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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sears tried to convince me to pay $200 bucks to have them install and adjust the bolts when I got my alignment recently. Its just barely out of factory range. How are are the bolts to install? The alignment is still under warranty so if I install the bolt and take it back in - they will readjust it since the tow will go slightly out again. I drive on the the interstate a lot, and I hate even the slightest pull to one side.
 

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ElectricB_SRT-4 said:
Sears tried to convince me to pay $200 bucks to have them install and adjust the bolts when I got my alignment recently. Its just barely out of factory range. How are are the bolts to install? The alignment is still under warranty so if I install the bolt and take it back in - they will readjust it since the tow will go slightly out again. I drive on the the interstate a lot, and I hate even the slightest pull to one side.
Are you on the stock suspension or aftermarket?
 

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ElectricB_SRT-4 said:
Sears tried to convince me to pay $200 bucks to have them install and adjust the bolts when I got my alignment recently. Its just barely out of factory range. How are are the bolts to install? The alignment is still under warranty so if I install the bolt and take it back in - they will readjust it since the tow will go slightly out again. I drive on the the interstate a lot, and I hate even the slightest pull to one side.
They're pretty easy, I just did the rears last night. You do have to know in which direction(+ or -) the alignment is out of spec so the new bolts can be installed properly to give the added adjustment in the right direction.

Install video
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
duster360 said:
ElectricB_SRT-4 said:
Sears tried to convince me to pay $200 bucks to have them install and adjust the bolts when I got my alignment recently. Its just barely out of factory range. How are are the bolts to install? The alignment is still under warranty so if I install the bolt and take it back in - they will readjust it since the tow will go slightly out again. I drive on the the interstate a lot, and I hate even the slightest pull to one side.
They're pretty easy, I just did the rears last night. You do have to know in which direction(+ or -) the alignment is out of spec so the new bolts can be installed properly to give the added adjustment in the right direction.

Install video
I have the print out from Sears that shows all that, though im not completely sure what to make out of it. If I install the bolts, Sears will do the adjusting for free or so the associate says.
 

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those camber numbers are very bad.

the install is easy, remove one bolt, install another. then an alignment after that.
 

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it's the difference in camber left/right that concerns me. why does one side have good camber (left) while one side is on the very wrong side of what you'd want (right). If the right side can be matched to what the left is, the car will be set up very nicely. You never, EVER, want positive camber unless it's on the left side of a circle track racer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
stowaway said:
it's the difference in camber left/right that concerns me. why does one side have good camber (left) while one side is on the very wrong side of what you'd want (right). If the right side can be matched to what the left is, the car will be set up very nicely. You never, EVER, want positive camber unless it's on the left side of a circle track racer.
because of a rim bending pot hole
 

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stowaway said:
it's the difference in camber left/right .
This is called "Cross camber" and yes its slightly(.2 degrees) out of spec

stowaway said:
why does one side have good camber (left) while one side is on the very wrong side of what you'd want (right). If the right side can be matched to what the left is, the car will be set up very nicely. You never, EVER, want positive camber unless it's on the left side of a circle track racer.
very often more positive camber is put on the left to help offset the natural pull of the curved road surface so that a car will track properly down the road.
So if the rt and lt had exactly the same camber, thecar would pull to the right a bit.

If your not road racing or autocrossing, any alignment within specs is fine. So a +.3 lt and a -.2rt w/ a cross camber of .5 is fine, even though its less than perfect
 

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and people bitch about wearing the outside of their tires out............

factory alignment specs suck. Dr. Who posted years ago that he wanted completely different factory alignment specs but was shot down by the higher-ups. -1° ± .5° all around with a max cross camber of .5° is what should be ran on damn near any street driven SRT-4. Those that autocross or road race regularly will want more negative camber but anyone running 0° is bound to have some abnormal tire wear unless all they do is drag race and take all turns at the recommended by the yellow sign speeds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
stowaway said:
and people bitch about wearing the outside of their tires out............

factory alignment specs suck. Dr. Who posted years ago that he wanted completely different factory alignment specs but was shot down by the higher-ups. -1° ± .5° all around with a max cross camber of .5° is what should be ran on damn near any street driven SRT-4. Those that autocross or road race regularly will want more negative camber but anyone running 0° is bound to have some abnormal tire wear unless all they do is drag race and take all turns at the recommended by the yellow sign speeds.

Ok so this isn't helping!

HAHA - I need to know what camber I need for normal street use - highway use. I don't race, and I don't take 25mph on-ramps at 80 (I'm not an idiot).
 
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