exhaust shop) using the 3"ss pipe honestly if u use clamps on it u run a chance of exhaust leaks and so on........as far as flanges thats up to u as far as my opinion and my car its all welded (best way to go)i mean if your doing this its not lijke your gonna want to take it off anytime soon.mine dumps out right behind the LRtire and sounds damn good.and only took 3welds.for the 02housing i used a spark plug fowler(can get this at an auto parts store) drilled the center out with a 1/2inch drill bit and welded it in the pipe where the 02 would have gone if the cat was their, this will keep your engine light from coming on. as far as parts i only paid like $60 for the pipe($40),spark plug fowler($5),flex pipe($15)the only thing that was a pain in the but was fabricating the flange, but i made a stencil for next time so personally i would only charge like$130 for the down pipe w/o2 housing, $100 for the 3"pipe installed, i wouldnt pay this that amount. hell thats like $340.00 in labor way over priced.
 

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Khryz said:
Okay, so go with flanges .. What other vendor's exhaust's use flanges?
Your O2 housing huh, Lol.

And what do you mean by "droning" issues. I have the Welfare Exhaust Dump now, how much different will it be than that? And how much usually would it be for this guy to add a resonator? I don't wanna lose power though ..
Flanges work a little better for keeping the system aligned once it's on the car. Since he's building it to match your car, alignment should be perfect, and with the flanges, you'll never have to worry about the system slipping here or there.

I think B&B has flanges, DC exhaust, Exhaust depot, Modern performance.....

I use slip joints because it allows me to keep cost down (I make one of the most inexpensive full stainless 3 inch mandrel bent systems for the SRT), and allows adjustments from car to car. But I also use high quality Torca band clamps...exactly the same thing DCX and Borla uses on theor systems....so it's good enough for me. Had my system on my car for months now, and alignment hasn't changed. Torca clamps also allows for easy assembly disassembly as there's only one bolt to tighten per joint, not 2 or 3.

Don't know how the welfare exhaust sounds, so I can't say how it compares to the B&B. A resonator won't hurt performance, just helps trake the harshness out of the system. Probably will cost 50-60 buck for the install. It can also be added later if you find it too loud.
 
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