[letxen3]

Hello, wanted to finally post this since I am running out of ideas.

I have a 2004 PT Cruiser GT manual with 175,085 miles.

Here are some things major items that have been replaced in past a lot of things are still factory:
~Timing belt: 96k 07- 2004
~Alternator: 146k 12-2017

On Jan 12 2021 at 175,064 miles the fuel pump fuse blew, put on a new fuse and have been able to drive it around after wards. Right before the fuel pump fuse blew, I experienced a slight high idle in neutral not moving. rpms were at about 1200 rpm.
After the fuel pump fuse issue, I now noticed the rpm’s would stick while driving at 4000 rpm when I put the manual gear in neutral while moving. Then they would come down to 1100 rpm when I come to a stop.
Also noticed if I put the A/C in on position the rpm’s do settle down to normal range 800 rpm. At idle and while driving them settle down faster.
I don’t have any engine codes.
I proceeded with the following below repairs and cleanings and I am still experiencing the same.
1. changed plugs, wires, and coil pack.
2. cleaned throttle body
3. replaced the Idle Air Control Valve from a utube vid I saw someone had similar issue but didn’t fix my issue. 3-13-21 175,085 miles

I have done a vacuum gauge test and without a/c the vacuum is within range (Normal Motor 18-22 inHg), but when I turn the a/c on the vacuum falls in the range of 15 psi inHg (13 -17 inHg is improper idle mixture/ Lateing Timing)
I have checked the fuel trims and they are normal. I checked the o2 voltage readings and they are normal also, up and down (.2 - .7 v). Though when I turn a/c on they do move up and down like normal but with more of a weird pattern.
The throttle cables seem normal.
Also note sure if related but I have a second issue which is when I turn my key the motor clicks and no starts but it will start on the second try. Battery seems ok I need to take it to get tested but I got it 08-25-19 165,900.

Pending things, I will try is to swap out my throttle body. What I have on now is from an automatic pt which is bigger. I still have my original smaller throttle body I can change to and see if it’s the issue.
Also my lower intake manifold gasket is original someone said that a vacuum leak there could be the issue too, so I will try to check that and while I’m at it inspect the fuel injectors.

Thanks any input you guys may have let me know. I also purchased a fuel pump incase it was on its way out since I blew the fuse, the pump now is original and I heard life span of a factory fuel pump is 175k which is where I’m at.

~James Stage 1 2004 PT GT

 

[lilviper]

Hello, wanted to finally post this since I am running out of ideas.

I have a 2004 PT Cruiser GT manual with 175,085 miles.

Here are some things major items that have been replaced in past a lot of things are still factory:
~Timing belt: 96k 07- 2004
~Alternator: 146k 12-2017

On Jan 12 2021 at 175,064 miles the fuel pump fuse blew, put on a new fuse and have been able to drive it around after wards. Right before the fuel pump fuse blew, I experienced a slight high idle in neutral not moving. rpms were at about 1200 rpm.
After the fuel pump fuse issue, I now noticed the rpm’s would stick while driving at 4000 rpm when I put the manual gear in neutral while moving. Then they would come down to 1100 rpm when I come to a stop.
Also noticed if I put the A/C in on position the rpm’s do settle down to normal range 800 rpm. At idle and while driving them settle down faster.
I don’t have any engine codes.
I proceeded with the following below repairs and cleanings and I am still experiencing the same.
1. changed plugs, wires, and coil pack.
2. cleaned throttle body
3. replaced the Idle Air Control Valve from a utube vid I saw someone had similar issue but didn’t fix my issue. 3-13-21 175,085 miles

I have done a vacuum gauge test and without a/c the vacuum is within range (Normal Motor 18-22 inHg), but when I turn the a/c on the vacuum falls in the range of 15 psi inHg (13 -17 inHg is improper idle mixture/ Lateing Timing)
I have checked the fuel trims and they are normal. I checked the o2 voltage readings and they are normal also, up and down (.2 - .7 v). Though when I turn a/c on they do move up and down like normal but with more of a weird pattern.
The throttle cables seem normal.
Also note sure if related but I have a second issue which is when I turn my key the motor clicks and no starts but it will start on the second try. Battery seems ok I need to take it to get tested but I got it 08-25-19 165,900.

Pending things, I will try is to swap out my throttle body. What I have on now is from an automatic pt which is bigger. I still have my original smaller throttle body I can change to and see if it’s the issue.
Also my lower intake manifold gasket is original someone said that a vacuum leak there could be the issue too, so I will try to check that and while I’m at it inspect the fuel injectors.

Thanks any input you guys may have let me know. I also purchased a fuel pump incase it was on its way out since I blew the fuse, the pump now is original and I heard life span of a factory fuel pump is 175k which is where I’m at.

~James Stage 1 2004 PT GT

Anytime my car wants to crank forever and not start right away its been the fuel pump, or regulator/filter assembly which are all in the same thing.

High idle can be caused by alot of things... the weirdest one I've ever seen was the loss of VSS input would cause a hang when slowing down. But in the srt, high idle has always been an intake gasket or some other kind of leak in the manifold.

Good luck

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

 

[fixit]

pulling up to a stop sign if the idle is high and then drops.. usually a tps rewire is needed.. if it stays high.. try spraying brake clean around while running .. hit vac hose and intake manifold gasket (all around... if rpm's increase you've found the leak.

for starting.. turn key to run, pause, then start.. sometimes it just takes a second or so to pressurize

 

[lilviper]

Another thing that causes hang idles is a loss of alternator. The ECU will hang the idle while varying the current to the alternator to induce an increase in current. If it sees no change it throws a code.

 

[R/Tony]

pulling up to a stop sign if the idle is high and then drops.. usually a tps rewire is needed

this ☝

period.

 

[AlmightyFork]

this ☝

period.

I don't believe that to be an absolute. For example, it appears to be a common issue with MPx 60mm throttle bodies. I made a write up where I attempt to demonstrate that it's a leak at the throttle plate.